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Posted
8 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

 

Put your hand down near the junction between the intake and exhaust manifold while the car is idling.....bet you will find that gasket is blown out and the exhaust is put-putting....   :)

 

Thank you! I have been suspecting this already. How difficult is it to replace this gasket?

Posted

not for the faint of heart....often these bolts that secure the two manifolds have pretty much seen so many heat cycles with erosion over time and the such....probably be a bear taking it down without breaking the bolts...and taking the 13 retainers off the manifold assembly to remove from the car not counting the pipe retainers....some times one will have difficulties here...and do follow the instructions going back so to get proper manifold(s) alignment before securing the bolts holding these together...they are the last torqued item...they go on loose while fitting the manifolds back to the engine....

  • Like 1
Posted
2 minutes ago, tjlarson88 said:

 

Thank you! I have been suspecting this already. How difficult is it to replace this gasket?

 

Removing the manifold can be straight forward.....or a nightmare. 

 

Read this thread starting with post #85 to see how bad it can get:

 

http://p15-d24.com/topic/49976-the-windward-48-dodge-survivor/page/4/#comments

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

When an intake valve is stuck open it can also sound like a leaking exhaust manifold gasket. The sound of forced rushed air can be heard coming out of the carb. It indeed sounds like a ticking exhaust  manifold leak. 

 

Just be aware. 

Edited by keithb7
  • Like 1
Posted
1 minute ago, Sam Buchanan said:

 

Removing the manifold can be straight forward.....or a nightmare. 

 

Read this thread starting with post #85 to see how bad it can get:

 

http://p15-d24.com/topic/49976-the-windward-48-dodge-survivor/page/4/#comments

 

That's what I'm afraid of. Does this require removing both manifolds?

Posted
14 minutes ago, tjlarson88 said:

 

That's what I'm afraid of. Does this require removing both manifolds?

Yes, both have to come off together. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Just keep your chin up and have the right attitude  :)

Your goal here is to restore the manifolds to good working order.

Be real careful taking the brass nuts off that bolt the manifold to the block, I am guessing you have a good chance removing these without breaking the studs. I would try to save them. Be a pita drilling them out with the engine in the car. But it is doable, just another job.

 

I would almost bet money all the other bolts will break. The bolts holding the exhaust pipe to the flange, no big deal you want to replace them anyways.

Same with the bolts holding the 2 manifolds together, there is the gasket between them that you are after. those bolts are guaranteed to break.

But now you have the manifold on your work bench, you can just take your time and drill out the broken bolts and repair the threads.

 

It will be a job, just think how proud you will be every time you open the hood and see the nice painted manifolds with new bolts and new gaskets

Knowing that it will be the last time you have to do that job on this car. :D

Posted
6 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said:

 

Put your hand down near the junction between the intake and exhaust manifold while the car is idling.....bet you will find that gasket is blown out and the exhaust is put-putting....   :)

 

The gasket is gone in my '48 P15 but until I get around to pulling the manifolds (ughhhhh) I made a steel plate that slides into that gap in between the (broken off) bolts and stops most of the leak. The carb heater flap is wedged closed by the plate.

 

manifold.jpg.b719d49f2e3fd792e4bbbaf9945a4719.jpg

 

The carb heat riser on mine does move (the lowers piece pictured does turn by hand and when the motor is running (should it have a spring on it?) there is a similar piece where the bolt pictured is installed, but that does not turn. Will having the heat riser closed cause any issues? I might try this same thing for now to see if the sound changes.

Posted

Closed to the carb heat chamber is fully clock wise.  I my flap is welded horizontal, the shaft pulled and the hospital welded closed.   No cold weather issues when I drive it into late November.

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