Fuel pump and carburetor help

[Batman13]

Hey all, just installed a fuel pump and new fuel line from pump to carburetor also a fuel line from pump to fuel line from tank. Blew out fuel lines with compressed air and I am getting fuel to the carburetor. Went on a test drive seemed to be going well, after 10 minutes car would stall when I pressed the accelerator. If I let off the accelerator the car would idle fine, but as soon as I tried to accelerate the car sounded like it was about to back fire and then it would stop. Maybe the choke, but I have a manual choke so I am hoping that one of you may have gone through this before and can help.I also replaced the carburetor.

 

Edited September 26, 2019 by Batman13

[Los_Control]

What condition is the tank in?

You did not mention it, but if lines are due for replacement I would imagine the tank needs some attention.

Could be a piece of crap floating in the tank, and getting sucked to the line and plugging it up.

[Jeff Balazs]

A couple of possibilities come to mind. Might want to check the accelerator pump itself to see if the leather is dried out or cracked. While you are at it you might also check the step up circuit to see if it is clean. These are the best suggestions I have not knowing anything about your car.

Hth, Jeff

[Sam Buchanan]

Beautiful car!

 

Your stated the problem started after the engine warmed up. Check the idle mixture (not idle speed), it is adjusted with a screw on the side of the carb. You seem to be describing a lean mixture that appears after the engine gets hot. Try slowly turning the mixture screw each direction for smoothest idle (this is a rough adjustment) and see if the stalling problem is diminished.

 

You do have a Service Manuel....right?   

 

Edited September 27, 2019 by Sam Buchanan

[Batman13]

Sam, yes I do have a manual both shop and detailed manual. I will check that out, appreciate the quick response. I'll let you know how it turns out. Again, thanks Sam.

 

[greg g]

Flow test

Pull coil wire from the coil

Disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump.

Direct the line into a suitable container, glass or plastic

Have an assistant engage the starter

Count 12 strokes of the pump

Stop cranking 

You should have 8 to 10ounces of gas in your container, if not you have insufficient flow to sustain normal driving.

[Batman13]

@Los Control, I had the tank cleaned about 3 years ago maybe more. There are no leaks in the lines and I did blow out the line from the front to the fuel tank. I did remove the line  from the tank only residual fuel was blown out. I held a paper towel at the end to see if there was any gunk, seemed to be okay. 

[Batman13]

Jeff Balaz, thanks for the info. I will check on  the accelerator pump. I appreciate all of the information. Thanks, I'll let you know if it worked. Last resort a new carburetor.

[greg g]

What kind of condition is the hose from the frame to the fuel pump inletin.  5hey can look fine but copllapse under suction stopping flow.

[greg g]

Next thing, check the thinwire inside the distributor to make sure it insulation is ok and not grounding out to then body when the breakerplate moves.

[joecoozie]

If you let the car sit and the engine cools off will it run okay?

If so, check the coil. It could be breaking down as it heats up. A friend of mine had this issue with his car. It would start, run for a few minutes and then die. Wound up being a bad coil.

 

[Tony WestOZ]

You mention that you replaced the carby.

Did the problems start before or after the carby was replaced?

 

Tony

[bobus8]

I have to second what joecoozie said about the coil.  Several years ago I had a similar problem where the car would run for 12 miles on the highway and then cut off.  After a 5 or 10 minute cool down the car ran fine for another 12 miles.  New coil fixed the problem.  BTW, it also burned up the wire from the ignition switch.

[Sam Buchanan]

1 hour ago, joecoozie said:

If you let the car sit and the engine cools off will it run okay?

If so, check the coil. It could be breaking down as it heats up. A friend of mine had this issue with his car. It would start, run for a few minutes and then die. Wound up being a bad coil.

 

 

11 minutes ago, bobus8 said:

I have to second what joecoozie said about the coil.  Several years ago I had a similar problem where the car would run for 12 miles on the highway and then cut off.  After a 5 or 10 minute cool down the car ran fine for another 12 miles.  New coil fixed the problem.  BTW, it also burned up the wire from the ignition switch.

 

He stated the engine would die only when he tried to accelerate...it idled fine otherwise. The engine isn't shutting off.

[soth122003]

Sounds like something obstructing the run circuit in the carb. Pull it and clean it, should work fine after. If it doesn't, check the generator out put. I had my genny go bad one time and I had a 30 mile trip to the house. As I was driving home the battery was dying trying to run the engine. Could only do about 40 mph on the way home and when I got there the car would idle but not accelerate. Something to check just to be sure.

 

Joe Lee

[bobus8]

19 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said:

 

 

He stated the engine would die only when he tried to accelerate...it idled fine otherwise. The engine isn't shutting off.

Sam, he said "If I let off the accelerator the car would idle fine, but as soon as I tried to accelerate the car sounded like it was about to back fire and then it would stop."  I'm just saying that a really weak spark can cause these exact symptoms.  Also, he already replaced everything in the fuel system including the carburetor and still has the same symptoms.  BTW, mine displayed the exact same symptoms before it would stop. 

Also, Batman13, pull your coil wire and crank the engine to see what  your spark looks like.  It should have some blue in it.  Completely orange is an indication of a weak coil.

[Sam Buchanan]

1 minute ago, bobus8 said:

Sam, he said "If I let off the accelerator the car would idle fine, but as soon as I tried to accelerate the car sounded like it was about to back fire and then it would stop."  I'm just saying that a really weak spark can cause these exact symptoms.  Also, he already replaced everything in the fuel system including the carburetor and still has the same symptoms.  BTW, mine displayed the exact same symptoms before it would stop. 

Also, Batman13, pull your coil wire and crank the engine to see what  your spark looks like.  It should have some blue in it.  Completely orange is an indication of a weak coil.

 

Ok.   

 

I'm sure he'll get it running smoothly.

[bumpercerguy]

Sam with engine off air filter remover look down  into the carb with flashlight hand on throttle slightly i mean slightly move the throttle is their a squirt of gas from the accelerator pump?

[Sam Buchanan]

This is getting complicated......  ? 

 

My car runs great.......I'm not the original poster. But your suggestion to check the accelerator pump is valid.

Edited September 28, 2019 by Sam Buchanan