EMPI SPORTSTER BUILD

[Ulu]

I would scrape each groove on the trans input shaft to bare steel before attempting to install the engine. Any rust or dirt there will spoil the clutch pronto.

It can drag and overheat etc. or just be generally jerky. I'd like to see a photo of the wear on the clutch pedal hook. That needs to be in good shape too, or the same issues with rough clutch action will occur.

 

Actually, I'd take the whole day off for Easter, Paul. I can't have the kids over, but I'm going to call them all today.

 

Otherwise I will cook for Judy and maybe make some sketches for fun. 

 

[pflaming]

Prepping and painting, mostly prepping. Possibly engine install on Saturday. 

[pflaming]

Update: when I removed the tan paint I realized how thin it was. When I painted the back panel, black, per Caspers advice, I gave it three coats, the second medium heavy, the final goat heavy by shooting multiple layers to avoid running. That gave me a deep color and a very smooth surface..

 

Therefore, a final 320 wet/dry prep sanding then three coats of paint. 

 

if I wasn’t planning on selling this, I would final sand with 320 wet/dry and four coats of gloss clear. 

 

Edited April 16, 2020 by pflaming

[Ulu]

Did you get the welding all done?

I didn't think you were on to paint yet.

[pflaming]

Someone looked at this and said “A funky car needs a funky color”!    As a patina admirer, possibly so.  Maybe get to the welding tomorrow. 
 

stay tuned. 

[DJ194950]

Ready for clear mostly, maybe some homemade patina for the fenders?

[Merle Coggins]

Paint it in a tie dye theme... ?

[Ulu]

It's gonna have MIG splatter.  ?

 

Cover it up well and weld that frame buddy!

 

[pflaming]

Getting the mounts correct for the top rack. Also, started practicing how to use my new wire welder so I can weld those mounting plates, etc.

 

Edited May 7, 2020 by pflaming

[pflaming]

Detailed ny United States plaque to go on the front bed rails. Should show quite nicely.

[pflaming]

Frame, roll bar, etc., all repainted, rack back on. Today, clutch cable, pedal assembly, accelerator cable, fuel line, battery wire installations.   Engine installation Tuesday.  Startup on Wednesday I hope. Getting very close.  End of week, final body prep work so I can paint on Friday. 

[Ulu]

I just realized that you don’t have a voltage regulator. On a dune buggy they would normally be screwed on the fan shroud by the generator.

 

But on cars they are either under the backseat, or on the body, inside the engine compartment.

 

You don’t have a back seat, you don’t have an engine compartment, and I don’t see a regulator on your fan shroud.

 

 

[pflaming]

I bolted in the engine yesterday. Will connect AII cables and lines today. Start up on Monday. It’s getting interesting.

 

 

Edited May 7, 2020 by pflaming

[Dan Hiebert]

Those two air hose attachment points at 3 and 9 o'clock on the fan shroud should be plugged.  With the tins on the motor, as you have, the fan shroud is what will be cooling the engine.  With those two points open, the cooling will not be as effective, and the engine may run hot.  Those are for attaching the heater hoses to those oval-ish things attached to the muffler, which in turn provide the air movement over the exhaust to heat the (former) car.  The heater accouterments are just extra unnecessary stuff on your car.  I understand your going to sell it and may not be interested in the extra work/expense, but getting rid of that extra stuff would neaten it up, maybe make it more appealing.    

[pflaming]

Dan, res there are items to cover and remove. Now that it’s on the car those will be attended to. Monday and Tuesday will make all the connections,  ,on Wednesday a VW knowledgeable friendly is coming for final inspection and startup. 
 

then rear brakes and rear suspension.

 

[Dan Hiebert]

I figured you had it covered.  Looking forward to the finished product!

[pflaming]

I had pieces formed to lengthen the ends of the fenders..the welder did a great welding job except on the wrong end!!  So will reverse them, fit the front edge and have new pieces formed.for the tail light ends. Will be a better set of fenders. One of the many reasons a build takes time.

 

Edited May 7, 2020 by pflaming

[48Dodger]

Glad to know you're in the garage Paul and not in the hospital......keep at it brother!

 

48D

[pflaming]

With A knee that needs a cortisone shot, appt May 6, and accrue arthritis it is not so easy any more.  Received my new headlights. Temp mount, I really like them.

[pflaming]

Preliminary Cardboard pattern fender addition and park lights on order. Motor cycle light assembly, will disassemble to get those small lights, then mount them below the headlights. Getting there. Working to. Connect all to the engine and run wires for lights. I’m much slower, but trying to work some each day. 

 

 

Edited May 7, 2020 by pflaming

[Ulu]

Dang!

 

I knew I wasn’t going to talk you out of those cardboard mudflaps!

[pflaming]

Cardboard pattern to sheet metal shop today. Then got proper socket and wrench combination to break the axle nuts loose. Drums come off tomorrow.

 

Edited May 7, 2020 by pflaming

[Dan Hiebert]

Yeah, those rear axle nuts can be a bear.  I only got the ones off my bug this winter by heating the nut, didn't have the open space you do to use a good cheater bar.  I like your prep, but your car is light enough that you could still pull it off the jack stands with that rig before they break loose, please be careful!  Asks for 215 lbs. torque to put them back on.

[pflaming]

I did pull it off.

[Ulu]

Good to see you got it apart.

 

Normally I wouldn't use a cheater bar on a ratchet.

It's rough on the small teeth. You can split the head.

 

I have a breaker bar for that stuff.