ChrisMinelli Posted December 23, 2020 Report Posted December 23, 2020 Hello, Can somebody show me a photo of the temperature control valve location? My heater doesn’t seem to connect to anything (see photo) and there is a water valve (the kind you use to shut off the water to your outside faucets in the winter) on a line running from the block to the heater core. I suspect that is where the original valve was located, but I need to figure out if that is the case so if I get a replacement heater valve and line it will fit properly. Thanks! (Yes, I know the heater roll is not authentic to the car. Number 785 of things I need to correct out of 2000). Quote
desoto1939 Posted December 23, 2020 Report Posted December 23, 2020 Back near the number six sparkplug on the top of the head there should be a plug with a square head on it and the head might have been marked Heater. This is where the shutoff valve get screwed into the head. Some of the later cars had a cable controled valve that was opened via a pull cable from inside the car on the dash. These shutoff valves are sometime listed on ebay and are not cheap. There are other that is a manual valve that also screws into the smae hold that has a turn handle to open and close the water going to the heater core. On top of the water pump you might have andother inlet to permit the water to go back to the waterpump and the into the radiator. There was a galvanized tube that had a bend inwhich you would connect the return rubber hose. I used another manual shuoff value here also. By having two shut off values this would permit me to shut off the entire flow of water incase there ever was brake inthe rubber hoses and if an when you ever had to work on the heater core you would not have to drain a major amount of fluid from the block just shut off both value and the only water would be inthe heater box and in the two hoses and minimaul amout of lost water. Hope this helps. Rich Hartung 1 Quote
keithb7 Posted December 23, 2020 Report Posted December 23, 2020 (edited) My 1953 is seen. The heater temperature control unit is located up in the heater core enclosure area shown. Bottom area. A temperature control cable from your heater control hooks up to it. It has a long small brass tube too. I believe it is filled with ether. As it heats up and cools down it regulates water flow through the heater core. The ether heats up and expands or cools as temperatures change, adjusting the water flow valve. It is a nice (also fairly expensive) luxury to have. However not many original ones left, still work. These temperature control valves are not required to have cab heat. You can fix it so the valve is wide open. Then you can control your cab temperature a few ways. By opening draft vents or windows slightly or adjusting your blower fan speeds. The heater will just put out maximum temperature all the time. Not a bad thing... Edited December 23, 2020 by keithb7 Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted December 23, 2020 Report Posted December 23, 2020 My simple and inexpensive heater valve, sourced from the vintage auto restoration aisle of Lowes if I recall correctly: I slid some rubber hose on the tee-handle to protect my tender and delicate fingers. ? 1 Quote
keithb7 Posted December 23, 2020 Report Posted December 23, 2020 (edited) I should have clearly stated that there are generally two water valves. The manual shut-off valve, often seen at the left rear of the head. No cable attaches to it. You can use it to completely isolate your heater core up in the dash. It will shut off any water flow to the heater core, from the head. Any old manual valve will practically do in this spot. Which is often why we see garden tap shut off valves placed here. Then there is the auto regulating water valve that that regulates cab temperature. It has your heater temperature setting control cable hooked up to it. This is the pricey one to replace. As discussed in my post above. Edited December 23, 2020 by keithb7 Quote
DJ194950 Posted December 23, 2020 Report Posted December 23, 2020 Q. What model of heater do you have. Some (many) were dealer add on and the optional factory dealer installed-sold 3 different ones and the stock valve type varied with the model, from very basic to semi automatic whose heater water control valve is quite $$$. A picture or two under hood and under the dash would help. DJ Quote
ChrisMinelli Posted December 24, 2020 Author Report Posted December 24, 2020 Thanks for all the responses! My heater is Model 101, the basic pull out slot heater. I don’t believe having two valves was an original design. (See photo of my service manual). Keith - is it possible your Chrysler has a more advanced heater than my Plymouth? The Plymouth was the basic Everyman car to my understanding. (An old timer told me it was like a base model Buick, no frills and obviously meant for older people. Not a “cool” car to have in 1952.). Here is the block and the valve. The heater control valve would go where the manual water valve (yellow handle) currently is located? Quote
ChrisMinelli Posted December 24, 2020 Author Report Posted December 24, 2020 Keith - this is what my manual says the valve should look like on my Plymouth. Note, as far as I can tell, the Model 100 and Model 101 (mine) are identical save for the year of car they were installed in. Quote
DonaldSmith Posted December 24, 2020 Report Posted December 24, 2020 Here's the heater valve on my '47 DeSoto: The bellcrank pulls the valve open as the knob is pulled. The two little holes in the bellcrank assembly correspond to the two little holes in the body of the valve. Quote
Sniper Posted December 24, 2020 Report Posted December 24, 2020 (edited) On a side note, anyone reproducing the heat distribution duct? Mine is falling apart, what's left of it I should say. My 51 runs the same bell crank operated valve. Edited December 24, 2020 by Sniper Quote
ChrisMinelli Posted December 25, 2020 Author Report Posted December 25, 2020 2 hours ago, Sniper said: On a side note, anyone reproducing the heat distribution duct? Mine is falling apart, what's left of it I should say. My 51 runs the same bell crank operated valve. You mean the box that has the damper in it? I’ve not seen one for sale on the usual sites. Mine is also in pieces. I can rebuild the blower motor I think but the box will need to be substituted with something. Quote
DJ194950 Posted December 25, 2020 Report Posted December 25, 2020 Those Used to be on Ebay a few years ago. A web search in years past came up with several choices out there. Worth the time to look? Cannot say now as I have not looked for about 5-6 years as I have bought one for my 50 Plymouth. Overpriced heavy cardboard but with seam sealers on the joints and several coats of rust proofing undercoating should be good for many years. ? ? DJ Quote
Sniper Posted December 25, 2020 Report Posted December 25, 2020 I mean the duct that directs the heat to the floor. not the one between the heater box and the firewall. Quote
Sniper Posted December 25, 2020 Report Posted December 25, 2020 Found your valve, looking for my duct https://www.ebay.com/itm/1949-1950-1951-1952-DODGE-PLYMOUTH-DESOTO-CHRYSLER-HEATER-VALVE-ASSEMBLY-NOS/174012937240 ouch Quote
keithb7 Posted December 25, 2020 Report Posted December 25, 2020 Ouch! Holy.... I'd try and find a way to make this work: https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-74828-Heater-Valve/dp/B001B7BUAU Quote
Sniper Posted December 25, 2020 Report Posted December 25, 2020 Part number appears to be 1345788 if you want to keep looking for a reasonable one. Quote
Tooljunkie Posted December 25, 2020 Report Posted December 25, 2020 70’s dodge pickups had a cable operated water valve. I added a pinswitch to turn fan on. Works slick, too bad heater is such a piece of crap. Will pull heater out of my parts truck and revisit the whole setup. Quote
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