Oil Pan Installation

[Jocko_51_B3B]

The bolt holes in my oil pan were slightly bowed out from too much torque applied by a previous owner. I fixed that by hammering the holes flat again with a ball peen hammer and my vice. I have a set of new cork gaskets. The bolt holes look flat now and I'm ready to install the pan, but the shop manual doesn't mention using sealant when installing new oil pan gaskets. Nor does it say anything about how much to tighten the bolts or in what sequence. One YouTube guy used Permatex Black on both sides of cork gaskets, but he was working on a newer engine. I know that the front and rear curved cork gaskets have to stick up 1/8 to 1/4 inch at each end according to the manual, but 1/4 inch sounds like a lot. Any tips regarding sealant, adhesive, bolt torque, or anything else about pan installation would be very helpful.

[pflaming]

I just finished installing the pan on my 218. 1) I use permatex Indian head sealer, but others are good too. For ne it's just added projection but if/you remove the pan later, it will be more difficult. 2) I just snug the bolts the first round and I start from the inside out, why, don't know. I set the torque on my electric drill light to start then full torque 2nd. Then I watch what happens when I start the engine and I tighten the bolts one more time with a socket wrench, but never full tight. Let the gasket do its job. 

 

This may may not be how most do it but such as it is.

[Merle Coggins]

I would use a little Ultra Black silicone sealant in the corners, where all the gasket pieces meet. Otherwise I don’t like silicone gasket sealant, especially with cork gaskets. I like to use a tacky type of gasket stuff, like Permetex’s

#9 Tack and Seal on one side to hold it from moving around. Then s light coat of grease on the side against the block. Don’t over torque the bolts. Just snug them up, and go back after a while and recheck them. 

[Jocko_51_B3B]

Is it a good idea to trim some cork from the ends of the front and rear gaskets to make them compress easier? Mine stick up a full 1/4 inch at both ends when installed which seems like a lot to compress. I'm thinking of trimming them down so only 1/8 inch protrudes above the bolt flanges.

 

Edited November 15, 2018 by Jocko_51_B3B

[37silverstreak]

8 minutes ago, Jocko_51_B3B said:

Is it a good idea to trim some cork from the ends of the front and rear gaskets to make them compress easier? Mine stick up a full 1/4 inch at both ends when installed which seems like a lot to compress. I'm thinking of trimming them down to 1/8 inch at both ends.

 

 

According to my service manual, they tell you NOT to trim the ends of the gaskets. They are supposed to protrude 1/8 to 1/4 inch so they can compress when the pan bolts are tightened.

[NiftyFifty]

I always trim mine a bit and use Ultra Black on the crack between the gaskets, but never on the contact surfaces, as stated above...aviation gasket maker or high tack is best for holding in place, but I only use on the pan...very hard to get off the block if you need to remove again

[Jomani]

I worked as a field service diesel mechanic a long time ago. For ease of future service, my rule of thumb was to never use any type of sealant on the engine side of anything. It is much easier to scrape the old gasket off the part (sitting on the back of my truck) than the engine while it is still in the vehicle. The other reason I do it that way - if you look at the most stable surface, it should be the machined surface on the engine block. Unless it has defects, it most likely won’t be the cause of any leaks. The oil pan on the other hand will flex and bend if/when the bolts are over tightened - that would be the surface causing the leaks.

 

Every Engine has specific places where leaks are more of a potential - generally where joints are created in the gasket material. Those are the only places where I would use a small amount of silicone - just my opinion of course.

[DJ194950]

Instructions that came from the gasket company that made my pan gasket said Do Not trim the ends!

 

First time I had even had worked on flat 6's I trimmed the gasket ends and it leaking almost immediately, but I Did cut them almost flush.

 

I had to redo it. Not fun!

 

DJ

[Don Coatney]

I used sealant on one side of. the side gaskets and grease only on the other side. I used grease only on both sides of the end gaskets and no sealant. I did not trim the end pieces. By doing this I have been able to remove the pan twice without replacing the gaskets. Do not over tighten  the bolts that saquezze the gaskets to much as you will fatten out the gasket.

 

 

 

 

 

 

        

 

 

 

 

[Dodgeb4ya]

never trim the end gaskets... no need to.

Use six guide studs...two at each end of the block and two at the center of the block. These will hold the end of the side rail  gaskets in place as the pan is drawn up semi tight....then remove them and install the regular remaining six pan bolts.

I also use 2 small pins to attach/hold each end of the side rail gaskets to the protruding top ends of the "U" cork gasket...using sealant where the ends meet.

 

Edited November 16, 2018 by Dodgeb4ya
posted goofy pan pic

[DJ194950]

A further description of the (red) gasket holding pins and how they are installed (removed at some point or left?) would be very much appreciated.

 

DJ

[Dodgeb4ya]

3/4" dressmaking pins pushed down as shown in the picture... 2 at each corner. I leave them in.

[NiftyFifty]

Are you guys still installing an oil pan gasket or moved on to dressmaking...I’m confused LOL

 

I would never mess with pins or anything foreign except for the rtv silicon in the instillation, it wasn’t necessary originally, so no reason for it now, and I would hate to see a pin work it’s way out and into anything.  There’s a 100 ways to skin a cat, but at the end it’s still supposed to be a simple job

[lonejacklarry]

The pins they are talking about are actually studs, I think.  Screw them in hand tight and slip the pan over them and bolt away.  This saves the aggravation of trying to hold the pan without slipping.  After the bolts are in hand tight one would removed the studs and replace them with the original bolts.  There is no way for them to work out and into anything.

 

[kencombs]

30 minutes ago, lonejacklarry said:

The pins they are talking about are actually studs, I think.  Screw them in hand tight and slip the pan over them and bolt away.  This saves the aggravation of trying to hold the pan without slipping.  After the bolts are in hand tight one would removed the studs and replace them with the original bolts.  There is no way for them to work out and into anything.

 

 

I interpreted his drawing to mean the pins are actually 'pins' and are inserted through the end and side gaskets to maintain alignment.

 

Never heard of that before, but seems like a good idea.  Especially if one were installing the pan on an engine in the car.  I've had more than one end seal/gasket slip when lifting the pan over tie rods and other obstructions.

[Don Coatney]

32 minutes ago, lonejacklarry said:

The pins they are talking about are actually studs,

 

 

I think not. I believe they are dressmaker pins as described on the above picture.

[Dodgeb4ya]

I thought this was a ladies forum so I posted using dress making pins.

Would pin basting your pan gaskets be easier to understand?

[lonejacklarry]

9 hours ago, Don Coatney said:

I think not. I believe they are dressmaker pins as described on the above picture.

 

I have no idea what a dressmaker pin is--apparently a lot of you do know.  Anyhow, I was taught the stud method and it works well for me.

 

If I run across the aforementioned dressmaker pins, I will try them.

[Don Coatney]

https://www.ebay.com/bhp/dressmaker-pins

[Don Coatney]

Next thing you know you will need a thimble.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Thimble-Protector-Adjustable-Quilting-Accessories/dp/B076ZFQ7KN/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1542519954&sr=1-1&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A3851707011

 

[Dodgeb4ya]

Pinning class is in session...

Here are 73 different types of pins to ponder over.....there are hundreds of different pins.

If you decide to pin your pan gasket ends after all the above gibberish nonsense use a style of pin that makes you oil leak free and happy?

https://www.spotlightstores.com/sewing-fabrics/haberdashery/pins

Edited November 18, 2018 by Dodgeb4ya

[Jocko_51_B3B]

Installing the pan was easy in my case because I had the engine on a stand and had it turned upside down. Per the instructions, I did not trim the end gaskets at all even though they stuck out about 1/4 inch on both ends. I put a bead of Permatex Ultra Black on the gaskets where they met and spread a light coat of grease along the edge of the block where the side gaskets seat so it would be easy to remove the pan later if I need to do that. Then I just lowered the pan into place, dropped bolts into the corners, adjusted the gaskets a little, and then dropped the rest of the bolts into place. After that, it was just a matter of tightening the bolts down gradually alternating from side to side starting in the middle and going around several times. Even though the end gaskets stuck out 1/4 inch on both ends, they seem to have compressed down just fine.

Edited November 19, 2018 by Jocko_51_B3B