Heater Control Valve

[Jocko_51_B3B]

The seat of the heater control valve has some pitting and corrosion. I don't have a good seal because I can blow through the valve even when fully closed.

Is there a way to refurbish the valve seat to prevent it from bypassing?

On the other hand,  the silvery colored tubular valve stem has two 1/4 inch slits cut into it at the seating surface which appear to allow a small amount of coolant to bypass through the valve even when closed. Why the engineers wanted to allow a small leak past the seat is a mystery to me. But the main issue is the valve seat.

 

 

 

 

Edited February 26, 2019 by Jocko_51_B3B

[Young Ed]

Not sure on the seat question but you can get a rebuild kit for an early vette that fits. Of course because its a vette part its not cheap!

[ggdad1951]

Just FYI....that's not the "stock" valve

[Jocko_51_B3B]

I appreciate knowing that I've probably been sold the wrong part. I'll definitely be contacting the vendor. Do you know what the correct valve looks like? The vendor claimed it was used on Dodge pickups and Power Wagons from 1948 to 1957. I'd like to see the correct valve installed on someone's truck. Thanks again!

 

 

 

 

Edited February 28, 2019 by Jocko_51_B3B

[Brent B3B]

Glenn, in my opinion, I think in the parts book there is two different part numbers for that valve.

only about six of us would look at the one you have and question it and out of that six, only one of us would really care, if it is correct or not.

 

if you don't keep that valve PM me, cause I wont care what the other five think

(this is not a solicitation of parts or classified add outside the proper avenue)

 

 

[Jeff Balazs]

The valve you have was a commonly available item back in the day. Heaters were an option item as well and could be installed by a dealership or local garage. I would venture a guess that most were added after the factory had sent the truck out to the dealership.

I added a heater and a fresh air kit to my truck during my build. Glad I did this year. ? The defroster has been particularly handy.

I have the same valve you have and it works just fine. Been using it every morning lately.

Jeff

[Young Ed]

4 hours ago, Jocko_51_B3B said:

I appreciate knowing that I've probably been sold the wrong part. I'll definitely be contacting the vendor. Do you know what the correct valve looks like? The vendor claimed it was used on Dodge pickups and Power Wagons from 1948 to 1957. I'd like to see the correct valve installed on someone's truck. Thanks again!

 

 

 

 

I do believe that is a mopar valve it's just not the one in the picture in the parts book. My 48 and 51 Plymouths both came with that valve and both were very untouched cars. This one actually makes more sense than the one pictured in the parts book as that one has a built in Y function. The Y style is what I am supposed to have on my 48 with dual heaters however I have the same one you have. 

[ggdad1951]

On 2/28/2019 at 8:31 AM, Jocko_51_B3B said:

I appreciate knowing that I've probably been sold the wrong part. I'll definitely be contacting the vendor. Do you know what the correct valve looks like? The vendor claimed it was used on Dodge pickups and Power Wagons from 1948 to 1957. I'd like to see the correct valve installed on someone's truck. Thanks again!

 

 

 

 

 

if you go to the parts book and look it up you'll see a (bad IMO) picture of a small "Y" valve.  I'll see if I can find the post I did on trying to repair one so you can see what it looked like better.  These are RARE in working order and I paid a hefty sum for the one(s) I have obtained.

[ggdad1951]

here it is:

 

stupid photobucket crap still haunting me...

 

[Jocko_51_B3B]

Thanks to all who posted responses about these valves. My repro parts book shows some (not too good) pictures of valves on pages 1-5, 1-6, and 1-7. The one on 1-7 (the Y-valve) is the only one in the book that looks to me like it is cable-controlled from inside the cab. It IS completely different from the one I have. But it's good to hear that the valve I recently bought (for way too much money) is installed in other period Mopars.

 

These trucks do have their share of idiosyncrasies.

 

ggdad1951,

Thanks for looking up the post from 2011. It does shed light on the valve situation.

 

For me, the one question that remains is about the tubular valve stem used in my valve. It has those two slits at its bottom end (see my original post) where it normally seats. Those slits look like a deliberate design feature to cause a small amount of leakage past the seat. Why that would be good, I'm not sure. Anyway, mine won't have problems bypassing (if that is good) because I'm pretty certain the corrosion in the seat will let some coolant leak past too. I'll get some heat in July whether I need it or not!

 

 

Edited March 1, 2019 by Jocko_51_B3B

[Jeff Balazs]

Jocko;

I don't remember if mine has those slits. I don't think they would have much effect on the system though. Could even be there as a sort of "Freeze" protection for the system? I have another manual shut off valve on top of the water pump housing so the system can be isolated during the hot months. The whole things looks and functions period and for most of us that is good enough.

Jeff

[Jocko_51_B3B]

Jeff,

I've been thinking of adding a manual shut off too. I haven't yet gone through the heater to make it operational, but once the heater is up and running I can't see a reason to have any coolant circulating through it in the summer. Even during the winter months I will probably rarely drive the truck being in Illinois - not because it isn't cold here -  but because I don't want to expose the truck to road salt. When I finally get time to go over the heater I'd like to see if there's an easy way to drain it. Why have coolant in it at all except for the very rare occasions when it might be used in cold weather?

Glenn (aka Jocko)

Edited March 2, 2019 by Jocko_51_B3B

[JBNeal]

it is my understanding that fresh coolant displaces oxygen to limit oxidation...the aftermarket heater in my '49 only has a manual shutoff valve, stuck in the open position...on cool days below 70, it gets the cab toasty enough I can keep the window open to give my (legal) hand signals for turning and whutnot...but on most days that it's well over 70, I am reminded just how much I don't need a heater in that truck for 6 months out of the year

[Jocko_51_B3B]

Displacing oxygen would explain the slits. That's something to consider before draining the heater.

Edited March 2, 2019 by Jocko_51_B3B

[MBF]

With any type of valve (dash operated or the under hood petcock type) I think I'd want coolant in the heating circuit-especially if you run antifreeze in your system.  That will reduce the probability of corrosion, and since the valve is only on 1 end of the circuit, unless it seals 100% you're probably still going to have coolant in it.  I turn mine off under the hood in the spring, and on in the fall.  Sometimes over the summer I'll move the valves on all my old stuff so they don't seize up.   Just my 2 cents.

[ggdad1951]

On 3/2/2019 at 7:12 AM, Jocko_51_B3B said:

Jeff,

I've been thinking of adding a manual shut off too. I haven't yet gone through the heater to make it operational, but once the heater is up and running I can't see a reason to have any coolant circulating through it in the summer. Even during the winter months I will probably rarely drive the truck being in Illinois - not because it isn't cold here -  but because I don't want to expose the truck to road salt. When I finally get time to go over the heater I'd like to see if there's an easy way to drain it. Why have coolant in it at all except for the very rare occasions when it might be used in cold weather?

Glenn (aka Jocko)

 

I generally open my valve a few times over the summer for a bit, just to circulate the coolant around in there and to (hopefully) keep the valve from locking up.

[Jeff Balazs]

On 3/2/2019 at 5:12 AM, Jocko_51_B3B said:

Jeff,

I've been thinking of adding a manual shut off too. I haven't yet gone through the heater to make it operational, but once the heater is up and running I can't see a reason to have any coolant circulating through it in the summer. Even during the winter months I will probably rarely drive the truck being in Illinois - not because it isn't cold here -  but because I don't want to expose the truck to road salt. When I finally get time to go over the heater I'd like to see if there's an easy way to drain it. Why have coolant in it at all except for the very rare occasions when it might be used in cold weather?

Glenn (aka Jocko)

Glenn;

I have that manual valve on mine to be able to isolate the heating system. Got to have a fitting there anyway...so why not a valve? It gets real hot here so no need for a heater except a couple of months this winter. Not needed that past 3 winters.....

Jeff

[Jocko_51_B3B]

 

The consensus seems to be that it's OK, but not necessary, to have some slight flow through the heater even in the summer. It's going to be interesting to see how much heat my heater will put out even with the valve closed thanks to the slits at the bottom of the valve stem combined with a less than perfect valve seat surface. If I decide I want the option of shutting off flow to the heater completely I can always add an in-line shut off valve in the hose. I saw one for sale on VPW's site in the cooling section.

 

I have a somewhat related question; does anyone know of a source for a diagram that clearly shows the flow of coolant through a flathead six and how the flow gets switched when the thermostat opens and closes? I'm a little confused by the holes in the back of the water pump. All I know for sure is that the pump pushes the coolant out through the oblong hole into the water distribution tube and down through the water jackets. I guess I'm not understanding how the coolant circulates when the thermostat is closed and the radiator is being bypassed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Jeff Balazs]

Glenn;

I had the same concern you had about the flow when I set mine up. Not sure I ever found anything on it. I just went ahead and used the fitting on top of my water pump to tie the other end of the system in.

The real world answer is it works just fine. Used it this morning in defroster mode. While it doesn't get too warm the first few minute it does do it's job. Takes between 5 and 10 minutes to start putting out some noticeable heat. After that I usually have to turn off the fan. Also I don't think you will see much heat when that cable operated valve is closed. At least I don't.

Hth; Jeff

[Jocko_51_B3B]

Jeff,

It's good to hear I'm not alone in thinking about the heater valve leakage. Thanks for letting us know that a little leakage has had no noticeable effect in the summertime.

Glenn

[Jeff Balazs]

Glenn;

You are welcome. Like I said it all works just fine.

I insulated the living daylights out of my cab. As much for sound as heat. I can't run my heater more than about 10 minutes before it gets too toasty in the cab. Of course that is here is SoCal and anything below 60 degrees feels cold to us. ?

I really added the heater to gain the defroster. It can get very foggy here ........ Saturday afternoon visibility was down to less than 100" where I live.....and it was raining.

Jeff

[John-T-53]

I too have the "Corvette" valve on my engine and need to get new rubber seals, because I can't close it via the cable control from the dash pod (the seals too stiff). I should have ordered them when somebody found the website years ago and posted it here....I'll keep looking.

 

If I remember correctly, my valve came in a Mopar box. I'll see if I can dig that up too.

[Jeff Balazs]

Hey John;

How ya been?

Try Young Ed.......pretty sure he knows about these parts.

Jeff

 

[John-T-53]

I'm making a comeback! Sometimes life gets in the way of old trucks.

 

Ok here we go for new seals: http://corvettespecialty.com/corvette-heater-control-valve-seal-kit-1956-57

 

The valve is from a '56 or '57 'Vette.

 

The valve housing looks different but the innards apparently are the same as the 'Ma' version.

http://corvettespecialty.com/corvette-heater-control-valve-1956-57

[Young Ed]

I found that link too but I seem to remember the one that was found a couple of years back had more to the kit.