FINALLY - My 1948 B-1-D Build Thread, 33 Years Later

[billrigsby]

On 10/10/2021 at 2:57 PM, ggdad1951 said:

I made brackets that where held on the outer corner headbolts, placed the engine and removed them and then torqued (as they are the last).

 

Well, I will have go that route, but want to test run before installation.

Since I have only torqued to the lowest spec, I'll be sure we are good,

install, torque to mid-range spec and then retorque after driving and break-in.

 

[billrigsby]

 

Wondering what this port on the water pump is for, do not think it was on the old one.

 

 

 

[Young Ed]

2 hours ago, billrigsby said:

 

Wondering what this port on the water pump is for, do not think it was on the old one.

 

 

 

That's for later 50s flatheads. You need to plug it. 

[billrigsby]

2 minutes ago, Young Ed said:

That's for later 50s flatheads. You need to plug it. 

 

I thought that might be the case, curious what it was used for though. The later engines had internal bypass if I remember correctly. Would that have been for the heater?

 

 

[Young Ed]

2 hours ago, billrigsby said:

 

Well, I will have go that route, but want to test run before installation.

Since I have only torqued to the lowest spec, I'll be sure we are good,

install, torque to mid-range spec and then retorque after driving and break-in.

 

That's how we've always done it except for the brackets. Just put the bolts through the chain and lower it in.

[Young Ed]

Just now, billrigsby said:

 

I thought that might be the case, curious what it was used for though. The later engines had internal bypass if I remember correctly. Would that have been for the heater?

 

 

Yup apparently the later cars used that for the heater rather than the up top position. Possibly because of lower hood lines. 

[JBNeal]

that lower heater hose port is a sign of the newer castings with modern sealed bearings...original pumps either had a flanged port on top for the bypass or a NPT port for a heater elbow.

[billrigsby]

9 minutes ago, JBNeal said:

that lower heater hose port is a sign of the newer castings with modern sealed bearings...original pumps either had a flanged port on top for the bypass or a NPT port for a heater elbow.

 

Thanks, this one seems to be a 'one-size-fits-all' because it has all of the above. I've got her plugged up at the bottom though.

[Bryan]

On 10/14/2021 at 2:11 PM, billrigsby said:

 

Wondering what this port on the water pump is for, do not think it was on the old one.

 

 

 

That's for heating the dual carb intake manifold with dual exhaust headers..?  Just kidding.

[billrigsby]

On 10/15/2021 at 3:44 PM, Bryan said:

That's for heating the dual carb intake manifold with dual exhaust headers..?  Just kidding.

 

Well I best just dump some ??? into that setup,

can not let that orifice go to waste.  ?

 

 

[billrigsby]

 

Worked on the carburetor linkage today, since I am not using the carby that came on the engine

but using the correct one the linkage needed a little, and fortunately a little, work.

 

I am not a designer, well graphic designer-Yes, Mechanical-No,

do not have a 'machine shop', so we do what we can with what we got!

 

Mocked it up with scrap metal and then made the final missing link, think it will work OK.

Really just needed an extension arm to have all the original parts move the existing carby linkage.

 

 

 

 

 

Still need to get it all permanently mounted with the correct hardware and pins.

Next I'll work on the choke linkage.

 

 

 

[billrigsby]

 

Got the choke linkage done, need to find a cable connector for the carby end.

 

Also cleaned up and painted the old Carter fuel filter

 

 

 

Had to open up the NAPA 3943 filter element to 7/16" so it would fit,

but there was plenty of material there.

 

 

[Fernando Mendes]

Congratulations to your nice job.

[billrigsby]

3 hours ago, Fernando Mendes said:

Congratulations to your nice job.

 

Thanks!

[billrigsby]

 

Made a fuel pump heat shield today, cutout the basic shape from sheet aluminum

 

Bent to fit, painted with Rust-oleum High Heat Silver

 

Nice fit

 

 

[billrigsby]

 

Now I've ran into a problem,

since I am not using the carby that was on the truck,

but using what research says is the 'correct' one,

my air filter will not mount, have three, all the same mount ?

 

This is what the top of the barrel needs to be to accept the stock air cleaner

 

This is my though to remedy this problem;

Take an old carby and cut the top mounting part of the barrel off (at the red dots)

 

Use an aluminum ring with a series of countersunk screws or rivets to secure the new top to the old barrel

 

Open to any other suggestions of course

 

 

[Merle Coggins]

It appears that you changed from a Carter B&B to a Stomburg. You need to find a proper air filter for the Stromburg. 

[billrigsby]

Yes, that was the obvious and dare I say expensive choice.

I was looking for a little something lighter on the pocketbook.

This day and age people seem to know what these parts are worth or

should I say these people seem to think these parts are gold plated.

I can only imagine what one will cost. I'll have a look around

but I've already got one completely restored painted with a decal on it

ready to go so I would prefer to go that route.

 

 

[Young Ed]

The good news short term is with that straight flange you can get an aftermarket clamp on filter to get you buy. 

[billrigsby]

 

Decided to sacrifice a basket-case carby for the top air cleaner mounting flange

With a small file and little effort, it slide right inside the Stromberg's barrel.

Some pop-rivets and a dab of epoxy on each to seal the holes and good to go.

 

 

[billrigsby]

 

Cleaning out the inside of one of the radiators and leak checking at the same time.

Starting with a Dawn Ultra Platinum dish washing soap and hot water for any oily residue.

I will follow that with CalciumLimeRust (CLR) and hot water for scale build up, then test the flow.

 

 

Fortunately the soapy water did not come out as fast as it went in, seem there are no leaks,

we will see what an overnight soak revels.

I think it is the right size for the 1 ton, the parts book does not go into a lot of detail.

This one has a 2.75" core VS some the narrower 2.25" cores.

 

Not really sure what this tag is referencing, not on others I have?

 

 

 

[billrigsby]

 

No leaks whatsoever overnight, drained the soapy water,

found the obvious brown water and a hoard of pine seed husks, 

a rodent must have made the lower tank a stash house.

 

 

Filled the radiator with a 5:1 mixture of CLR and hot water,

continuously rotating it through the day,

 

did a drain of that, more gunk, but little solids.

 

Got it running clear, with good flow.

 

 

 

[billrigsby]

 

I am still not sure if this has the original core or a re-core?

 

 

 

[billrigsby]

 

Installed the distributor/wires, not without an O-Crap moment,

could not align the rotor at 7 O'clock, only 5 and 10.

Thanks to a quick reply to my probably overly panicked question

from @Plymouthy Adams I was able to rectify that problem.

 

I thought we beat this check list to death,

But that was missing, it is now edited.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited November 5, 2021 by billrigsby

[billrigsby]

 

I did a test fitting of the engine storage/starting stand/cart last week 

 

 

And it got completed today.

I think I am ready to get this thing off that wobbly, albeit 2 Ton engine stand.