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Posted

Good morning and Merry Christmas everyone.  I am getting close to finishing the restoration of my 1953 b4b pickup. This will not be a 100 % restoration, 12 volt and radial tires  I would like to replace the old sock type oil filter with a spinon conversion. Does anyone have any info. or advise on this change over?.   Thanks in advance  Mike Pauly

Posted
21 hours ago, MWPauly09 said:

Good morning and Merry Christmas everyone.  I am getting close to finishing the restoration of my 1953 b4b pickup. This will not be a 100 % restoration, 12 volt and radial tires  I would like to replace the old sock type oil filter with a spinon conversion. Does anyone have any info. or advise on this change over?.   Thanks in advance  Mike Pauly

Spin on filter conversion is quite easy, with parts readily available. There are several threads on this forum that will help you make the conversion. Just search "spin on filter" Good luck!

 

http://www.mooneyesusa.com/product-p/mpf200.htm

 

 

...GRAVELY L model tractors used to use a bracket to replace the sealed canister typefilter to allow you to use aspin -on type. That can be remotely plumbed and either mounted in the same location as the canister you have. If it's mounted to the head like the original, you can use fixed tubing, but...

 

 

 

Posted

FYI, the bypass does a better job of filtering the oil than a spin on. It's been my experience when using a remote filter the extra oil line length will also slightly reduce your oil pressure.  Spin ons work best when installed on blocks designed for them. 

  • Like 1
Posted
7 minutes ago, P15-D24 said:

FYI, the bypass does a better job of filtering the oil than a spin on. It's been my experience when using a remote filter the extra oil line length will also slightly reduce your oil pressure.  Spin ons work best when installed on blocks designed for them. 

Great point. These engines were made for, and work very well with the bypass system.

Posted

One modification I saw was a spin on installed in the stock oil filter, was a old ford on a different forum.

I do like the idea, would cut down on longer lines, looks original externally, less mess when changing.

 

I have to wonder what you would save? as p15 - d24 says, bypass works pretty good as is.

Posted

Anyone have a problem with a spin-on type filter made for by-pass oil filtration type motors??

Using a aftermarket mount in the stock/aftermarket position hooked up the same as stock with a spin-on filter made for that purpose is readily available at Napa and other larger parts sellers.

Has been covered in  the past forum posts as well, search the same "spin on oil filter" or just "spin on" should get the info you seek with filter #'s.

DJ.

Merry Christmas to all!!

Posted

I am using a by-pass spin on oil filter on my 230 and did not loose any oil pressure were a full flow set up would.

parts used were a Wix by pass filter head 24755 ( e bay) an a Fram  PB50 by pass filter.

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  • Like 6
Posted

lonejacklarry  The filter head is marked for flow.

 

MWPauly09 Anyone selling filters should be able to cross the Fram #  to what ever they sell.

The 4AN hose and fittings are from Summit racing.     Thanks 

Posted

This is the filter I used with a add on filter mount (similar to bones44) on a bracket mounted in a position like the early mounts were off the rear motor head bolts, driver side. Lines like stock per arrows on the new mount.

This filter as you can see is made for by-pass oil filtration. Many industrial motors used this by the aftermarket machinery with Mopar flat 6's.

mopar bypass filter-wix 51050 oic.bmp

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Greetings to all. I would like to thank everyone who replied to my request for info. on the oil filter conversion. I have on order the Wix filter head  as was mentioned here. I will be using a Wix filter as well as a local dealer stocks them.  The info I have gotten from this sight has been a big help during this restoration project. Thanks again, Mike Pauly

  • 1 year later...
Posted

bones 44 and MWPauly09, I'm wanting to make the same conversion on a 218 pulled from a '52 Plymouth.  I'd be interested in knowing more about your set-up and where you got parts.  Seems like the biggest problem is plumbing the 1/8 NPT oil ports on engine to filter head.  Where did you get your hoses or converter to make work?

Posted (edited)

OK.  I read through this thread a little more thoroughly.  I see you got a Wix 24755 filter head which will take a Wix 51050 (or any of the various interchange filters), and that you used 4AN nitrous line.  How long of lines did you use?  I'm thinking 24"?

 

The block and this filter head are both plumbed 1/8" NPT.  Converters for 4 AN to 1/8" NPT are currently readily available.  I think I am set now.  Parts are ordered.

 

 

Edited by Captain Neon
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

So could someone explain the routing of the lines,my truck never came with a filter and would like to add one ....what I'm asking is the flow,the block has a upper and lower plugs......so is the flow from top tap thru filter and out of filter to bottom plug???? Thanks steve

Posted

Yes, the upper port is in the oil galley. You'll see a couple other plugs along that ridge in the block. One is behind the starter and one just ahead of the distributor that may be feeding your oil pressure gauge. There may also be one behind the generator. the lower plug is the return to sump. This flows through the oil pressure regulator. If the oil pressure is low, and the valve is closed, the return to sump is also closed so that oil pressure isn't lost through the filter system.

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PC300174.JPG.82d4a168fb3df367c68bd9cdf3e9e337.JPG

Posted

Yes,  I agree totally with what what was said, Merle's and yours.

But the other end of the connections to the filter depends on the filter itself which should be labeled on the ports of it!

Some are reversed to what other after market brands filters installed.

Few were factory installed and many aftermarket were installed by many others in the day.

 

Hope that answers your Q.

 

DJ

Posted

Yes, you are correct Steve. And as DJ stated, be sure that you know the proper connections on your filter housing. Notice on mine that the oil feeds into the bottom center and comes out at the side near the top. Others feed in near the top and drain out the bottom. It all depends on the filter design. Mine is a sock type. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks Guys....Yes the filter adapter from Wix is marked with flow and also the bypass oil filter is also interesting compared to what we are used to...the in Port on the filter adapter goes directly into the bypass filter by means of a orifice in the center ,then gets filtered and directed to the out port on the housing.....Very Enlightening.... Thanks Again...hope this helps others 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Bones44 can u please post a pic of how u tied the -4 lines I'm to the block ,I have bought every imaginable -4 fitting and I'm not able to get any fitting to work , straights,45's and 90's ...... because the block fittings ar so close ... Thanks Steve

Edited by 5027 steve
Spelling
Posted

Here is a pic of the only fittings I could make work with -4 lines .....a -4 to 1/8 45 degree in the lower port ....and a 1/8 machined 90 degree street elbow with a -4 to 1/8 straight fitting.....All other options didn't work ,I bought a number of fittings thinking they would work to no avail........Steve

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