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Spencer1

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About Spencer1

  • Birthday 12/28/1962

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Germany, Aachen
  • Interests
    Oldtimer, Riding
  • My Project Cars
    Dodge WC 51

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Born on 28th of December 1962, working in an enginnering company for Automotive Industry
  • Occupation
    Management Automotive engineering

Converted

  • Location
    Germany, Aachen
  • Interests
    Engines

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  1. Yes Gentlemen, I am from Germany and my English is .... Tomorrow I will get the engine back from the workshop. Halleluja! We decided to go for a cold play of 0,045 mm or 0.0018 inch for piston and bore. This is very few in comparision to modern engines. But the original pistons are fitted with nearly 0 play, only by 6 pounds of force to pass through the bore. Explanation may be that the specific power of the engine is very low and the inner cooling by fat mixture is high. So I dont expect major troubles. I will keep you informed Best Regards and stay healthy.
  2. I am pretty sure that you are right. But the clearance of only 0,0015 sounds very strange I will try to contact them
  3. Dear all Unfortunately I had to disassemble my engine due to a huge oil consumption. Reason was a totally worne liner. In the workshop we saw that we had to go for 0,60 oversize. I got now new pistons in 0,60. But not originals. The ones I got are from Federal Mogul, very basic pistons, 37P for engines 218 and 230 ci My question: The original pistons have, as far as I know, a play of 0,0030 to 0,00374 inches. The minimal Play for the new FM Pistons is, following Federal Mogul, 0.015 inch. see attached picture. This is extreme small. Does anyone know, by experience, which is the best Play for liner and piston for this engine? Its important for the reboring of the liner. Many thanks in advance and best regards, Michael
  4. Yes, thank you all. That’s exactly what I believe. So I will treat it with Snake Oil from the fuel and engine oil side. If this doesn’t help I will pull the pistons out, hoping the bore is still in good conditions. Would not be the first time to start with a small issue and ending up disassembling the whole engine. cheers Mike
  5. You are joking! Of course I changed the oil the day after buying it. But I had to do 40 miles to get it home. Today I changed my oil because I was running since them always with 20W50. Now I have SAE30 inside. I want to see if this influences the oil consumption. The last trial before pulling the pistons
  6. Yes, Thats correct. The whole crankcase ventilation system is original and standard. No fording kit. In addition I have cleaned it completely. Also the valve on the Carburetor side. I think the most reliable theorie is that the old and used oil in the oil rings has got gummy during these 10 years of stillstanding. And the drainig holes in the pistons are closed by this gummy.
  7. Yes, looks very high. But I have no idea if the cylinder head has been machined in the past or if my compression tester is accurate. But all this doesnt tell you anything about the condition of the oil rings. So I have to pay the oil or to pull the pistons
  8. I did the compression test with warm engine and wide open throttle. And a new 6 volt starter which runs really fast. All cylinders between 136 and 153 PSI. Or in SI units: 9,4 to 10,6 bar. The technical Manual wants to see around 100 PSI with a maximum tolerance of 20%. My compression instrument is not calibrated. But all values are looking pretty high and the tolerance is about +/- 5%. Thats absolutely ok for my understanding. In addition I changed the 20w50 to a SAE30 oil to check the influence of the oil regarding my high consumption. But what I will never understand is that the manual and everybody tells about a total of 5 qts of engine oil until its full. But my dip stick needs 6 qts to indicate full. I checked the dip stick and its tube with others dodges of the same type and there is no difference. And I dont no nothing about different oil pans. Any way, an overfilling is not the cause of the high consumption because even if the level is at half, it continious consuming too much.
  9. I will do the compression test on weekend, warm. After this I will change my oil to SAE 30. Lets see what happens
  10. Hi Jeff A friend of mine, engineer at Ford and having several WW2 US army vehicles and tanks is saying the same. He is absolutely against snake oils. But visiting Brasil he saw that they are using a lot MMO to keep their fuel systems clean. You may know that Brazil is using a high content of Biofuel in their stuff. In Europe we have the same problem because they are mixing the fuel with 5-10% Ethanol. And this causes a lot of problems with the old engines and fuel systems such as tank corrosion, dirty carburetors etc. Especially when they are parked during the winter period. Since he is mixing MMO to his vehicles he has no problems any more. I believe him. There must be solvent in the MMO which helps here. Regarding my oil consumption problem I will change the 20W50 oil to SAE30. Maybe that during the normal operation the 20W50 is thinner than the SAE 30. I will look for a VT diagram. Michael
  11. Hi Frank Coolant rail = water distribution tube. Ventilator = down draft tube ? Breather = oil crank case tube breather or air breather ? Yes, sorry. Thats German English. Ventilator should be "fan"? My breather is a small filter element fitted to the the tube to the crankcase where you are adding engine oil
  12. Yes, maybe a complex problem. But the car has a normal fuel consumption, comparing to others with the same type. Carburetor is Zenith, clean and without any problem as far as I can see. Maybe I have to clean the air filter to reduce the pressure loss? I havent done this before because I got the car 2000 miles ago..
  13. Thanks all I am using a oldtimer 20W50 oil from Liqui Moli with low additives. Unfortunately I have no idea if the engine was rebuild completely or if they fixed only head and crankshaft bearing. However the oil pump and bearings must be in a very good shape, showing maximum pressure of 50 at normal speed. The coolant rail in the engine block was replaced by a new one. The crankcase ventilation is completely cleaned. I tried also to protect the breather against the ventilator, but with no results. There is no pressure coming from the ventilator. Last weekend I tried an anticarbon treatment with verylube to remove the soot from combustion chamber and rings, but no results. Even at starting the engine after one night having the anticarbon inside there was absoltuely no smoke, nothing. I thought my neighbors would kill me but no trace of the anticarbon. So I assume it has passed by the rings and disappeared in the engine oil. After running 30 miles, Spark plugs are covered again with satin black soot, but not oily at all. Elektrodes are free and normal. Next weekend I will do a compression test with warm engine.But this doesnt tell me anything about the oil rings.
  14. Thanks a lot I heard already a lot of adding ATF or brakefluid. I think that will be a chance before removing the pistons. Cheers
  15. Thanks, but Rislone increases the oil viskosity. My problem is different. My compression rings seem to be ok but the oil rings cant move and are stucked because old oil and carbon is closing the small pistons drenage bores. So I have to get this carbon or old oil dissolved to get this rings moving and sealing again
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