billrigsby Posted September 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2021 (edited) Edited 3 hours ago by LazyK Thanks, I knew it had to have a purpose. What document is that from, I have the heater installation instructions but do not have that, mine is for the model 504 heater. Edited September 3, 2021 by billrigsby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted September 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2021 Finished up all the brake lines today, going to flush with brake fluid and try a pressure test. Hopefully no leaks! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted September 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2021 (edited) Filled up the brake lines and cylinders using a brake bleeder. Worked real good after I rigged up a fitting to attach to the master cylinder line. Fluid is coming out clean and clear. I had all the lines well sealed. But, no need for a pressure test, we have a leak. I am surprised only one, the brake cylinders were not the prettiest after 30+ years of sitting. Time for some exploratory surgery and re-honing, maybe a new kit. Edited September 5, 2021 by billrigsby 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted September 6, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 6, 2021 Well the proverbial ‘one step forward – two steps back’. Re-honed and assembled the leaking cylinder, no leak, but a weep, checked the other three, two have similar problems. These were new from Bernbaums in 88, $30 a piece, I am guessing these are now the $75 ones, website is not as concise as the old catalogs used to be. Squirting with oil did not help the 30+ year storage, glad the lines seem to be okay. Need to decide on re-buying or resleeving, these are US Made, not sure what is out there now? Going to check with Whitepost, B/E Warehouse, Hagens, Karps, and Apple on Tuesday, if I recall Sierra is shut down. Any other sources? Are new US Made cylinders still available, resleeving is probably going to be $75-100 each, guessing? Looked locally on Google, nothing comes up for rebuilding, back in the day any shop used to do cylinders, now its all disc or toss n rebuy, would even consider going to AARRGG Denver if need be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LazyK Posted September 6, 2021 Report Share Posted September 6, 2021 On 9/3/2021 at 2:31 PM, billrigsby said: Thanks, I knew it had to have a purpose. What document is that from, I have the heater installation instructions but do not have that, mine is for the model 504 heater. 46-54 Plymouth service manual stumbled across it and remembered this discussion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted September 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2021 Rebuilt the fuel pump today, got a kit from Vintage Auto Parts on EBay. Had three pumps but only the AC pump had 'easily' removable check valves, as @Merle Coggins stated, the others were probably aftermarkets with pressed in valves, they also had the 'REBUILT 588' aluminum tags on them. I used the bottom body from the AC pump. And went with the top body from one of the others due to the fact the rocker arm pin was easily removeable without damage to anything. Removed the original oil seal Insert photo of the new oil seal here, all's my phone gave me was a black screen! Trust me it was installed. New diaphragm and rocker spring installed. Lower body from the AC pump cleaned up. New check valves and installed Cleaned up fuel bowl, new filter screen and gasket. Body assembled. Completed pump. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted September 7, 2021 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2021 On 9/5/2021 at 7:31 PM, billrigsby said: Well the proverbial ‘one step forward – two steps back’. Need to decide on re-buying or resleeving, these are US Made, not sure what is out there now? Going to check with Whitepost, B/E Warehouse, Hagens, Karps, and Apple on Tuesday, if I recall Sierra is shut down. Here is current pricing for resleeving and rebuilding..... Not sure what route to go, still need to look at replacements based on these costs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted September 9, 2021 Report Share Posted September 9, 2021 If you used oil to lube the cups in the wheel cylinders, you may have ruined the cups. They are supposed to be lubed with brake fluid only. Oil softens the rubber compound used in most brake systems. There are some systems that do use other types of fluid including ATF but these old trucks were designed for DOT 3. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted October 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2021 On 9/8/2021 at 6:01 PM, Dave72dt said: If you used oil to lube the cups in the wheel cylinders, you may have ruined the cups. They are supposed to be lubed with brake fluid only. Oil softens the rubber compound used in most brake systems. There are some systems that do use other types of fluid including ATF but these old trucks were designed for DOT 3. No, it was brake fluid, just did not do much to prevent the rusting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted October 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2021 (edited) Head bolts finally showed up so I got the head on today. Edited October 3, 2021 by billrigsby 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted October 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2021 Water pump installed and started masking for paint, hopefully next weekend. Hoping I did not miss anything, time will tell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted October 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2021 I am guessing if I were to rotate the engine in the stand, the oil pump would NOT be primed still, correct? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted October 3, 2021 Report Share Posted October 3, 2021 3 hours ago, billrigsby said: I am guessing if I were to rotate the engine in the stand, the oil pump would NOT be primed still, correct? Depends, what did you use to prime? Oil you might lose prime,vasoline/grease you'd be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted October 3, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2021 24 minutes ago, ggdad1951 said: Depends, what did you use to prime? Oil you might lose prime,vasoline/grease you'd be fine. It was oil, so I'll leave it upright during cleaning/painting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted October 4, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2021 Just need a thermostat, determine the correct orientation of the oil filler tube, attach the breather pipe, check notes and be sure nothing else should be on when painting and ready to go. Masking of the block complete, paint next weekend, might be the last 'warm' one of the year. Using KBS Motor Coater® (I know, it is an Engine!) three step in the aluminum color. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted October 4, 2021 Report Share Posted October 4, 2021 My oil fill pipe offsets to the rear, and there is a clamp near the top that attaches at the coil bracket mount bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted October 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2021 13 hours ago, Merle Coggins said: My oil fill pipe offsets to the rear, and there is a clamp near the top that attaches at the coil bracket mount bolt. Okay that's good to know, I have one of those also. The gray one was the original in the 48 engine, the green one came off of a Dodge car engine and I'm not sure where the black one came from. I'll have to do a little more research, I'd rather go with the one that came in the truck, but I am a little concerned about it not having an upper support bracket. I'll have to see how firm the fit is before I decide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wallytoo Posted October 5, 2021 Report Share Posted October 5, 2021 7 hours ago, billrigsby said: Okay that's good to know, I have one of those also. The gray one was the original in the 48 engine, the green one came off of a Dodge car engine and I'm not sure where the black one came from. I'll have to do a little more research, I'd rather go with the one that came in the truck, but I am a little concerned about it not having an upper support bracket. I'll have to see how firm the fit is before I decide. the filler in my 1.5-ton with the 237 did not have the bracket when i acquired the truck in 2007. i drove it a lot with no issues. it isn’t a load carrying member or structural piece; it’s a fill pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Oil Soup Posted October 5, 2021 Report Share Posted October 5, 2021 I use a little JB weld to help hold the pipe in and minimize oil leakage. A propane torch can be used to soften the JB weld for disassembled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted October 5, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2021 Took the time today, being a warm day and not wanting to be completely reliant on the weather forecast to paint the long block. Amazing how easy it is to paint something that the whole thing is one color! Think I could have added the geni brackets and breather tubes, but I'll do them and any other ods'n'ends separately. Long block 'un-masked'. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted October 8, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2021 Got all of the ancillary parts painted today, will do the bell housing tomorrow and the exhaust manifold using Rust-Oleum High heat Ultra, (hope it is a good match, but it'll change with heat). Glad I pushed the engine painting up, windy and temperature drop starting tomorrow. Winter, she's a com'in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted October 9, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2021 (edited) Painted the bell housing and exhaust manifold, the Rust-Oleum matches really good. Got the two manifolds paired up and the heat riser installed and moving freely. The Motor Coater and Rust-Oleum High Heat matched really good. Started adding several parts to the long block, it is actually starting to look like something. More tomorrow. EDIT, Forgot, shipped off the pressure plate and clutch disc to Tennessee Clutch, really nice gentleman, said 1 day turn around, now that is service! Still waiting for email replies from Roberts, Vic's, Andy Bernbaum and a couple of others on availability of brake cylinders from before the last Holiday..... Not Service, in my never to be humble opinion. Edited October 9, 2021 by billrigsby Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billrigsby Posted October 10, 2021 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2021 Not much done today, manifolds on..... .....why is it only the nuts that a ratchet will not get to are never 'finger loose', the one under the carb mount took FOREVER to get tight! Starting to actually look like a real engine. Should the coil bracket be black or silver? Seen both in posts/photos. Question, how does one lift an assembled engine? head bolts are torqued (to the minimum at this point). Figured I'd let them sit there for a bit, re-torque to the mid range before starting and re-torque to max after that. Is it OK to attach a chain to a couple of the head bolt holes with longer bolts and re-torque. Kind of missed the memo on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ggdad1951 Posted October 10, 2021 Report Share Posted October 10, 2021 I made brackets that where held on the outer corner headbolts, placed the engine and removed them and then torqued (as they are the last). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkahler Posted October 11, 2021 Report Share Posted October 11, 2021 On 10/8/2021 at 8:17 PM, billrigsby said: Painted the bell housing and exhaust manifold, the Rust-Oleum matches really good. Got the two manifolds paired up and the heat riser installed and moving freely. The Motor Coater and Rust-Oleum High Heat matched really good. Started adding several parts to the long block, it is actually starting to look like something. More tomorrow. EDIT, Forgot, shipped off the pressure plate and clutch disc to Tennessee Clutch, really nice gentleman, said 1 day turn around, now that is service! Still waiting for email replies from Roberts, Vic's, Andy Bernbaum and a couple of others on availability of brake cylinders from before the last Holiday..... Not Service, in my never to be humble opinion. PM sent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.