Clueless brit buys '54 C1

[n00dle]

7 hours ago, Frank Elder said:

Wonderful truck....the OP sure liked his gages...lol.

What brand lift is that and are you satisfied with it ? Good luck with your shocks.

Last but not least, Frank if my truck was the one you were referring to .... i have no idea .. is it lifted? sorry ?

[Merle Coggins]

I believe Frank was referring to the vehicle lift that your truck is perched upon.

[n00dle]

haha .. whoops!

Couldnt tell you off the top of my head but other than the oil getting too thick in the cold and the release leavers being in an annoying place it's certainly made life easy. I'll have a look in the morning and let you know.

[CO54]

The holes you pointed out on the frame could have been where the original shock mount was, is there another hole under the bed crossmember that isn't visible?

From zooming in on my photos, they appear to have 2 bolts on the top frame rail, then a bracket running vertically down to the lower frame rail, where I think it has 1 more bolt.  

[Merle Coggins]

Also, regarding the bed cross member, why is it notched out so much? Was he trying to lower the bed in relation to the frame? Maybe that's why there's no wood for a bed floor. He couldn't make it work around the frame hump with it sitting so low. In fact, from the pictures I don't even see how the bed is even attached to the frame. ?

 

I'm not great at axle identification, but it appears to possibly be a Mopar 8-3/4 axle. It's quite possibly a bit narrower than the original axle. In lieu of longer studs with spacers, maybe consider this type of spacer. It goes over your existing studs and provides a second set of studs for the wheel to attach. They are available in many different sizes, and can often be use to change the bolt pattern size. I have a set on my truck to change from 4-1/2" pattern to a 5" pattern.

Edited January 29, 2020 by Merle Coggins
spelling correctin

[n00dle]

The bed was all there, i took it out as it was a bit worse for wear so needs sanding down etc.

It sat on the angle frame running round the edge and then on that one rusty bit of frame just between the two cross beams, you can see it better here:

[n00dle]

33 minutes ago, CO54 said:

The holes you pointed out on the frame could have been where the original shock mount was, is there another hole under the bed crossmember that isn't visible?

From zooming in on my photos, they appear to have 2 bolts on the top frame rail, then a bracket running vertically down to the lower frame rail, where I think it has 1 more bolt.  

I dont think so ..  I'll have to have a look tomorrow. Ultimately i'll box the frame out roughly where the shock should go to and depending on how the bed sits I'll either get a bracket on top like yours is or do something similar to the earlier trucks and have it on the bit of steel i box with... it's won't be correct mind you.

 

Merle, these might be just what im after .. i can press the studs out so longer ones plus spacers are an option but that seems like a more robust way without individual spacers etc

[desoto1939]

OK I read all of the postings but no one noticed in the first few pictures the very old vintage cars that are parked behibd the truck.  I am assuming that they are between 1900 to around 1912 circa and being opened would assume they had gas lights because of the spoked wheels.

 

So provide us with some pictures and information do you do the Brighton Run with these cars over in Merry Olde England?

 

Rich HArtung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[Todd B]

I have never realized before that the 54 corner windows are longer than the B series 

[bkahler]

2 hours ago, Merle Coggins said:

Also, regarding the bed cross member, why is it notched out so much? Was he trying to lower the bed in relation to the frame? Maybe that's why there's no wood for a bed floor. He couldn't make it work around the frame hump with it sitting so low. In fact, from the pictures I don't even see how the bed is even attached to the frame. ?

 

I'm not great at axle identification, but it appears to possibly be a Mopar 8-3/4 axle. It's quite possibly a bit narrower than the original axle. In lieu of longer studs with spacers, maybe consider this type of spacer. It goes over your existing studs and provides a second set of studs for the wheel to attach. They are available in many different sizes, and can often be use to change the bolt pattern size. I have a set on my truck to change from 4-1/2" pattern to a 5" pattern.

 

Merle, 

 

Would you consider this type of spacer better than using longer studs with a "loose" spacer?  

 

With my axle change I need to add 1 inch to each side to put the wheels back where they were originally.  The problem with a 1 inch spacer of this type is my wheel studs are 1-1/4" which means they are to long for a 1" spacer.  If you feel this spacer is better I would then consider going to 1-1/4 inch spacers or possibly even 1-1/2 inch so my studs would clear.  The question is will the addition 1/4 to 1/2" per side make a difference in the wheel wells for the rear wheels?

 

Brad

 

[DJ194950]

These type of "spacers" are made to alter the wheel pattern to suit or made to space wheels outward for wheel clearance issues without changing bolt pattern.

 

Cut your wheel studs length to fit the dimensions as needed or change the studs to proper length . Cheap enough and not hard to do.

 

But wait until you see the price of spacers as pictured, not so cheap.  All is relative to the depth of your wallet! ?

 

DJ

[bkahler]

36 minutes ago, DJ194950 said:

These type of "spacers" are made to alter the wheel pattern to suit or made to space wheels outward for wheel clearance issues without changing bolt pattern.

 

Cut your wheel studs length to fit the dimensions as needed or change the studs to proper length . Cheap enough and not hard to do.

 

But wait until you see the price of spacers as pictured, not so cheap.  All is relative to the depth of your wallet! ?

 

DJ

 

If I go with this style of spacer I'm inclined to to with 1-1/4" as that would only require a slight buffing of the wheel stud tips to get proper clearance.  I'm not overly interested in replacing the wheels studs or cutting them down for that matter.  I generally take the easy way out whenever possible!

 

Thanks,

 

Brad

[Merle Coggins]

I don’t recall them being overly expensive. Maybe $25-$30 each... 

Shop around. There are many places that offer them in different thickness and bolt patterns. Or, like DJ said, you could always shorten up your studs. 

[DJ194950]

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cal-75809/overview/

 

Just one idea as I have no idea of his bolt pattern on the rear end.

 

Various thicknesses and bolt patterns are available. I do not thick I would go that wide or even 1" spacers with only long studs and not this type  that has  bolts holding spacer on with studs protruding from the spacer for the wheel, but that's My opinion for My car only.

 

Not sure how thick anyone makes a  spacer that is not of this type.  I Saw up to 1/2", but maybe thicker is available??

 

DJ

[ggdad1951]

13 hours ago, Todd B said:

I have never realized before that the 54 corner windows are longer than the B series 

 so is the rear

[bkahler]

15 hours ago, DJ194950 said:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cal-75809/overview/

 

Just one idea as I have no idea of his bolt pattern on the rear end.

 

Various thicknesses and bolt patterns are available. I do not thick I would go that wide or even 1" spacers with only long studs and not this type  that has  bolts holding spacer on with studs protruding from the spacer for the wheel, but that's My opinion for My car only.

 

Not sure how thick anyone makes a  spacer that is not of this type.  I Saw up to 1/2", but maybe thicker is available??

 

DJ

 

Originally I was more inclined to go with loose spacers and longer wheel studs.  As I've done more research and get comments from people it seems that the style that bolts to the hub and provides new studs is a better way to go.  

 

I believe what I will end up doing is buying 1-1/4" adapters that bolt to the original hubs and if need be trim the ends of my 1-1/4" long wheels studs be to fit the adapters.  

 

Thanks for the info.

 

Brad

 

[LazyK]

rear end appears to be a later model mopar 8-3/4.  Look at the casting number on the side, should end in 741,742, or 489.

[n00dle]

On 1/29/2020 at 11:05 AM, Frank Elder said:

Wonderful truck....the OP sure liked his gages...lol.

What brand lift is that and are you satisfied with it ? Good luck with your shocks.

automotech 4ton

 

 

On 1/29/2020 at 7:47 PM, CO54 said:

The holes you pointed out on the frame could have been where the original shock mount was, is there another hole under the bed crossmember that isn't visible?

From zooming in on my photos, they appear to have 2 bolts on the top frame rail, then a bracket running vertically down to the lower frame rail, where I think it has 1 more bolt.  

 There is another hole opposite, it seems to my untrained eye that it’s roughly where the shocks go to..

[n00dle]

14 hours ago, LazyK said:

rear end appears to be a later model mopar 8-3/4.  Look at the casting number on the side, should end in 741,742, or 489.

657? 557?

[CO54]

4 hours ago, n00dle said:

automotech 4ton

 

 

 There is another hole opposite, it seems to my untrained eye that it’s roughly where the shocks go to..

I would agree with you, that looks to be about where mine are located, the only difference is I have 2 mounting bolts on the top, and 1 on the bottom if memory is right.  Sorry, I haven't been able to get any pics this week.  Kids have had a busy week of practices etc, and it's always dark when things finally start to wind down. 

Will try this weekend. 

 

[n00dle]

yea, there's no sign of any other holes or work done to the chassis so bit stumped .. but holding some shocks up in this area works well in regards to the axle so I'll go with it, make some brackets up and do a bit of boxing. Cheers for all the help so far gents ? Also managed to get some 3" studs in the right size over here so hopefully almost all my rear end troubles will be gone in a few weeks (touch wood cross fingers etc etc)....

[minicooper]

I think it's 1820657. And I believe It's the same axle I have currently on my '52 B3C - my rear wheels scrubbed the bed just as yours do (I put on spacers to change the width and replaced the original 15" wheels with 16" wheels and 30" tires, tyres  ). I recently picked up a '94 Cherokee with shorter gears to replace it with, just looking for the time to make the swap.

 

This is from a Hemmings Motor News article:

 

Casting numbers 2070742 (used from 1961-1969) and 1634985 (used from 1957-1964) identify the 1 3/4-inch-diameter 10-spline pinion shaft, and are commonly referred to as the “742” case.

Casting numbers 2070741 (1964-1972) and 1820657 (1957-1964) identify the smaller 1 3/8th-inch-diameter, 10-spline pinion shaft, and are often called the “741” case.

Casting numbers 2881488 and 2881489 were used from 1969 through 1974 and were the only cases used after 1973. This is the most sought-after 8 3/4-inch version, and is called the “489” case. The pinion shaft diameter on these rear ends was 1 7/8 inches, and these pinion shafts were either 10- or 29-spline.

 

-Roland

Chatt Hills, GA

[n00dle]

Afternoon all, managed to make up some new mounts for the shocks, spacers are on and the wheels now move without taking half the bodywork with them and I’ve repaired the god awful rusted mess that was the handbrake cable...issue I’m now having is the rear leaf spring bushes. I’ve had a look around and from what I can see the ‘54 uses the U shaped shackles? But my mounts look completely different:

 

any thoughts? Maybe after al this I have a ‘54 body glued to some crap chassis ?.

Replacement ‘original’ bushes are not going to be easy to get hold of so I’m going to make some Delrin ones on the lathe and give them a go. At least with the end of the world there’s plenty of time to tinker. 

[CO54]

Fresh pics of my exposed rear frame spring mounting points. 

Front:

 

Rear:

 

Overall:

[n00dle]

Thanks for those, it does appear that I’m working with a different chassis then...which is a shame as I can actually get the shackles shown on yours ?