stucked oil ring in T214

[Spencer1]

Yes, looks very high. But I have no idea if the cylinder head has been machined in the past or if my compression tester is accurate.

But all this doesnt tell you anything about the condition of the oil rings. So I have to pay the oil or to pull the pistons

[kencombs]

One other possibility, however remotely possible.  Some of the early military engines were fitted with a PCV system along with other modifications for deep water fording.  Is it possible that yours has remnants of of one of those pulling oil from the crankcase?  Maybe some pics of the engine would help?

[Plymouthy Adams]

this was one of the first suggestion, the oil breather and the draft tube...he states both are up to standards...….that says he is sure of the breather is correct and not plugged, the draft tube is also correct, diffuser in place and the tube at the correct angle to the road.  Technically by the mans own words it is yet a low mileage engine that has sat 10 years between start up and ultimate break in of new components....

[Spencer1]

Yes, Thats correct. The whole crankcase ventilation system is original and standard. No fording kit. In addition I have cleaned it completely. Also the valve on the Carburetor side.

I think the most reliable theorie is that the old and used oil in the oil rings has got gummy during these 10 years of stillstanding. And the drainig holes in the pistons are closed by this gummy.

[Plymouthy Adams]

oh my gosh, I was not aware till now that you are running this on oil that has been exposed and idle for 10 years.....me thinks a oil is needed EVEN IF it does not cure your ails...but to protect other vital internals 

[Spencer1]

You are joking! Of course I changed the oil the day after buying it. But I had to do 40 miles to get it home. 

Today I changed my oil because I was running since them always with 20W50. Now I have SAE30 inside. I want to see if this influences the oil consumption. The last trial before pulling the pistons

Edited July 27, 2019 by Spencer1

[Plymouthy Adams]

I replied to our post #29. as written, it inferred you still had that oil in the crankcase.....thus my reply

 

Posted 29 minutes ago

Yes, Thats correct. The whole crankcase ventilation system is original and standard. No fording kit. In addition I have cleaned it completely. Also the valve on the Carburetor side.

I think the most reliable theorie is that the old and used oil in the oil rings has got gummy during these 10 years of stillstanding. And the drainig holes in the pistons are closed by this gummy.

 

Edited July 27, 2019 by Plymouthy Adams

[Veemoney]

Spencer,

Thanks for posting the pictures, really nice looking engine compartment that I am sure speaks to the overall quality of the vehicle restoration. 

 

"All cylinders between 136 and 153 PSI."  seems high as you stated but consider the variance between cylinders could indicate the motor is still fresh after only a bit over 600 miles on the break-in plus the additional miles since you have acquired it leaves me to lean toward it still needs some breaking in to even out the cylinder compression or based on your thoughts it is gummed up or a combination of the two.

 

So my suggestion is to go the route of adding the MMO / Rislone  and get a few more tanks of gas through it to see if the extra miles will help to seat the rings on the lower compression cylinders if that is an issue and clear any gummed up rings. I say this thinking if the compression rings are not 100% seated so it is possible the oil rings are not as well. Either way the oil and gas additives should help along with the additional miles of driving.

 

If your still having issues after a few tanks of gas then my next step would be to check the compression again to see if it has improved /changed or next pull the head to look at the bores to see if there are any indications in the cylinders before I would start pulling all the pistons.

 

Just my thoughts, Good Luck

[The Way]

If they did not have the piston bores cleaned up when they worked on the engine, it is also possible the bores have 'dished out' in the middle. I believe this could give you good compression at the top, but, let oil by in the middle.

[Spencer1]

Yes, thank you all. That’s exactly what I believe. So I will treat it with Snake Oil from the fuel and engine oil side. If this doesn’t help I will pull the pistons out, hoping the bore is still in good conditions. Would not be the first time to start with a small issue and ending up disassembling the whole engine.

cheers Mike

[squirebill]

Rebuilt engine with good compression, good oil pressure and 1000 km since overhaul.  I would give it another 1000 km of driving to properly "break -in" the engine and let rings properly seat in the cylinders.  Will probably see a decrease in oil consumption as engine components wear in.  Just my 2 cents.  Regards 

[kencombs]

8 hours ago, Spencer1 said:

Yes, thank you all. That’s exactly what I believe. So I will treat it with Snake Oil from the fuel and engine oil side. If this doesn’t help I will pull the pistons out, hoping the bore is still in good conditions. Would not be the first time to start with a small issue and ending up disassembling the whole engine.

cheers Mike

sounds like a plan, although I would add some of the Snake Oil directly to the cylinder, through the spark plug hole , to a warm engine.  Most effective way to hasten the sticky's softening.

[squirebill]

I guess I must be missing what seems to be obvious to others.  Can someone explain to me how losing one quart of oil in 300 km is the result of the oil scraper rings on the pistons. I guess I'm just not understanding something.  I agree that adding the "snake oil" to the engine would be OK.  Some people do it every oil change just as a maintenance item.  My problem with this situation is that once the snake oil is added and if the oil consumption continues the next step seems to be pulling the engine apart.  So the result is to disassemble an engine that has good compression and oil pressure.  Doesn't seem to make sense to me.  You can buy alot of oil for the price of the new gasket kit that would be necessary to reassemble what seems to be well operating rebuilt engine .  Regards.

[Radarsonwheels]

Agreed. I ran plenty of motors that used a quart per thousand miles or so and I was happy to add oil once in a while. Now when gas station stops involve checking the gas and adding oil, or when 1/2 throttle results in a spy hunter smokescreen behind  you then maybe it’s time for a teardown. 

 

My best advice is drive it like you stole it for a while and see if things clear up some.

[T120]

Back in the 60's I owned a mid 50's OHV V8 powered car using hydraulic lifters that developed an annoying and persistant tapping noise. I was using the best Shell engine oil on the market at that time, (the higher priced stuff),so it wasn't that I was cheap on either the product or neglecting maintenance. I don't as a rule use any additives or a lubricant that promises that it will cure a problem that may arise be it in the engine or transmission. As far as one lubricant being better than the other, I am more interested in buying the steak rather than paying for the sizzle...That said I bought a quart of Rislone and added to the crankcase oil and within a very short time with the engine idling the annoying tapping noise completely disappeared. Rislone at that time came in a metal can rather than a plastic bottle,not sure if the formula is still the same.I only used it that one time and it did the job...?

Edited May 25, 2020 by T120
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