Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Ok I am looking to see if someone could help me with any links or parts places I can buy individual parts for my D6G1 and DTC1 carbs I have on my '53 Dodge Meadowbrook the parts I am looking for are circled in red along with the parts names I cant seem to find anywhere so any help would be greatly appreciated thank you20210101_035438.jpg.de1950ca0006ac83b32d8b373f48a31e.jpg

20210101_035223.jpg

Screenshot_20210101-034942_Drive.jpg

20210101_034738.jpg

Posted (edited)

Mike`s Carburetor Shop is a great place to try, and Mike is one heck of a nice helpful guy. He also has great step by step rebuild videos on utube.

 

https://www.carburetor-parts.com/

 

 

 

Edited by linus6948
  • Thanks 1
Posted

If you are missing all those parts you have circled in red I suggest you just look for another core carb.  If you have those parts and are just looking for new, well most of that isn't a wear item and the stuff that is can usually be found in a rebuild kit.   

Posted

Mike's had the float retainer spring that was disintegrated on both my parts carb, and the carb I'm rebuilding. I also see he has a couple springs that were toast on my parts carb, and a little questionable on the rebuild. Good resource. 

Posted

I always look topurchase the Carter rebuild kits that are inthe orange box.  They have all of the small internal brass parts that the generic rebuild kits donot have.  So keep checking ebay and your local swap meets.  Pick them up when you ever see one these are getting harder to find but sometimes you luck out.  Also get one kit and then it lists the small parts on the top label and then check other carb kits for your specific car and year and you might find that most of the internal parts are used in other kits.

 

Do your homework and it pays off sometimes.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

  • Like 2
Posted

Those orange box old Carter kits are the real deal to use.

There are two versions..

A very very complete kit and then the standard quick rebuild kit with the needed parts kit for a typical rebuild.

The Kits sold today consist of pretty much a couple styles of needle and seats, accelerator pump, couple small balls and a pile of gaskets for four different Carter BB carbs.

Some new kits might include a new mixture screw too.

Posted
6 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Those orange box old Carter kits are the real deal to use.

There are two versions..

A very very complete kit and then the standard quick rebuild kit with the needed parts kit for a typical rebuild.

The Kits sold today consist of pretty much a couple styles of needle and seats, accelerator pump, couple small balls and a pile of gaskets for four different Carter BB carbs.

Some new kits might include a new mixture screw too.

and the cost is 30-40 dollars and sometimes you can get the NOS complete kits with all the bells and whistles cheaper. I have been collecting the carter kits for my 39 DeSoto everytime I get a chance to purchase one at a decent price. No I am not hording the kits but have seen these kits getting harder and harder to find. They only made so many and as our car get old the supply will get even smaller so buy now to have for a future use there will always be a need to these items. I am not trying toget rich off of anyone but just try to stay ahead of the supply.

 

Rich Hartng

Posted

Are ya sure you are not trying to get rich?

That's your name !?

Posted

Ok so here is where I am at on the '53 so apparently i cleaned the carbs DTC1 & DG61 to good and the fuel Is still leaking bad so new question who can tell me where to get the 2 of throttle body bases Screenshot_20210111-001545_Chrome.jpg.ae685dbad7da6bbac356a4cd559b1cf2.jpgI have circled in red on att. Pics where mine is leaking any help will be greatly appreciated thank you 

 

20210110_180657.jpg

Posted

The shaft bearings could be worn allowing fuel to seep out around the shafts.

Posted

The leak from the throttle area is just a symptom of the real problem.  There should be no liquid gasoline in that area, it should already be atomized at that point.  Most likely the needle and seat is not sealing well, the float is improperly adjusted or defective.  If it only leaks after running at normal temp or above then shut down, it may be boiling fuel in the bowl. 

 

Just to be clear, changing  the throttle base will not fix the problem as it is above that part.

  • Like 4

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use