John Reddie Posted January 1, 2020 Report Posted January 1, 2020 Here is a tool that I made to remove and replace the harmonic balancers on my '67 Plymouth Fury's with 318 engines. Where they are both automatic transmissions, trying to torque the large balancer bolt can be difficult as the engine begins to turn before the proper torque can be achieved. After removing the pulley, the tool is fastened to the balancer using the pulley bolts. The adjustable piece on the bottom of the tool comes in contact underneath the cross member thus preventing the crankshaft to be turned and the balancer bolt can then be tightened to its proper torque. I have replaced the chains and gears on both cars before and this tool performed admirably. I believe that a similar tool could be fabricated for a P15 or other models too. A Fluid Drive car would truly benefit from this tool I'm sure. Happy New Year John R 2 Quote
John Reddie Posted January 1, 2020 Report Posted January 1, 2020 I apologize for the images being sideways. My computer skills are limited? John R Quote
JBNeal Posted January 2, 2020 Report Posted January 2, 2020 (edited) Just my 2 cents, but clean up + neutralize the rust on that harmonic balancer, use a cutoff disc to trim any extraneous rubber, fill in the rubber gaps with epoxy RTV, trim the cured epoxy RTV flush with the metal, prime + paint black, install Edited January 3, 2020 by JBNeal updated info Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted January 2, 2020 Author Report Posted January 2, 2020 (edited) 47 minutes ago, JBNeal said: Just my 2 cents, but clean up + neutralize the rust on that harmonic balancer, use a cutoff disc to trim any extraneous rubber, fill in the rubber gaps with epoxy, trim the cured epoxy flush with the metal, prime + paint black, install Sounds like a plan except for the epoxy part. I'm thinking black RTV to seal the exposed rubber because I don't want to inhibit the flexibility of the rubber and lose the damper qualities. Thank you for the suggestions. Edited January 2, 2020 by Sam Buchanan 1 Quote
9 foot box Posted January 2, 2020 Report Posted January 2, 2020 I've had hbrepair.com rebuild two P-15 harmonic balancer's. $200 with shipping both ways. I'm very satisfied with the results of both rebuilds. I did chuck up the assembly in a lathe to correct any belt pulley alignment. And there was a bit, that was easily corrected. Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted January 2, 2020 Author Report Posted January 2, 2020 8 minutes ago, 9 foot box said: I've had hbrepair.com rebuild two P-15 harmonic balancer's. $200 with shipping both ways. I'm very satisfied with the results of both rebuilds. I did chuck up the assembly in a lathe to correct any belt pulley alignment. And there was a bit, that was easily corrected. Dale Manufacturing link doesn't work, wonder if they are still in business. Quote
9 foot box Posted January 2, 2020 Report Posted January 2, 2020 He was in July, he takes four months a year off. You could call him tomorrow at 503 364-8685. Clicking on the link doesn't seem to work, you'll have to type it in your own search engine. Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted January 2, 2020 Author Report Posted January 2, 2020 (edited) Got the quote for balancer overhaul from Damper Doctor in Redding, CA. $275 with 2-3 days in the shop. I'm gonna pass but this might be useful info for others. Edited January 2, 2020 by Sam Buchanan Quote
Tooljunkie Posted January 2, 2020 Report Posted January 2, 2020 Go to a local body shop and see if they have a part tube of urethane they would sell. Clean rubber with rubbing alcohol and apply urethane to fill in the cracks. Shouldnt take much and a permanent repair. I hope. Silicone should work, but personally i would use urethane. Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted January 2, 2020 Author Report Posted January 2, 2020 Thank you for the suggestion. We are talking about cosmetic touchup, not structural, I don't think anything that is done on the perimeter of the damper will add to its lifetime. I'm gonna run the old damper as is since it still feels solid and it hasn't rotated. Its patina matches the rest of the engine. Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted January 7, 2020 Author Report Posted January 7, 2020 Speedi-Sleeve for the pulley hub is due to arrive soon. New seal is in place in the timing cover and new gasket has been stuck to the cover with Permatex #2. To get ready for the seal the deep groove in the hub has been filled with JB Weld so the sleeve will have a consistent base: Quote
squirebill Posted January 8, 2020 Report Posted January 8, 2020 For your consideration: when building up my 218, after the speedi sleeve install and getting ready to finally put it all back together....I put some non-hardening pipe threat sealant on the nose of the pulley hub so it would seal against the face of the crankshaft timing gear. Not sure there is a leakage path between the face of the timing gear and the nose of the pulley hub then up the OD of the crankshaft and or along the key/keyway but a swipe of sealant seemed like cheap insurance. 2 Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted January 8, 2020 Author Report Posted January 8, 2020 5 hours ago, squirebill said: For your consideration: when building up my 218, after the speedi sleeve install and getting ready to finally put it all back together....I put some non-hardening pipe threat sealant on the nose of the pulley hub so it would seal against the face of the crankshaft timing gear. Not sure there is a leakage path between the face of the timing gear and the nose of the pulley hub then up the OD of the crankshaft and or along the key/keyway but a swipe of sealant seemed like cheap insurance. Thank you. Did you leave the flange on the Speedi-Sleeve? 1 Quote
squirebill Posted January 8, 2020 Report Posted January 8, 2020 Yes....I left the flange on. Tapped the speedi sleeve on until the edge of the sleeve just cleared the OD radius on the nose of the pulley hub. Used the 99218 sleeve like you ordered. Worked like a charm. Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted January 8, 2020 Author Report Posted January 8, 2020 15 minutes ago, squirebill said: Yes....I left the flange on. Tapped the speedi sleeve on until the edge of the sleeve just cleared the OD radius on the nose of the pulley hub. Used the 99218 sleeve like you ordered. Worked like a charm. Excellent! I had decided, after some measurements, the flange wouldn't be a factor but good to see confirmation. I'm concerned that me trying to remove the flange might incur damage to the sleeve..... Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted January 9, 2020 Author Report Posted January 9, 2020 (edited) The Speedi-Sleeve arrived today so off to the shop. Here is the tool that is included with the sleeve that is used for installation. Place it over the sleeve give a couple of gentle taps with a hammer to get the sleeve started straight, then drive it home. I put a short length of 2x4 on the tool to apply force evenly with the hammer. And the finished result.......good as new! This is what the hub looked like when it came off the leaky car: Edited January 10, 2020 by Sam Buchanan 2 Quote
Tooljunkie Posted January 10, 2020 Report Posted January 10, 2020 I got mine done on monday, the snout on the pulley was brazed and turned down on a lathe sometime in its past life. Pulled pan,cleaned it, and all the other parts. Could have used a timing chain, nothing avaiable locally. a little paint to clean up the appearance and it seems the leak is fixed. At some point a chain was hooked to front bracket and bent out.straightened and its all good now. Welded rad support to frame,as 1 rivet was left holding it on. Truck had a rough life. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted January 10, 2020 Report Posted January 10, 2020 I think a Loc-tite type sealant/retainer compound is used when installing the speedi-sleeves too. 2 Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted January 10, 2020 Author Report Posted January 10, 2020 (edited) text deleted Edited January 10, 2020 by Sam Buchanan Quote
Sniper Posted January 11, 2020 Report Posted January 11, 2020 The snout of that hub looks like it has one gnarly crack in it? Quote
Sam Buchanan Posted January 11, 2020 Author Report Posted January 11, 2020 48 minutes ago, Sniper said: The snout of that hub looks like it has one gnarly crack in it? Yes it does, but appears to be caused by corrosion and seems to be just a surface defect. I'm gonna run it, not worried about it failing. Quote
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