Any places to NOT use anti-seize on flathead bolts?

['41 Fat Bottom Girl]

I usually use anti-seize on a number of bolts and/or studs that aren't torque-critical, including water pump and goose-necks and most general usage that also have lock washers and might need disassembly in future.

But on an engine rebuild...

I was told once years ago (correctly? Not?) that on a clean block when installing new head bolts, it is best not to use it, as it can give you bad numbers on a torque wrench by acting as a lubricant on the threads.

How about flywheel bolts that mate up to the engine plate? 

Another is, what about applying anti-seize to intake manifold and exhaust manifold bolts/studs going into the block?

Thanx!

[Sniper]

Everything has a torque specification.  Bolts stretch, sort of like a spring, to clamp the load.  Not enough stretch and they loosen, too much and they can break.

 

Attached is the PDF from Anitsieze regarding new torque specifications.

torque_specifications.pdf

[Bbdakota]

Any bolt or stud going into a water jacket should have sealant applied to the threads. 

Edited February 23, 2020 by Bbdakota

[Tooljunkie]

Flywheel related  bolts use loctite. 
its also considered an anti-sieze. 
i use anti-sieze on  manifold bolts. 
sparingly. 
light oil on clean  head bolts. Except the ones that enter water jacket. Sealant. 
anti-sieze and loctite are both thread sealants. 

Edited February 23, 2020 by Tooljunkie

[kencombs]

IMO, thread sealer on all head, water pump and manifold bolts .  'cause most enter the water jacket and it's just easier to do all of them that keep track.  Also provides even torque measurement.  Flywheel gets blue locktite.  Probably not needed as it didn't exist 'back then', but they get it anyway.  Antisieze only on exhaust pipe to manifold and the four bolts that hold the manifolds together.

['41 Fat Bottom Girl]

Thanx, all!

Great info on the pdf regarding anti-seize, Sniper.

Guys, on the sealant and Loctite:

I suppose #2 Permatex would be OK as a thread sealant?

Loctite- Blue Loctite is my guess for thread locking, as using Red on clean threads may never disassemble again (!)

Great advice.

Regards to all...

[Sniper]

NP,  I ran into this issue some years ago, pre internet, when the machine shop used anti seize on some ARP rod bolts when installing them.  had to make a phone call back then to ARP to see what they suggested, their suggestion was to carefully clean off all the anti seize and use their specified lube at their specified torque values.  I suspect that was the safe answer and with rod bolts that was probably the best way to go.

 

 

 

 

 

[Mopar-Boy]

does anyone know which head bolts enter a water jacket?  I have a 1933 201, but guessing its the same for 218, 230, etc.

 

[TodFitch]

56 minutes ago, Mopar-Boy said:

does anyone know which head bolts enter a water jacket?  I have a 1933 201, but guessing its the same for 218, 230, etc.

 

'33 does not have the full length water jacket and has a little more narrow block & head. I believe there are some studs on the '33 that do not enter the water jacket but do on '35 and up engines.

[Ivan_B]

I tend use anti-seize mostly everywhere, unless the manufacturer specifies something else like thread lock or sealant

[Sniper]

The specified lubricant for factory torque values is 30wt oil, unless otherwise directed.  Using antisieze lessens that value about 15%, which means if you are using the factory specs and antisieze you are over tightening the fasteners.