MarcDeSoto Posted June 18, 2020 Report Posted June 18, 2020 I just bought a new fuel pump for my 48 DeSoto. When I used to press the lever on my old pump, it made a sucking sound. Now it just goes down and stops, so I bought a new one. The new one does the same thing. I'm not close to ready to start my engine, so I don't know if I should return it or keep it. Does a new fuel pump make a sucking sound when you push down on the lever? Quote
Sniper Posted June 18, 2020 Report Posted June 18, 2020 Based on all the other fuel pumps I have done that to, it ought to make a sucking sound. Quote
keithb7 Posted June 18, 2020 Report Posted June 18, 2020 For a hint. Put a finger over the intake hole. Pump it a couple times. You’ll feel a vacuum. You could attach a piece of rubber fuel line to the intake side as well. Dip it in some gas. Pump it a few times. Should pump gas. Quote
MarcDeSoto Posted June 19, 2020 Author Report Posted June 19, 2020 15 hours ago, The Way said: Which fuel pump did you buy? I bought this one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Pump-Single-Action-1946-1953-DeSoto-6cyl-NEW-46-47-48-49-50-51-52-53/142987275025?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Quote
MarcDeSoto Posted June 19, 2020 Author Report Posted June 19, 2020 I went to the garage and tested the fuel pump again. I was doing a couple of things wrong. First, I forgot to remove the plugs on the in and out ports. I tested it again and it does suck air now. I just have to push the lever with a lot of force. My old fuel pump, which was working in 1980 now is frozen and the lever doesn't move. 2 Quote
greg g Posted June 19, 2020 Report Posted June 19, 2020 If that is the Airtex fuel pump, they are natorious for having the fulcrum pin on the cam lever walk out. This can lead to the lever assembly falling into the oil pan sometimes getting hit by a crankshaft counter weight and punted through the oil pan. They are assembled with an interference fit and it is not adequate to retain the pin. Airtex denies this problem but it has been reported on this forum at least a dozen times. Before you install the pump you should take a close look at the pin. You might want to make some sort of clip or clamp to keep in place, stake the pump body to lock it in or replace the pin with a longer one with a head and c clip retainer. Also the service manual has a procedure for testing output column. I would suggest you do the test prior to first start up attempt. If your manual doesn't have it, I can reprise it here. Quote
classiccarjack Posted June 19, 2020 Report Posted June 19, 2020 8 hours ago, MarcDeSoto said: I went to the garage and tested the fuel pump again. I was doing a couple of things wrong. First, I forgot to remove the plugs on the in and out ports. I tested it again and it does suck air now. I just have to push the lever with a lot of force. My old fuel pump, which was working in 1980 now is frozen and the lever doesn't move. That's great news. Quote
keithb7 Posted June 19, 2020 Report Posted June 19, 2020 (edited) Some fuel pumps today are priced near the price of a rebuild kit. Folks may choose to replace versus rebuilding these pumps. I decided to mix up some 2-part JB Weld and put liberal coatings (3 light layers over 3 days) over both ends of the fulcrum pin ends. It’s not coming out any time soon. Edited June 19, 2020 by keithb7 Quote
MarcDeSoto Posted June 20, 2020 Author Report Posted June 20, 2020 15 hours ago, greg g said: If that is the Airtex fuel pump, they are natorious for having the fulcrum pin on the cam lever walk out. This can lead to the lever assembly falling into the oil pan sometimes getting hit by a crankshaft counter weight and punted through the oil pan. They are assembled with an interference fit and it is not adequate to retain the pin. Airtex denies this problem but it has been reported on this forum at least a dozen times. Before you install the pump you should take a close look at the pin. You might want to make some sort of clip or clamp to keep in place, stake the pump body to lock it in or replace the pin with a longer one with a head and c clip retainer. Also the service manual has a procedure for testing output column. I would suggest you do the test prior to first start up attempt. If your manual doesn't have it, I can reprise it here. Would checking the pin require disassembly of the pump? I will take a look at it, and thanks for the warning. Quote
Jerry Roberts Posted June 20, 2020 Report Posted June 20, 2020 You can see the pin just by looking at the outside of the pump . But that doesn't mean that the pin is going to stay put . You can often see punch marks on the housing where the casting has been staked , is that good enough ? I wouldn't trust it . Quote
Merle Coggins Posted June 21, 2020 Report Posted June 21, 2020 I think If I had a ‘new’ pump again I would stake the pin. I’ve seen where guys have used a center punch on the housing around the pin to squeeze it tighter and it still came out. I would probably support one end of the pin and strike the other end with a center punch to mushroom the end. Repeat on the other end. This would secure it much better. Quote
Polsonator2 Posted July 2, 2020 Report Posted July 2, 2020 The pin on my brand new fuel pump failed as well Quote
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