CO54 Posted January 21, 2021 Report Share Posted January 21, 2021 (edited) I found the 4 speed gasket set from Vintage Power Wagons, was reasonable and all correct. They are cork gaskets, when I installed them I still applied a thin coat of RTV for my peace of mind. It actually worked out because my kids got extra credit in COVID schooling for doing it. I don't have any input on pulling the parking brake drum. Sorry. Edited January 21, 2021 by CO54 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted January 21, 2021 Report Share Posted January 21, 2021 2 hours ago, DrFate77 said: I'm going to use the Grand Cherokee parking brake, can the transmission brake drum be safely omitted? I do not see why you could not omit it, you may need shorter bolts for the yoke, I am sure if its been done you will get a comment. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted January 22, 2021 Report Share Posted January 22, 2021 On 1/21/2021 at 11:00 AM, DrFate77 said: ... I'm going to use the Grand Cherokee parking brake, can the transmission brake drum be safely omitted? Appreciate any advice, transmissions aren't my specialty. I also swapped to the Grand Cherokee rear diff and briefly considered using the GC parking brakes until I took a closer look and felt they looked like a total piece of junk. So I opted to stick with the original transmission mounted parking brake. Just my opinion of course Brad 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrFate77 Posted January 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2021 On 1/21/2021 at 12:24 PM, CO54 said: I found the 4 speed gasket set from Vintage Power Wagons, was reasonable and all correct. They are cork gaskets, when I installed them I still applied a thin coat of RTV for my peace of mind. It actually worked out because my kids got extra credit in COVID schooling for doing it. I don't have any input on pulling the parking brake drum. Sorry. Thanks for the lead on the gaskets, those are pretty reasonable. Did you put the full set on? It's always a slippery slope taking things apart but I suppose it's never going to be easier to get at than it is right now. Great that your kids got to benefit from the experience too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBNeal Posted January 25, 2021 Report Share Posted January 25, 2021 Them old cork gaskets get cracks in them when they dry out, so might as well replace'm all while ya can ? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrFate77 Posted January 25, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2021 I've been getting occasional updates about the engine rebuild from the folks at the shop. Last week they got it fired up for the first time, which was awesome to see. They were even nice enough to send me a video. Not sure what's left for this to be complete, but I'm hoping to put it directly on the frame whenever we get it back. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobertKB Posted January 25, 2021 Report Share Posted January 25, 2021 (edited) Congratulations! Seems like the shop did a nice job. Sounds, looks, and runs great! It's fun bringing dead things back to life! Flathead reincarnation. Edited January 25, 2021 by RobertKB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CO54 Posted January 26, 2021 Report Share Posted January 26, 2021 On 1/24/2021 at 8:00 PM, DrFate77 said: Thanks for the lead on the gaskets, those are pretty reasonable. Did you put the full set on? It's always a slippery slope taking things apart but I suppose it's never going to be easier to get at than it is right now. Great that your kids got to benefit from the experience too! We replaced all but one rear seal under the rear output shaft. I believe it's the retainer for the lower shift rail of gears, didn't want to mess anything internally up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrFate77 Posted February 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2021 It's been brutal cold here in KC, so I've just been hunkering down and chipping away at this thing when I'm not at work. My garage is in my basement and heated, so I've got that going for me. Here's a few updates - I picked up a set of 15" wheels from pick-n-pull last fall, and already had them wire wheeled and powder coated. We upgraded our oven a few years ago, and the old one got reassigned to the garage for powdercoating duties. It's quick and easy to drag the oven into the driveway, shoot on some powder with a cheap harbor freight gun, and bake it onto parts. The finish isn't 100% perfect on the wheels, but I wasn't going to have them sandblasted or anything so it's good enough for me. The 5x5 bolt pattern on these wheels would've been fine for the stock 3/4 ton, but the Grand Cherokee rear end and front disc conversion both require 5x4.5 wheels. Since I already had these wheels done, I just ordered some wheel bolt adapters off ebay. Should be fine for how this truck is going to be used. Tires are a set of 235/75 Cooper's from Wal-Mart and shocks are Gabriel 82065 Classics. The rear brakes are fresh parts for the Grand Cherokee rear. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrFate77 Posted February 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2021 The front disc conversion is the Rusty Hope #2 kit, since I saw other folks were having success with it for this model. We used a drill press to get the steering arms and spindles drilled, and then tapped threads on the spindles by hand. I bet a machine shop could've done it quicker and more precisely, but the parts all bolted together without much struggle. Shopping for the rest of the parts used with the kit is kind of a scavenger hunt of multiple years makes and models, but the prices weren't bad via Rock Auto and everything fits up nicely. On this truck we did learn the caliper brackets have to be oriented forward in order to clear everything. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrFate77 Posted February 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2021 The shop said the engine was ready, and with the truck sitting on tires again we could drop it right back in. While installing we realized how bad the original front and rear rubber mounts were. I ordered replacements from oldmoparts and got them swapped out. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrFate77 Posted February 15, 2021 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2021 Here's the clutch and brake pedal parts disassembled, cleaned up and powdercoated, and then put back together. After the fact I realized the clutch spring is probably supposed to have hooks on both ends, so that part is on order haha. I did a lot of reading on here and saw that a '94 Camry master cylinder might be compatible. I ordered one and sure enough, the bolt pattern basically matches the stock mounting holes exactly. It is a little taller than the frame, hopefully it will work with the cab but I haven't had a chance to check that yet. I installed the brake pedal without the push rod and measured what the uncompressed length to the new MC piston would be. At 118mm the stock push rod is just barely too long. I wanted to avoid grinding down the stock rod in case plans change, so I made a new push rod with a 7/16-20 coupler and bolt from the hardware store. Seems like it will work like it's supposed to. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrFate77 Posted March 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2021 I noticed a bad grind at a certain spot in the steering action, so I took the steering gear box apart and cleaned everything. The parts diagram makes it look intimidating, but there's only one way it can go together and is actually pretty easy to figure out. I omitted the gaskets, but RTV seems to be doing the job. FOR POSTERITY - On this Gemmer steering box, casting numbers 348 / 3DCO3: The pitman arm / side oil seal is a National 240356. The steering shaft / top oil seal can be a National 470954 - It's not quite as thick, but it's a perfect OD/ID fit and will keep dirt out and oil in. The original seal was unmarked and I spent way too long figuring out what to use. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrFate77 Posted March 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2021 (edited) Here's what I ended up doing with the gas tank, let me know what you think. I did some looking around online and as far as I can tell there's no single right way to accomplish this. Most of the rear truck gas tank mods that I was seeing are somewhere between over-engineered and visibly dangerous, hopefully this lands somewhere between the two. The tank is a Liland Global IF28D for a 1970 Mustang. Mustang tanks are cheap, flat, and square, I understand why folks use them on trucks like this. I did some measuring and drew super crude plans for a gas tank cradle subframe thing. It needed to drop down slightly to clear the stock crossmember, which I wanted to leave alone. We decided some thick rubber bushings would reduce vibration and also give it the right amount of clearance. I had our local metal supply shop do the welding. We were going to weld it ourselves in the driveway, but the high that week was like -2 so it was money well spent. The stock mounting holes on the lip of the tank are spaced completely random. Is that to keep Mustang owners from putting their tanks in backwards? I drilled out the subframe to match the tank holes, and then clamped it to the chassis and drilled 5/8" mounting holes in the corners. The tank instructions say to use strip caulk when putting it into a car. Not sure that was necessary on the subframe but I did it here anyway. It may provide cushioning and a bit of a seal for dirt and moisture between the metal surfaces. For mounting hardware I used 2" x 1" rubber bushings from Amazon, with 5/8" bolts and shortened pass-through sleeves. Here it is installed on the truck, looks and feels very solid. It's hard to get a sense of the clearance from the photos, but the bottom of the tank is more or less parallel with the middle of the rear axle. Edited March 4, 2021 by DrFate77 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted March 4, 2021 Report Share Posted March 4, 2021 The strip caulk is a seal because in a mustang that tank is also the trunk floor. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
48Dodger Posted March 4, 2021 Report Share Posted March 4, 2021 11 hours ago, DrFate77 said: The stock mounting holes on the lip of the tank are spaced completely random. Is that to keep Mustang owners from putting their tanks in backwards? I believe that after market 1970 tanks are designed (pre-drilled mounting holes) to also fit 65-68 as well as its original design for the 1970. Ford guys like to increase the fuel capicity of the older mustangs. Like Ed mentioned, the top of the tank is the trunk floor (hence all the ribbing)....which is why those tanks sometimes come with foam cut outs for the perimeter of the tank to help the carpet lay flat. 48D 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CO54 Posted August 30, 2021 Report Share Posted August 30, 2021 On 3/3/2021 at 5:43 PM, DrFate77 said: I noticed a bad grind at a certain spot in the steering action, so I took the steering gear box apart and cleaned everything. The parts diagram makes it look intimidating, but there's only one way it can go together and is actually pretty easy to figure out. I omitted the gaskets, but RTV seems to be doing the job. FOR POSTERITY - On this Gemmer steering box, casting numbers 348 / 3DCO3: The pitman arm / side oil seal is a National 240356. The steering shaft / top oil seal can be a National 470954 - It's not quite as thick, but it's a perfect OD/ID fit and will keep dirt out and oil in. The original seal was unmarked and I spent way too long figuring out what to use. When you pulled the lower plate off with the horn wiring tube/outlet did you find an oil seal, or O-ring in there? The parts explosion of the gear box shows an "oil seal" on that tube. My casting #'s are: Gemmer, 2 88, 3DC03. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DrFate77 Posted September 1, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2021 On 8/30/2021 at 10:07 AM, CO54 said: When you pulled the lower plate off with the horn wiring tube/outlet did you find an oil seal, or O-ring in there? The parts explosion of the gear box shows an "oil seal" on that tube. My casting #'s are: Gemmer, 2 88, 3DC03. Would it be the Worm Gear cover you're looking at? Sure can't recall, I went back to check my photos but didn't get a good shot of that. I'm pretty sure that everything went back in that came off, with the exception of the paper gaskets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Radarsonwheels Posted September 1, 2021 Report Share Posted September 1, 2021 Hey I just caught up on your build- looks awesome. my 2¢- I have jeep zj grand cherokee brakes adapted to a 9.25” axle on my build. The parking brake works fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CO54 Posted September 3, 2021 Report Share Posted September 3, 2021 On 8/31/2021 at 8:12 PM, DrFate77 said: Would it be the Worm Gear cover you're looking at? Sure can't recall, I went back to check my photos but didn't get a good shot of that. I'm pretty sure that everything went back in that came off, with the exception of the paper gaskets. Well, I'll try getting some better pics, I did a test for 24 hours with my gear box and gear oil to verify a leak from the worm gear cover. I put the shaft at same angle as when mounted in the truck and filled with 90W gear oil (thinner than corn grease), no leaks. Continued checking and found a rough spot in the rotation at about 2 turns on one direction, when it goes 5 turns on lock to lock. Will be pulling it apart to inspect and see what's going on. Thanks for your pics and short write up on this style box. I'll do the same on my thread. Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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