block crack, UGH

[squirebill]

My thoughts exactly.  Radiator cap seemed like an easy way to develop pressure in the system.

[ggdad1951]

Jeff, I don't think a pressure cap will seal because the overfill tube is below the seal is all I'm saying.

[DJ194950]

A thought-

How about putting a pressure regulated hose sealed to the original overflow tube as long as the Radiator cap is sealed to the tank to put say just 4-6 lbs. pressure in the system and  warm up the motor??

 

Just wondering.

 

DJ

[Stratos]

I am running Evans Coolant with a no-pressure cap.  I have had no overheating issues.  Even going this route I would still try to fix the crack with and inverted V-grind and  JB Weld or Devcon metal putty as described.  I ran Evans coolant in my '64 Buick Electra and the radiator wasn't up to the job so the heat light came on occasionally so I switched back to regular antifreeze but never a problem with the Dodge.

[TFC]

OK guys, appreciate all the input, here's what I did. Guess I went "rogue" on this, have had luck repairing/patching a rusted through oil pan and differential cover with this method.  Brass shim stock and RTV silicon, kind of a Band-aid approach.  Thoroughly cleaned the area, generously coated the "Band-Aid" with RTV and applied, let it sit 24 hours before refilling the system.  No leaks so far and the patch sits behind the oil filter and is hard to see, this gets me pass this leak(at least for a while) and allows me to get on with all the other stuff I need to do to get him back on the road. 

[squirebill]

That ought to do it.  Stick with something you have experience with.  Good on ya.

[Jeff Balazs]

It should work Mark; I pressure tested mine and ran a 4# cap for a while. Without some pressure on the system Bars leak has little chance of sealing anything.

Jeff

[ggdad1951]

1 hour ago, Jeff Balazs said:

It should work Mark; I pressure tested mine and ran a 4# cap for a while. Without some pressure on the system Bars leak has little chance of sealing anything.

Jeff

huh, well maybe I'll try it again then, just have to be careful as I know I had a small crack fixed on my bottom tank I don't want to bust loose.

[Jeff Balazs]

Mark;

I would think whoever repaired would have pressure tested the repair. Should have? When I had my original radiator re-cored the fellow that owned the shop said it was tested at 12# and that I could run it with a 12# cap if I wanted. After I put it all back together I borrowed a tester and pumped it up to to 12# for an hour and it held. If you have a original honeycomb core then I would not go that high. I would think 4# or so would be fine. Fwiw I don't think I would be comfortable using it if it won't hold a bit of pressure......even if it is at zero most of the time.

Jeff

[Dodgeb4ya]

Some radiator /block sealers seal up more than expected.

[Los_Control]

3 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Some radiator /block sealers seal up more than expected.

Sad that today many products we used in the past are no longer available.

I use to use a product that looked like molasses,  while having rabbit turds in it.

This stuff worked great, and lubed your water pump while at it .... I had a 1960 Dodge fleetside with 6 holes in the radiator, drove it for 2 years  and the product cured it perfectly.

When I lost a fan belt, it overheated and lost the coolant .... I fixed it and the radiator again had 6 holes, I again added the molasses + rabbit turds, and sold the truck another year or two later. .... today the product has the same name, but does not work the same  

[DJ194950]

Must have had sometime the EPA no longer approves for human consumption hence not fit for a radiator either!  ?

 

DJ

[nkeiser]

My 218 has a very similar looking crack in almost the exact same place. I just got done fixing it this evening with JB Weld Extreme Heat that I had leftover from fixing a hole I made in the exhaust port.