My First Car -- P15 1947 Plymouth Deluxe

[kbuhagiar]

44 minutes ago, NickPickToo said:

Running list of parts wanted (last only 30 days on wanted section so keeping here to)

 

Front and back bumper assemblies  (Thank you ebruns1)

Front Fender Trim Pieces both sides

Front Grill (not the stainless pieces, the grill behind the stainless)

Front headlight Buckets pair. w/ or w/o  assembly

 

Will update as teardown proceeds.

Nick,

 

Where are you located? I think I have a spare front grille, I have to check in my parts shed.

[NickPickToo]

3 hours ago, kbuhagiar said:

Nick,

 

Where are you located? I think I have a spare front grille, I have to check in my parts shed.

Thanks — responded in the messenger function

[P15-D24]

Pls put your parts needed requests in the classified Wanted section.

[NickPick'sCrew]

19 hours ago, P15-D24 said:

Pls put your parts needed requests in the classified Wanted section.

Got it -- thanks

[J.P.G.]

Well done!

 

It warms my heart to meet a kindered spirit! As a vote of confidence, I'd like to tell you that I did the very same thing at fifteen. I hated modern ponton styling and stiff suspensions and step-down bucket seats, et c.. So I finally convinced my folks to let me spend my savings on a 1946 Plymouth Deluxe coupe. A bit rough, but nothing a willing hobbyist mechanic couldn't figure out. It has been my daily driver since I got my liscence in 2011 with splendid success and happiness that a modern car could never bring. I never intend to replace the car, as I see no reason trying to improve upon perfection. It's all stock, too - I even run bias ply tires (they look fantastic). I've done all sorts of work on it over the years, that is, driving an antique car regularly requires care, but like anything else worthwhile in life, it pays off. No matter how horrible my day or night has been, I can always count on a little joy the next time I have to drive somewhere. By all means, buy yourself a P-15!

[Plymouthy Adams]

2 minutes ago, J.P.G. said:

Well done!

 

It warms my heart to meet a kindered spirit! As a vote of confidence, I'd like to tell you that I did the very same thing at fifteen. I hated modern ponton styling and stiff suspensions and step-down bucket seats, et c.. So I finally convinced my folks to let me spend my savings on a 1946 Plymouth Deluxe coupe. A bit rough, but nothing a willing hobbyist mechanic couldn't figure out. It has been my daily driver since I got my liscence in 2011 with splendid success and happiness that a modern car could never bring. I never intend to replace the car, as I see no reason trying to improve upon perfection. It's all stock, too - I even run bias ply tires (they look fantastic). I've done all sorts of work on it over the years, that is, driving an antique car regularly requires care, but like anything else worthwhile in life, it pays off. No matter how horrible my day or night has been, I can always count on a little joy the next time I have to drive somewhere. By all means, buy yourself a P-15!

 

there is no way one can put step down buckets in a P15 and utilize the original dash position and be able to drive unless his body's mid section resemble that of a giraffe neck....proper installation of buckets in a P15 will mimic the position of the original...just be two seats instead of one.....again though, it is not just bolt and go...your foundation must meld into the very floor pan of the vehicle for safety and comfort...safety first.....the process to do this gets involved quite quickly and not for folks who like to rush and cut corners.

[NickPickToo]

Speaking of going slow. Back left fend took 1.5 hours today. I know it looks good on the outside...

[NickPickToo]

Hiding some real work underneath 

[NickPickToo]

Look at that tire ?   And my dad took it for a test drive when we bought it.  Frame is getting easier to see now.   Still looks like a lot of surface rust but nothing that can’t be cleaned up.   

 

Edited August 12, 2018 by NickPickToo

[casper50]

Don't put anymore air it it.  LOL.  somekind of accident waiting to happen.

[NickPick'sCrew]

The seem at the front of the rear fender towards the bottom 3 inches was welded to the body.  This was because the sheet medal on the body was rusted through where the fender attached.   Broke my heart a bit to cut into it because the weld was done beautifully, a really tight fit.  Got over it though because the rust was still not addressed.

Edited August 12, 2018 by NickPick'sCrew

[Dodgeed]

Wow, that tire! Unbelievable that it made it through your Dad's test drive. Amazing. ?

[9 foot box]

Going back a bit, I have had good results with Lab-metal with their solvent. I used it on the right park light bucket that was rusted out. It can be thinned to be applied with a flux brush, sets up faster than J-B weld, and can be powder coated to 400 degrees, supposedly. Just a thought concerning your headlight bucket problem. I used duct tape on the outside and patched the inside first, then removed tape a bit later to coat the outer side. You need the solvent to sometimes smooth the patch with the brush.I guess it's a learning experience, but I like it better than two part alternatives with epoxies.

[knuckleharley]

5 hours ago, 9 foot box said:

Going back a bit, I have had good results with Lab-metal with their solvent. I used it on the right park light bucket that was rusted out. It can be thinned to be applied with a flux brush, sets up faster than J-B weld, and can be powder coated to 400 degrees, supposedly. Just a thought concerning your headlight bucket problem. I used duct tape on the outside and patched the inside first, then removed tape a bit later to coat the outer side. You need the solvent to sometimes smooth the patch with the brush.I guess it's a learning experience, but I like it better than two part alternatives with epoxies.

I have never heard of this stuff before. Where can you buy it?

[J.P.G.]

Hello Again,

 

It occurs to me that what little experience I've had over the past seven years driving a stock P-15 regularly might be of interest or use to you.

 

Regarding Brakes:

I've found the stock juice brakes to be completely satisfactory, and have never had any catastrophic failure. However, it is extremely important to keep the emergency brake properly adjusted. On one occasion shortly after buying the car when a rear cylinder sprung a leak, and the petal didn't respond normally in traffic, the hand brake saved my front end from a decent dent.

 

Regarding Rust Prevention:

If you're a Yankee like me, you've got to contend with road salt in the winter. But I have recreated a classic protection method as follows - 

 

1. Buy a dozen tubes of Marine grease and empty them into a metal gallon paint can.

 

2. Buy three or so spray cans of Fluid Film.

 

3. Borrow a lift someplace and proceed to slather the grease by hand onto every surface that you want to protect from the elements. Be certain to leave a good cakey layer so that no air contacts any metal. 

 

4. For the places you can't fit your hand, like the inside of the frame rails, joins in the floor pans, the bottom of the space between the radiator and grille, and especially the space inside the rocker pannels, use the Fluid Film to get at them. 

 

I do this every autumn, in addition to regularly spraying off the car, and have observed no new rust anywhere! The drawback is you'll get covered in grease every time you adjust anything.

 

Regarding Touring:

I've had my Plymouth from Pittsburgh to New York City, and innumerable places in-between. Here are some observations of mine:

- Buy your tires in sets of five, and rotate them. Less anxiety this way. Further, keep the front wheels in proper allignment - the slightest error here takes thousands of miles off bias ply tires.

- Should the choke stop get stuck out in cold weather, preventing you from starting the car, simply remove the air cleaner and push the choke valve back open by hand.

- Keep a small window squeegee beneath the seat. On some rainy summer days, the heater defogger just can't keep up. 

- Should you desire to smoke, simply open the vent window just a little. It will suck all the smoke straight out of the car, leaving no tobacco smell on your seats 

- Keep a few quarts of spare motor oil in the trunk. Offentimes the filling station you're closest to doesn't carry SAE 30 non detergent.

- You might consider keeping a small modern hydraulic Jack in the trunk. I understand the original bumper jacks are considered unsafe.

-Replace the cork float on the gas tank sender with a plastic one. Mine was basically a paper weight from all the gas it soaked up.

- Follow the manual's lubrication schedule EXACTLY.  This is likely the most critical part of ensuring longevity and reliability of your car.

 

Regarding Breakdowns:

Eh, hate to admit it, but who hasn't had a few, after all. 

- the rear brake cylinder went out soon after I bought it. The brakes still worked for a week or so while I ordered parts to fix it if I pumped them up, but certainly unadvisable to rely on that condition. I've never had a trouble since installing new everything.

-About two years ago, I rebuilt the clutch just to do it.

-  About two years ago, the rear universal joint desintigrated, likely due to rip in the boot I'd observed. Went without a car for a few days till I got the rebuild kits. No trouble since.

- A year ago, the starter and generator both kicked the bucket. Fortunately, a local old-timer made quick work of rebuilding then. 

 

In other words, it's highly comparable to any other car's maintenance, and a fantastic support structure exists here. 

 

Ah well, I ramble. Again, best of luck!

[NickPickToo]

Right rear finder.   More rust but better tire ?

[Plymouthy Adams]

no rust.....must be pixels burnt out on my computer monitor...but then they only fail to show on your fender picture.....lol

[9 foot box]

Knuckleharley, I might have bought it on Amazon, both cans for $55. You need their solvent to thin product and to pour on top of unused product in can when you are done. It keeps it from setting. When reopened, stir and put the amount you want to work with in a separate container to thin and work out of that jar or whatever. I clean the flux brush and container with lac. thinner, but don't want to contaminate the original can or use their rather expensive  solvent for cleaning. It's aluminum that can be thinned and brushed on. I used some today to fill the pitting in the bar that holds the rocker clips, it looked better after a bit of flat filing, then welded on the patch panel. Then, just for giggles, I filled a hole at the front of the rocker, at the fender. I hit with the DA, looks good enough till I do it right. Don't work out of the can,cap it, and use a separate container, it sets up too fast.Do this and you extend the shelf life

[Plymouthy Adams]

That product sounds like a metal powder enriched POR 15 or similar brand/type product based on the moisture cure handling procedures.  I have used the Devcon brand of metal enriched epoxies a number of times in the past but mainly in the repair of aluminum based products and not steel.  Steel is just to easy to weld in new metal.   It is a good product and as it is two part your handling and storage uses are extended.   

[NickPickToo]

12 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

no rust.....must be pixels burnt out on my computer monitor...but then they only fail to show on your fender picture.....lol

I guess most of the rust has fallen away.   I get worried when the old bolts twist away with the metal (we’ll rust) but dad says don’t worry and that its all good so long as the outer body and frame are still solid.  Does anyone know if the Plymouth Dr does house calls?

[Plymouthy Adams]

2 hours ago, NickPickToo said:

I guess most of the rust has fallen away.   I get worried when the old bolts twist away with the metal (we’ll rust) but dad says don’t worry and that its all good so long as the outer body and frame are still solid.  Does anyone know if the Plymouth Dr does house calls?

 

unless you have very deep pockets and care not for return of your money given the unforeseen possibility you may have to move this car later....YOU are the Plymouth Dr.

[NickPickToo]

The experienced members may not care much but...going to start breaking down the front and thought this was a good way to drain the radiator without getting the suspension all wet with antifreeze.  The pipe is just wedged in place.  

[NickPickToo]

Here she is in all her exposed glory. 230 flathead six.  Salivating excessively. 

[NickPickToo]

Moor rust.  There seems like there’s no limit to it...

[casper50]

it grows overnight.  until you have the car completly apart you will find more every time you remove something.  I can't describe the feeling you get when the rust removal is over and the painting begins.