rugbyjon112 Posted June 8, 2020 Report Posted June 8, 2020 Can anyone give me advice on where to set the idol screw on my Carter B&B carb? I bought a new one and I’m not sure were to set initially. I’m having some problems getting the car started with the new carb. Quote
Sniper Posted June 8, 2020 Report Posted June 8, 2020 (edited) I believe I started one turn from lightly seated when I rebuilt mine. if we are talking about the idle mixture screw and not the idle speed screw. Edited June 8, 2020 by Sniper Quote
Los_Control Posted June 8, 2020 Report Posted June 8, 2020 11 minutes ago, rugbyjon112 said: Can anyone give me advice on where to set the idol screw on my Carter B&B carb? I bought a new one and I’m not sure were to set initially. I’m having some problems getting the car started with the new carb. Going to need more info, the idle screw is not going to stop it it from starting. We need to look elsewhere. Do you have spark? If you have spark at the plugs, is the firing order correct? These old oil pumps need to be installed with correct TDC on #1 cylinder ... if not done correctly, is like skipping a tooth on other distributors and changes the plug wires rotation. My oil pump is not correct and instead of #1 at 7:0clock I had to rotate them counter clockwise 1 position for it to start ... I fought this for days before I figured it out. Basic steps you need to go through, idle screw is not stopping it from starting. 1 Quote
rugbyjon112 Posted June 8, 2020 Author Report Posted June 8, 2020 31 minutes ago, Los_Control said: Going to need more info, the idle screw is not going to stop it it from starting. We need to look elsewhere. Do you have spark? If you have spark at the plugs, is the firing order correct? These old oil pumps need to be installed with correct TDC on #1 cylinder ... if not done correctly, is like skipping a tooth on other distributors and changes the plug wires rotation. My oil pump is not correct and instead of #1 at 7:0clock I had to rotate them counter clockwise 1 position for it to start ... I fought this for days before I figured it out. Basic steps you need to go through, idle screw is not stopping it from starting. Quote
Los_Control Posted June 8, 2020 Report Posted June 8, 2020 Just adding, to correct my plug wire issues, I removed the pipe plug on #6 cyl, brought it up to compression stroke and set the plug wires from there ... was pretty simple. I just wish they put the pipe plug on #1 cyl, since all directions say to start with #1 tdc Quote
rugbyjon112 Posted June 8, 2020 Author Report Posted June 8, 2020 Los_Control, Thanks for the information. I’ve often wondered why they put it over #6 instead of #1 myself. Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted June 8, 2020 Report Posted June 8, 2020 1 minute ago, rugbyjon112 said: Los_Control, Thanks for the information. I’ve often wondered why they put it over #6 instead of #1 myself. Might be kinda hard with that thermostat housing sitting on top of #1...... Quote
Sniper Posted June 8, 2020 Report Posted June 8, 2020 #1 and #6 are both mechanically at TDC at the same time. You just need to ensure #1 is on the compression stroke when setting up the timing. Quote
rugbyjon112 Posted June 8, 2020 Author Report Posted June 8, 2020 Sniper, What’s the best way to make that determination? Quote
desoto1939 Posted June 8, 2020 Report Posted June 8, 2020 also with the plug at number 6 plug there is less of a chance for your hand to move forwards by accident and then get hit by the radiator fan whne the engine is running. Not a nice situation to be so close to a running fanblade. Your hand a fingers would not like that either. Safety issue before we had OSHA standards. There is always a systematic reason for a design. Rich Hartung Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted June 8, 2020 Report Posted June 8, 2020 (edited) Why would we run the engine with the #6 inspection plug removed? Inquiring minds....... ? Edited June 8, 2020 by Sam Buchanan 1 Quote
soth122003 Posted June 8, 2020 Report Posted June 8, 2020 Hey Sam, It's because some one said "Hold my beer and watch this!" Rugbyjon, With the plugs out, pull that fitting from no. 6 and use a dowel rod or coat hanger about 12 inchers long. Bump the eng with a remote starter switch and put your thumb or finger over the number one plug hole. when you feel pressure start to build watch for the dowel rod to fully rise up. Just barely bump the switch when the rod is up and you felt pressure at number one that is TDC for that cylinder. Joe Lee 1 Quote
DonaldSmith Posted June 8, 2020 Report Posted June 8, 2020 soth12203 beat me to the answer. Thumb over the no. 1 spark plug hole. Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted June 8, 2020 Report Posted June 8, 2020 (edited) I was going to suggest moving the #6 wire all the way up with the rotor pointing at the #1 plug wire....no need to remove spark plugs. ? Edited June 8, 2020 by Sam Buchanan Quote
motterso Posted June 8, 2020 Report Posted June 8, 2020 Go all the way in (gently so as not to ruin the needle) and back it out 1.5 to 2 full turns. That should be a good place to start. You will want to fine tune afterwards. Quote
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