Removing ‘36 1/2 ton truck bed

[Rodney_Hamon]

Acid washed and sanded half a day to remove decades of rust and it got too hot. I’m sure I’m not alone. Will have to resume tomorrow 

[Rodney_Hamon]

The garage is over a 100 again so break time. Just attached the vent and cleaned up primer overspray with some lacquer thinner.  Been layering coats of the wrong color white I got a while back from the Napa auto paint store. It’s all I had left so why not. When I finally figure out a better match I’ll rattle can it with final coat after sanding. Was amazed to see how vulnerable the instrument cluster was with the vent out.  Been slow go with this heat wave here. Also discovered today how bad my windshield frame got. It’s rusted on the inside.  I really don’t want to remove the windshield but I’m alarmed at the damage already.  And...been cleaning up the firewall as it was a mess.  

[Rodney_Hamon]

After getting the bolts loose from that cowl hood hinge support, or whatever it’s called, in the heat, I tried to loosen any bolt/screw holding the windshield frame on. All 6 screws up on top and the 2 bolts holding the bottom are hammered “tight-rusted”.  I’m dumbfounded how it got so bad. It has to be removed. The windshield was in the closed position all these years and it looks like the bottom frame is rusted/cracked right through. Seems to have accelerated in recent months. Damn. 2 days straight of a cocktail of liquid wrench and Pb blaster.  Tomorrow if nothing budges I’ll make that cocktail of acetone and atf.  That hood hinge was interesting in that a thin layer of asphaltum lined the bottom. I guess this was an original method for anti-rust and vibration ?...and it worked after all these years!

[Steve-L]

Nice progress, great pics. 

[Rodney_Hamon]

Thanks for the kind word.  I had no acetone to mix with the atf, so I used lacquer thinner.  Maybe that mixture doesn’t work like the acetone would.  The bolts and screws will not budge... even after a week of constant application, tapping, and trying to put a wrench or visegrip or screw driver to it.  Frustrating, so today I decided to tackle cleaning the seat area better in the cab. After dirt and minor rust removal scratched initials in cursive appeared in the corner of the floor.  Huh ?   Wonder who that was years ago.  

[Rodney_Hamon]

Windshield bolts/screws will not budge after 2 weeks of liq wrench, Pb blast, atf/lacquer thinner. Today I mixed acetone + atf and put it in an empty plastic liquid wrench bottle. The bottle started melting after a while so I transferred that to an even older liquid wrench metal can.  Man.  Maybe that’s the magic combo.  Soaking bolts on the tape bracket bolts with that latest cocktail. Whilst doing that been cleaning the cab floor under the seat.  Sprayed a little rustoleum to protect from further rust. The old battery tray under the seat must have contributed bafoonary to the general area over the years.  This week I’ll try to help the headliner as it’s looking frumpy as well as the carpet.  Also today I made sure fresh anti freeze was in the radiator to keep that investment healthy.  Ran the engine until I ran out of gas and then drained the gas tank of green gas. Got a pint or so. Changed the fuel filter. It seems the radiator shop that cleaned and sealed the tank did me wrong. They’re no longer in business. The sealer is reacting with gas. The gas has Stabilizer in it. So for now I will just put one gallon in the tank and run it dry and keep monitoring it with fresh gas. PITA.  

[Rodney_Hamon]

I’m angry at this windshield frame. It should not be rusted this bad. I finally had to wrestle it out the cab opening with the tape hanging off it...slicing two fingers in the process from the flaking chrome that is as tough as a razor blade. What would you guys do at this point?  Every bolt/screw is “melded” to the metal frame. It’s as if a chemical reaction happened between the chrome and the steel. I have applied the rust inhibitors on the fasteners for almost a month and not one will budge. I am going to grind dn the flaking chrome carefully with a stone on a drill. Then I will apply citric acid to the frame. Honestly it looks like the chrome is holding together the frame at the bottom. I may just fill in the crevasse with liquid steel and spray touch with chrome paint.  Fill in with solder instead ? Would you guys do the same?  Save this battle for later?  I just hate to F around any more trying to loosen fasteners but that tape bugs.  I just know if I strip the bolts out of that tape bracket then I will have to drill and tap but I don’t have tap tools and I hate the thought of working right on glass as well.  

[kencombs]

I  would make a frame from lumber, *(2x6 or 2x4 on edge)large enough to hold the windshield.  Then line it with plastic sheeting stapled or tacked in place.  Insert windshield and cover with your choice of mild acid, vinegar, citric etc.    et

Wait as long as needed and scrub with water and stiff brush.  Rinse with baking soda and water.  Repeat if needed.   Once the rust is gone the fasteners may loosen easily.

 

But, be sure to wash off all the oil that's on it now as it will prevent the acid soak from getting to the rust.  I'd use a hot water wash with Dawn.

[Rodney_Hamon]

Thanks for the reply and one possible work solution. I did manage to wash the frame with citric acid for one hour and flush generously with water from the sprayer outside. Then I really blew the moisture out with the air compressor. I got all the loose crud removed. It finally started to rain here last night so today has been a wet day. I can say this is only the second day like this since May.  It has been that bad in our drought here. I wiped the rubber seal with a light touch of Varn 120 which is a water miscible roller and rubber blanket cleaner/conditioner. It’s an offset printing solvent. Reading, I need to find some 303 Aeronautical cleaning agent to protect the rubber seal.  I’m thinking of that acetic acid bath but worry about the rubber seal that still is  in great shape..,probably better than stuff available now. In drier weather which will be soon I’ll have another go-around with the frame cleaning. 

[Rodney_Hamon]

A lot of selective grinding with stones of various sizes on a drill, a Dremel tool, and finally an angle grinder has been done now. I chose silver solder to fill in the crevasses. It does not flow smoothly, like trying to flow solder over copper foil in stain glass. Rather, it blobs and picks back up and it is just easier to fill thicker and smooth it the best I can and then grind down to a lower layer. That way when I see cracks I can lay the hot iron down and remelt the solder. I’m at the stage of fine filing and sanding. At least the frame is stable and it was the right choice to just leave the tape in place. Only rust and degraded metal hold the bolts in. A reflection in the pix makes this frame look worse than it is.  I’m actually happy it came out as good as it did  

[Rodney_Hamon]

Been really busy with other things but try to whittle on this frame here/there. Today I went as far as I could before this drives me insane. Hand sanding with an Emory bd, 220, 360, and final polish of 400. Any further aggressive sanding will crack the silver solder so done  and done as a friend says. All fasteners are melded still to the frame so be it. I will want to buy another used one in the future if it’s possible but this frame is going back into the truck for now.  I still need to touch up the window opening channel but have also dremeled out any rust bubbles and have derusted. 

[Rodney_Hamon]

These bolts had defeated me over 2 weeks ago as I could not get them back into the hinge and support up there in that shallow-narrow opening. It tore up my hands and my ego trying to install the windshield back on. But today for some damn reason they went in. I swore to heaven why wasn’t I born with “mommy hands” but then I realized my hands are small enough. I just popped a beer and am celebrating as I almost cried. Man, this was hard. Ok. Next step is to adjust...after a bud lite of course.  

[Rodney_Hamon]

I am this far. I somehow lost half a dozen screws for the under part of the dash cover. It drove me crazy to lose those. I found decent substitutes in my fasteners collection thankfully. I would say that this windshield and vent project set me back 2 months but I guess it’s worth it to eradicate rust, fix and save and lubricate. Going to Milwaukee next week so 2 more weeks will lapse before resuming on the interior and misc. 

[Rodney_Hamon]

Yesterday I finally lowered the truck off its blocks after several years. At first I was nervous the tires were a bit too big but it was fine. Always 1 step forward and then backward. The rear driver drum is frozen again but I don’t see fluid on the floor. And the master cylinder was 3/4 fluid dn. I filled it and said to myself...F it. Going to back it out anyway so I can reposition it to the other side of the garage for the passenger fender install...when it warms up a bit. These rear brakes are such a PITA and I have never had such a hassle with brakes. Just dunno. I could have- I should have done more but this is as far as I can go this year. interior stuff now has to be done...but winter is approaching. 

[Rodney_Hamon]

Success but with a price. Pushing the clutch pedal in I accidentally pushed the wires going to the high beam switch breaking it apart. Yikes!  Didn’t think of that. Checking the routing of wires. Then I put a one inch poke into the back rest from that sharp bracket in the bench seat. I was checking to see if I had gas. Carb had a slight hesitation when giving it gas and the linkage needs lubrication....but I moved it on it’s own power from the one side of the garage to the other. Even moved it with the emergency brake on. Ha. I am sooo out of practice driving this thing but brakes worked and the clutch/tranny seemed good. First time this truck has moved with brakes since 1986. Now I can finish the right front fender area with room. 

[Rodney_Hamon]

Moved wires out of the way of the brake/clutch pedals. Top half of the new dimmer switch popped right back into the housing with no damage and I zip tied it together. Ugh. Will buy another from DSM I guess and keep this as a backup after I try to repair it later.  The temperature dropped like a rock here so I masked off the dodge logo on the tailgate and sprayed it inside. Smelly and the wife complained. But damn again, the painter tape from the Napa paint store pulled paint off the background. Lately I’m one step forward and one or two backwards. I gotta re-evaluate. Maybe it’s hibernation time. 

[Rodney_Hamon]

2 P-23 thermostat housings and 2 different pellet stove exhaust motors later...I’m back to the truck...slowly. Question: does anyone know how many tie down hooks usually were on my ‘36 bed ?  And maybe on the tailgate?  Were hooks standard at all and consistent on these beds up to WWII ?  My truck had 11 hooks. 4 each side and 3 on the tailgate. I’m sure many were added along the way. Ha. This was also a working truck when I bought it in ‘74.  I’m going to start derusting and cleaning them up and I guess at least reinstall most. I think the tailgate just needs the one and not 3.  

[Young Ed]

I would guess 0. I don't believe any were standard on the 39-47 beds

[Rodney_Hamon]

thought so. 11 hooks on this truck. Bed and tailgate perforated but has character. I couldn’t identify truck pictures that had hooks on the bed and certainly on a little tailgate. When I put them back on all purty it’ll make this truck look real spiffy as the hooks have a nice old look to them. Ha. Thanks for the reply 

[Los_Control]

Just went out to look at a utility trailer I have ... (48-50 year) It had 10 hooks on it ... 4 down each side & 2 on tailgate.

My 49 truck had 4 eye bolts on it. 1 in each corner of the bed. .... Hooks are better.

Also both beds had 2 reflectors on the tail gates.

I just think adding the hooks & reflectors was common at the time.

I plan to weld up the big eye bolt holes in my bed, add hooks and replace the reflectors with new.

 

Not factory, just a common upgrade people did back in the day.

 

 

[Rodney_Hamon]

Los...after you went out and counted hooks on your trailer I went and measured the drilled holes in my bed. Not quite “on center” but approximate.  Guess that answers the question if the factory or even a dealer back in the day installed those hooks. In all these years I never thought to measure the hooks placement except the tailgate was suspect. I just assumed. Just another truck with personality 

[billrigsby]

These are the hooks that were on my 48 1 ton, 

always wondered if it was a dealer add-on.

I do like the look of them......

 

Here are the locations......

 

 

 

[Rodney_Hamon]

I still need to get spray paint from Napa to paint the hooks but Spring is almost here. Today I improved my battery box on the firewall and called it done. In a way I don’t like a cluttered firewall but this is how the truck evolved with the overdrive displacing it from under the seat. I will continue to tidy it up. Cables and linkage help are next. Some sticking in operation and a new return spring for the accelerator pedal. Then grommets and rubber. 

[Rodney_Hamon]

Today was the first day in the garage in over 2 months due to heat.  I got the tie down hooks on. I shouldn’t have cut my nails before doing this as it was hard handling the Lilliputian bolts, washers and nuts. After dropping some I resorted to magnet help.  The hooks install gave me the excuse to use up the spray can of Napa paint for touch up. I needed to use it before it lost its pressure as it was too long from purchase date.  Wouldn’t you know it though, just as the temperatures in the garage are in the survival like 90’s now I need to go to the Milwaukee area to help my mother in law for September.  Going into town I saw a small car trailer for sale.  Caught my eye and I thought it perfect for the dodge or my bobcat. Gone too fast.  Anyway,  at least something got done.  I bet the heat of this summer beat up everyone