Chachos 49 Posted April 25, 2020 Report Posted April 25, 2020 (edited) Ignition switch turns car on but when switch to off position it stays on Edited April 25, 2020 by Chachos 49 Turn in notification Quote
Chachos 49 Posted April 25, 2020 Author Report Posted April 25, 2020 1 minute ago, Chachos 49 said: Ignition switch turns car on but when switch to off position it stays on Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted April 25, 2020 Report Posted April 25, 2020 (edited) Sounds like time for a new switch. Edited April 25, 2020 by BobT-47P15 1 Quote
greg g Posted April 25, 2020 Report Posted April 25, 2020 What happens if you turn the key to the acc position? Fully counter clockwise. Quote
Chachos 49 Posted April 25, 2020 Author Report Posted April 25, 2020 Greg gIt stays in on all positions. Bob you think so? Quote
Sniper Posted April 25, 2020 Report Posted April 25, 2020 When I got my 51 the OP's hack mechanic removed the lighter and put in a push button to start the engine. Key had to be in run though. Seems turning the key to start did nothing. I pulled the ignition switch and found that the part that crimps to switch together was somewhat loose, tightened the crimp up and it now works as designed. Wouldn't hurt to check, disconnect the battery first. Quote
Los_Control Posted April 25, 2020 Report Posted April 25, 2020 This sounds strange, I am no electrical guru. If you have to turn the switch to the on position for it to start .... I assume it will not start with the key in off position ? Myself I agree time for a new switch, this may fix it ... I am thinking the wiring is also messed with, somehow back feeding once it is started? I suspect new switch and then switching the wire mess now back to original. I am at this very moment adding a start button to my riding mower because the switch is bad. All I need to do is run power from the battery to one side, then the other side to the starter solenoid. Other then removing the original wire from the solenoid, I am not touching any factory wiring. Same principle if you use a remote starter switch to work on the car. The solenoid only needs a 12 or 6 volt signal to spin the starter, the key in the on position sends the signal to the coil. Quote
kencombs Posted April 25, 2020 Report Posted April 25, 2020 12 hours ago, Chachos 49 said: Ignition switch turns car on but when switch to off position it stays on Need more info. key start switch, push button start, foot start? Or make and model? We're all just guessing without more detail. Does start work normally and return to 'ON'? Quote
Chachos 49 Posted April 26, 2020 Author Report Posted April 26, 2020 1949 Plymouth special deluxe. Key turns on at start and returns to on. But when I turn the key to off it will not turn off Quote
kencombs Posted April 26, 2020 Report Posted April 26, 2020 20 minutes ago, Chachos 49 said: 1949 Plymouth special deluxe. Key turns on at start and returns to on. But when I turn the key to off it will not turn off Sure sounds like the switch is defective. Contact loose, spring weak etc. If you turn from on/run all the way to accessory , and back to off does it stop? : Just thought of something else: has the car been converted to 12v with an alternator? Quote
Chachos 49 Posted April 26, 2020 Author Report Posted April 26, 2020 Kencombs no it doesn’t. Yes it’s been converted to 12v Quote
kencombs Posted April 26, 2020 Report Posted April 26, 2020 41 minutes ago, Chachos 49 said: Kencombs no it doesn’t. Yes it’s been converted to 12v With alternator? Recently? Reason I ask is that this is a common symptom of a conversion with no means to prevent the alternator from back feeding the ignition. Quote
Chachos 49 Posted April 26, 2020 Author Report Posted April 26, 2020 Kencombs yes with alternator. I just recently purchased the vehicle and it came this way. Not sure if it has a diode. But just seen on videos that I should have one? Quote
Sniper Posted April 26, 2020 Report Posted April 26, 2020 I converted my 51 to 12V, with an alternator. Zero issues with it staying running, BUT I used a stock Mopar alternator and the stock style charging system for that alternator. Not a 1 wire GM setup, which is where the feedback issue can occur. Quote
Sniper Posted April 26, 2020 Report Posted April 26, 2020 I was in the military years ago, we had a word for that mess. Your wiring looks like mine did when I bought my 51. I just took it all out and put in a new electrical system. Sometimes starting from scratch is easier than finding and fixing all the PO hacks. I think the only electrical parts I reused was the horns and the starter. 1 Quote
Chachos 49 Posted April 27, 2020 Author Report Posted April 27, 2020 (edited) All I really need is the alternator right? I can get rid of the ignition coil? I didn’t see the coil in other set ups Edited April 27, 2020 by Chachos 49 Misspelling Quote
Sniper Posted April 27, 2020 Report Posted April 27, 2020 Not sure what you are asking here. But it looks like you have a white wire going from the battery to the coil? If so I think that's your culprit. Quote
Chachos 49 Posted April 27, 2020 Author Report Posted April 27, 2020 Sniper where should that white wire connect to Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted April 27, 2020 Report Posted April 27, 2020 first thing you need to have in your hand is a repair manual with the schematic, a basic understanding of the charging system and the means to take it from generator to alternator with wiring changes....AMPLE gauge wires as the one on the alternator looks a bit light in the loafers and the most important tool the VOM and a understanding of how it works so that testing can be done and proper repairs made. 1 1 Quote
Sniper Posted April 27, 2020 Report Posted April 27, 2020 What Plymouthy said is the best route to go. Your coil should have a total of three wires hooked to it, stock. No more, no less. Now assuming we are talking about your 49 listed in your project and it's a 12v negative ground conversion they are as follows. On the small terminal labeled -, you should have one wire that goes to the points. (if you have a tach installed there should be a second wire there for the tach signal) On the small terminal labeled +, you should have one wire that goes to switched 12V that has power with the key in start or run. Did they use a ballast resistor when they converted to 12v? On the tower in the center of the coil you should have the coil wire that goes to the coil. That's it. Looks like someone wired that white wire in as a jumper because they had a problem with the stock wiring, may have wired it in the wrong place. My service manual shows that the wire going to the + terminal of the coil should connect to the I terminal of the horn relay. Quote
John Reddie Posted April 27, 2020 Report Posted April 27, 2020 11 hours ago, Sniper said: Not sure what you are asking here. But it looks like you have a white wire going from the battery to the coil? If so I think that's your culprit. Yes this does make sense. In other words, the white wire is basically bypassing the ignition switch. You also don't want to leave that wire connected for long if the engine is turned off because the points and coil could be damaged. I would undo that and see what happens (will the ignition switch then work as it should). A wiring diagram is needed here too. Best of luck to you. John R Quote
Sniper Posted April 27, 2020 Report Posted April 27, 2020 One other thing. it's all fine and dandy to say "get a service manual". But it's useful to actually tell them where they can get one. One place you can get it is Rockauto. You can get the manual in paper form there, or you can get it on CD with or without the parts manual too. 1 Quote
Chachos 49 Posted May 5, 2020 Author Report Posted May 5, 2020 1amp 50v. Are these correct for the alternator feed back? Quote
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