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FINALLY - My 1948 B-1-D Build Thread, 33 Years Later


billrigsby

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1 hour ago, billrigsby said:

 

I am still not sure if this has the original core or a re-core?

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It's always been my understanding the original radiators had honey comb cores.  The core pictured looks like the new one that was recently installed in my radiator.

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9 minutes ago, bkahler said:

It's always been my understanding the original radiators had honey comb cores.  The core pictured looks like the new one that was recently installed in my radiator.

 

That's kind of what I thought also, I do have two that are just like this, and same part number. 

Which according to the parts book is not the correct number for my truck,

neither is the other one I have which is a honeycomb one that has been disassembled.

Unfortunately I can't find anyone willing to take on the task of reassembling it

and I don't know if the core is even any good.

I know I don't have the thousands of dollars to order a honeycomb rad from Australia, that's for sure.

 

 

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You can rent a cooling system pressure test kit from most of the parts stores.   If it doesn't leak down with a few #s of pressure and the flow is good, it should be OK to install.  Even a zero pressure  system should be able to hold a couple psi for testing.

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21 hours ago, Dave72dt said:

You can rent a cooling system pressure test kit from most of the parts stores.   If it doesn't leak down with a few #s of pressure and the flow is good, it should be OK to install.  Even a zero pressure  system should be able to hold a couple psi for testing.

 

Yes, that will work for the 'built' radiator(s), I am using the wrong terminology, based on the parts book.

My honeycomb radiator is disassembled, so to me the 'core' is the actual honeycomb part minus the tanks.

The parts book calls the entire radiator a 'core', so I need to reassemble the honeycomb one to test.

 

So, I am not even sure if that core is any good, sorry for the confusion.   ?

 

I am guessing only a purist will notice that I do not have what I should, unless I find one.  ?

 

 

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Removed the long block from the engine stand

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Got it situated on the cart, all with no problems, that I like.

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Installed the bellhousing and flywheel

Tell me again WHO thought this was a good design, I am no engineer but WTH!

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Not sure why there are torque specs for the flywheel bolts/nuts,

never seen an open-end with a built in torque dial?  ?

Edited by billrigsby
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And clutch installed,

break time.

 

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Well, took a break, had dinner, watched the Formula One Qualifying and other nonsensical TV.

Back at it, Spent 3 hours searching, I have torn down at least three engine/trans combos plus.

I DO NOT have the throw-out bearing carrier, of course I have one for the 11" fluid drive clutch.

DANG

 

And after a test fit of installing the starter, I need to rework/think the oil filter input line.

YEAH, that's not going to work,

1142424725_135OOOPSthatwontwork.jpg.0159197658807e8383c6738d97c41f6c.jpg

 

Guess I can toss this line and start over, maybe a 45°, which I do not have right now.

1626460472_136Canscrapthisline.jpg.a1fdcae414d2488f2ff91d171d5e08e1.jpg  1415999849_137Timetore-thinkmaybea45.jpg.9ae92a6055f8da4346ba607cd949d74a.jpg

 

One step forward, kicked back a quite a bit.

 

 

 

 

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By the way, what is this threaded hole for?

It is not pipe thread, regular bolt/coarse thread.

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I have plugged it with a bolt/copper washer combo at this point.

 

 

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Mine has a 45 degree fitting on the return port, which gives more clearance for the pressure feed fitting. Also, if you turn your pressure fitting to the 9:00 position (or maybe even 10:30) it may give you more room to work behind your starter. It seem that your starter is longer than mine. 

And I believe that threaded hole in your head is a throttle linkage attachment point for cars. 

p2100237.jpg.2bd127e11f0b946bc72d70252efca5cb.jpg

Edited by Merle Coggins
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12 hours ago, Merle Coggins said:

Mine has a 45 degree fitting on the return port, which gives more clearance for the pressure feed fitting. Also, if you turn your pressure fitting to the 9:00 position (or maybe even 10:30) it may give you more room to work behind your starter. It seem that your starter is longer than mine. 

And I believe that threaded hole in your head is a throttle linkage attachment point for cars. 

 

Yes, I will be picking up some new fittings when I am in town next week, just did not have any 45°s.

Think I will also switch to copper line, much easier to work with, and a coat of paint who will know.

 

I did find an old photo of that original engine/head it was some sort of attachment point, but not in use.

InkedD34_LI_1600x1100.jpg.24bce50dbf157099b86f5776d675b858.jpg

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Added the radiator, exhaust and an oil pressure gauge to the cart today, getting close.

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

Picked up an Ash tray from EBay, missing one mounting stud

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Dis-assembled and ready for cleanup/paint,

checked Bunn's Reference Guide, could not find it, were these black or the truck color?

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The knob is in great shape, but needs repainting to match all the others

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On 11/7/2021 at 5:24 PM, billrigsby said:

 

Added the radiator, exhaust and an oil pressure gauge to the cart today, getting close.

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Throw 2 nylon tie down straps around the top of motor around the metal stand, front and back and give er hell!

 

That's is how I ran my flattie for the first time with No problems what so ever. Never moved at all.

 

Best of luck that she fires right off and no one can wipe the smile off your face!

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On 11/7/2021 at 5:21 PM, billrigsby said:

 

 

InkedD34_LI_1600x1100.jpg.24bce50dbf157099b86f5776d675b858.jpg

Not sure if this has been answered for you yet.....that's a post for the throttle linkage on a car. Truck linkage is bolted behind the block. You can leave it, or replace it with the correct bolt for a truck.

 

Here's a video I did about basic ID stuff....the linkage info starts maybe@ the 2 minute mark.

 

48D

 

  

 

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16 hours ago, 48Dodger said:

Not sure if this has been answered for you yet.....that's a post for the throttle linkage on a car.

 

Yes, it was, but I enjoyed the video, Thanks.

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On 11/21/2021 at 3:36 PM, David A. said:

I bought a NOS one several years ago and it was black. I assume they probably all were. 

 

I think you are correct, I recall a NOS one I was following on EBay that was black,

There is another on EBay that is black NOS Ash Tray

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and the one I got from EBay is black, so that will be my route

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Went ahead and refurbished the old ashtray I got form EBay.

 

Cleaned up the housing, replaced the broken stud, cleaned up the tray and top

and gave everything a protective clear coat793271735_8Housingderustedandclear-coated.jpg.cb52b0420feab45698cfce032c5a394e.jpg

 

538413737_6Traybottomderustedandclear-coated.jpg.c349cbe38fee0036fd63e834eef1763a.jpg

 

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Repainted the front panel and touched up the knob so it matches all the others

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There is a thin layer of Rust-oleum Rust Reformer Primer on the bottom

of the tray, did not want to go too long in the acid bath, covered a few spots

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Completed and ready for installation

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Not going to use it, gave that up years ago, but a nice addition

 

 

Edited by billrigsby
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Been looking for a new heater water valve, the original 'round' style

is ridiculously priced, last one I saw went for over $500, not do'in that.

Around $300 for the superseded model, still pricey.

1146215256_heatervalve.JPG.11d9b8932fc0bf4b599eef282b49ec4d.JPG

 

Got lucky and found one for $75, got it today, seals real good,

could not find parts for the inaccurate one I had, so much better option.

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Looks like some one put a 'pop rivet' where a solid one should be, easy fix.

 

 

 

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On 9/5/2021 at 7:31 PM, billrigsby said:

Well the proverbial ‘one step forward – two steps back’.

 

Re-honed and assembled the leaking cylinder, no leak, but a weep.

 

 

I put the new RR wheel cylinder in today, checked and double checked everything.

 

Made an adapter

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to attach my Hydrolastic Suspension pump to the brake system

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Pressurized it up to 425 pounds

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Wahoo, all wheels lock up no leaks at any cylinder, a slight leak at the front

tee where I put a temporary line at the point the master cylinder to tee line would be.

I will deal with that once the master cylinder is in and I have the correct line,

may nee a new tee.

 

 

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Received a (surprise) UPS delivery this Saturday, first ever on a Weekend.

 

NOS Cigar Lighter to compliment my not so new Ash Tray.

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It is the correct part number from the parts book,

although it is Canadian,

should still work with a US battery! ?

 

 

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2 minutes ago, billrigsby said:

Received a (surprise) UPS delivery this Saturday, first ever on a Weekend.

 

NOS Cigar Lighter to compliment my not so new Ash Tray.

20211204_133328_1600x1200.jpg.429780920a2e8241ba4935e46e9de40c.jpg

 

20211204_133333_1600x1200.jpg.42712f04fd83cbb1495dab81107da2f5.jpg

 

20211204_133340_1600x1200.jpg.936b72d1f8cabb7401816f9fdb7353b8.jpg

 

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20211204_133727_1600x1200.jpg.cedc3118bf3386fcd8ca0294ff7af4ec.jpg

 

It is the correct part number from the parts book,

although it is Canadian,

should still work with a US battery! ?

 

 

 

Nice!

 

Only problem is it's only going to be about 78% efficient :)

 

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Have already been working on a mount for it, both sides of the dash are drilled the same for the ash tray

 

Took a couple of pieces of steel stock and brazed together

292290684_4Mountcleanedupandshaped.jpg.3cf1a8994532d97937cc42c356c45e34.jpg

 

Mimics the ash tray and will be mounted on the passenger side

1131626529_7Mountandashtraysidebyside.jpg.f82e223c8778baa69085506ec030a3b4.jpg

 

Bent to 90° and brazed in two mounting studs

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Now that I have the cigar lighter, I know what size hole to drill

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More to come

 

 

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2 minutes ago, bkahler said:

 

Nice!

 

Only problem is it's only going to be about 78% efficient :)

 

 

Ha, thats OK, quit smoking years ago, for show only!

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