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Door won't open. 1952 Dodge coronet


CoronetGuy

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I have an issue with the driver side door on my 1952 Dodge Coronet. As in it won't open no matter what I do. Of course I can't get the door panel off either, since I need to open the door to access all the trim screws.

 

I have taken the outer door handle off and that part seems to be ok. Inside handle seems to move ok. It locks and unlocks from the inside. It locks and unlocks from the outside with the key.

I literally just closed the door one day and the next day went to open it and nothing happens. 

 

Any tips to getting this door open? I've tried a coat hanger and using a screwdriver from the outside (when the handle is off)

 

I'm tired of climbing across from the passenger seat, lol.

 

Pic for attention

IMG_20180814_223602_922.jpg

Edited by CoronetGuy
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1 hour ago, greg g said:

Could you get the trim card off the inside if you pulled the bottom cushion of the front seat.?

I can't remember now if it was the garnish molding having screws from the top of the door (obviously inaccessible with the door closed) or if it was a door panel screw blocked by the dash board (again, inaccessible with the door closed) that was preventing me from getting the panel off

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sounds as if the rotor latch is jammed up.....or the latch pawl is damaged....study the mechanism in the book or by comparing to another door that opens...these latches get very crusty over time and will get to the point that they will not allow the inner latching spring of the rotor to properly position the rotor when inner or outer door handles actives the mechanism...try to get some oil into the mechanism from the top by rolling down the glass and using a tube or straw to guide the oil..going to be a pain as the window guide itself will also bein the way...as a 52 model you can try removing the outer door handle and using this as access to lube the mechanism.

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Tried lifting the door while opening, nothing. I was able to pull away some of the interior felt and just barely see the rotor latch. I have a WD40 can that has a flexible spray tip, so I had just enough room to get it in there and spray the rotor latch real good. Still nothing.

 

Hoping maybe after it sits soaked for the day it may help

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the spring pawl are located in behind the rotor plate that the screws affix to the door.    These are if I recall about 3 spring pawls and they are what cuts the soft metal of the rotor and they wear unevenly and the pawls can be a staggered jumble.  When dry of lube and crusty...they do not move freely and thus prevent rotor from unlocking...if you can apply lube from the backside.....you have better chance of hitting the pawls...

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Inside shoulder hitting the  of the door while trying to open it has worked for me the few times I've had this happen.

Also holding the outer door handle down firm/palming firmly against the rear door edge while pulling outward on the door also can work.

Keep at it ... the door will open.... this issue can certainly be frustrating. 

Did your door always close smoothly and quietly or did you have to kinda give it a firm push?

The driver door latches see all the wear and tear.

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I've had the car for 5 years and the driver side rear door was the only one that wouldn't always close the 1st time. That door you have to give it the firm push. The other doors have always been great. Anybody that closes one of the doors for the 1st time would always say "wow, these doors close great. Even better than brand new cars" and they really do. 

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Chances are, WHEN you get it open give it the hinge check.  That is go to passenger side , open, and LIFT it feeling how much ;play' is in the hinge pins.  Then try that with driver door and there is PART of the problem.  Then close pass door and see height of on door hardware to where it hits the striker.  Again compare to driver door.  If your car was owned by the little old church lady (Single person household) explains how the other doors are so smooth.

 

Another trick to getting door open now might try a wonder bar under the door being careful of popping the paint.  IF you have a helper try two wonder bars or you can do two at once if your careful.  Again after you get it all lubed up after getting open, my guess is when closing the door from the outside you will see the door hop up slightly.  You can adjust it some by putting a 2 X 4 under the door , cosing as far as possible and pulling up GENTLY.  Its softer than you think. Dont horse it up or you will over correct.  Easier too soft and repeat next step harder.  Also look at the gap margins all around the door.  It may have flipped open in a strong wind and got tweaked as well as worn.  Takes a little time but can usually get thatone to open and close like the other doors that you like.

 

Lettuce no how you turn out.

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Hi...You might try this....put your outside handle back in...have a helper hold the handle in the open position....sit on the seat and push on the door with both feet..sometimes you have to kick it....be sure to wear you tennies!! Then after your door is open check the latch mechanism as Mr Adams pointed out ....

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On 9/7/2018 at 10:25 AM, CoronetGuy said:

I've had the car for 5 years and the driver side rear door was the only one that wouldn't always close the 1st time. That door you have to give it the firm push. The other doors have always been great. Anybody that closes one of the doors for the 1st time would always say "wow, these doors close great. Even better than brand new cars" and they really do. 

http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/025/cover.htm

 

Check this Mopar factory training book, may help get door open? and later take care of the cause of this issue.

 

Good luck,

 

DJ

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