Home Made Intake, Exhaust & Freshen-Up

[greg g]

As you were going along did you ever consider connecting the two unused collector inlets as a balance tube?

[Adam H P15 D30]

8 hours ago, greg g said:

As you were going along did you ever consider connecting the two unused collector inlets as a balance tube?

I did give it a quick thought. It is really not needed. It's going into a single 2.25 inch exhaust and that's more than enough for the amount of air these engines exhale. I didn't even put a balance tube behind my Hemi. 

Also, I'm not sure it would have the same benefit as a V8 with opposite cylinders firing 90 degrees of each other. I have never been a fan of crossovers. 

Edited December 2, 2017 by Adam H P15 D30

[Adam H P15 D30]

10 hours ago, Don Coatney said:

Pictured is a mock up of a log manifold I was setting up a few years back.

Don, the last picture I saw of your Plymouth engine I think it had Carter carbs on it???  Did you ever try the Webers?

[Adam H P15 D30]

12 hours ago, Los_Control said:

yes, is style of log they are speaking of, a photo they share of them. These I believe are made from 6160 aluminium as it is easy to grind, cut, shape etc... also lighter then steel.

But the photo is titled cragar-cadilac, does this mean that cragar made these for a cadilac engine? I dunno, but that would be my guess and the material looks like aluminium to my old eyes.

 

They claim that 1/4" steel works great, you can cut and weld and thread holes for studs etc ....  but it is heavy and generally not what you want on a race engine.

If you ask me, I would say that maybe the intake that Adam made is not a actual log, but I bet some of the same principles would apply. Just some basic guidelines for when a guy is fiddling around in the shop trying to lay it out. Maybe follow some of the suggestions for tuning it after you get it on the motor and running. And of course, another search term for google to get you further down the rabbit hole.

After you get it working and satisfied, probably could have the whole unit intake/exhaust ceramic coated for longevity?

That article was a good read. I've thought about getting it coated but only after I am satasfied with it and maybe not even then. Never know, it may not perform the way I want it and I'll scrap it and start over???

[Don Coatney]

7 minutes ago, Adam H P15 D30 said:

Don, the last picture I saw of your Plymouth engine I think it had Carter carbs on it???  Did you ever try the Webers?

I never did try the Webbers. They are still sitting on my bench mocked up on the log.

[Adam H P15 D30]

2 minutes ago, Don Coatney said:

I never did try the Webbers. They are still sitting on my bench mocked up on the log.

Put them on the Dodge

[Don Coatney]

2 minutes ago, Adam H P15 D30 said:

Put them on the Dodge

The Dodge runs so good in stock form I don't think I will mess with it.

[Flatie46]

Adam thanks for posting and congrads, great work. I like many others have been thinking of doing the same thing at some point.  Good luck with it, hope it works well, keep us posted.

[Adam H P15 D30]

17 hours ago, LazyK said:

racers port an polish their heads and intakes to get them as smooth as possible. smoother means less turbulence and more velocity = more air/fuel in the cylinder

Turbulence is needed to avoid fuel puddling. I don't think you could get any engine with siamized ports to breathe very well, might as well keep it rough for the better drivability. 

[Los_Control]

26 minutes ago, Adam H P15 D30 said:

That article was a good read. I've thought about getting it coated but only after I am satasfied with it and maybe not even then. Never know, it may not perform the way I want it and I'll scrap it and start over???

Thing is, we all need some sort of bench mark as a starting point, then a mod here and a mod there and eventually you may scrap it and start over, but you would know why you were doing so and moving forward. You already got your feet wet and ahead of the game   

 

Hoping to get a chance to go over to the shop today and maybe mock things up.

My first bench mark will be to get her fired up after sleeping for 38 years, running good on one carb, before adding 2 carbs. 

Last week I was working on the fuel lines and adding a old glass bowl filter. I connected it just like a lot of others do, just a short nipple between the carb and the filter, moved fuel line to the inlet of filter. .... Then I stood there and looked at it and shook my head. All these different fuel line connections and sitting right on top of the exhaust.

I would like to try and improve that situation , is one good reason for wanting to build a better mouse trap.

[Adam H P15 D30]

I agree, one change at a time is really good advice. There are other things I'm going to change but only after I get it running and dialed in. 

[Flatie46]

4 hours ago, Adam H P15 D30 said:

Turbulence is needed to avoid fuel puddling. I don't think you could get any engine with siamized ports to breathe very well, might as well keep it rough for the better drivability. 

In all my years working on motorcycles, dealing with performance carbs and intakes. I remember reading about atomization of fuel ( and flow, and port velocity, etc ). I remember seeing a product offered that might be of use or that you might fabricate if need be. It was called a turbulator or something like that. Seemed like it used a swirled entrance into the intake and a screen to bust up the mixture. I think you just dropped this part into your intake between the carb and intake. I realise I'm not very good at explaining things. I'm better at the whole point and grunt thing. Anyway it might be an idea if you need it.

[thebeebe5]

Nice looking work...!

[Adam H P15 D30]

She's a runner.

 

[Los_Control]

4 minutes ago, Adam H P15 D30 said:

She's a runner.

That is sweet!

[mrwrstory]

  Just discovered this threat. Great project!  I love the "McGiver" factor.  In scanning the thread I have a question and a comment.

Comment - In my opinion, you don't need to rationalize (for others) why you're doing what your doing.  It's the journey, right?  If you want the best of an old Mopar,  restore it.  If you want better performance or economy or reliability,  buy a new car. 

Question - I may have missed it but what's the source for the air cleaners?  I love the Siamese effect and imagine it X3 for my Hemi.

[Adam H P15 D30]

The air cleaners are Langdons available on his website. One of the things I overlooked was carb spacing, I made them too close together. Consequently I had to loose the chokes on both of them and the separate air cleaner covers didn't fit. I cut and welded the covers together, finished and painted them the hammertone silver. Jury is still out if I like them or not but for the time being, they stay. 

[Adam H P15 D30]

Btw, I have done zero tuning, the way it ran was out of the box. Throttle response was much better than stock even in its poor state of tune. 

Started and idled at about 300 rpm without lifting a screwdriver to it. 

[55 Fargo]

Hey Adam look forward to road testing and how your setup performs  on the road, hot weather etc...

[Adam H P15 D30]

Bringing this back so I can add to it. I finally got to road test it and I hadn’t made any other changes besides the intake and headers. The exhaust is y-piped into a single 2.25 pipe going through a stock 2010 Mustang GT muffler exiting before the rear tire. It sounds pretty good and works well. Engine is a fairly stock fresh 230 with a .030 overbore and .050 off the head, cam is stock. It has a modified slant 6 distributor, 1.5 ohm canister coil, HEI module and plugs set at .040. Using 7mm resistor wires. Went from the stock intake and exhaust and Carter carb. The ignition system was already done so it is not new. 

Other than taking a screwdriver to the Weber’s, I haven’t made any changes, they are Langdons out of the box 

First impressions: BOTTOM END improvement!  Big difference down low!  

It idles really well and better throttle response all around. Even works ok with the Fluid Drive despite not having a dashpot but I may add one. 

2000 rpm and punch it:  good improvement. Slight bog when the secondaries open but it pulls through and if you roll into it, no bog at all. 

3500-4500: I’m almost never there but I backed out at 4500 and it was still pulling so I’m definitely not running out of carb. 

Overall I’m very happy with the results. Hope this helps someone who is considering similar mods. 

 

Adam

[55 Fargo]

1 hour ago, Adam H P15 D30 said:

Bringing this back so I can add to it. I finally got to road test it and I hadn’t made any other changes besides the intake and headers. The exhaust is y-piped into a single 2.25 pipe going through a stock 2010 Mustang GT muffler exiting before the rear tire. It sounds pretty good and works well. Engine is a fairly stock fresh 230 with a .030 overbore and .050 off the head, cam is stock. It has a modified slant 6 distributor, 1.5 ohm canister coil, HEI module and plugs set at .040. Using 7mm resistor wires. Went from the stock intake and exhaust and Carter carb. The ignition system was already done so it is not new. 

Other than taking a screwdriver to the Weber’s, I haven’t made any changes, they are Langdons out of the box 

First impressions: BOTTOM END improvement!  Big difference down low!  

It idles really well and better throttle response all around. Even works ok with the Fluid Drive despite not having a dashpot but I may add one. 

2000 rpm and punch it:  good improvement. Slight bog when the secondaries open but it pulls through and if you roll into it, no bog at all. 

3500-4500: I’m almost never there but I backed out at 4500 and it was still pulling so I’m definitely not running out of carb. 

Overall I’m very happy with the results. Hope this helps someone who is considering similar mods. 

 

Adam

Nice you need to video this...

[46Ply]

I'll second the video request.  Glad you updated this thread.  Otherwise I would never have seen it.  Just went through the entire build.  Nice work!

[knuckleharley]

On 12/2/2017 at 10:16 AM, Adam H P15 D30 said:

That article was a good read. I've thought about getting it coated but only after I am satasfied with it and maybe not even then. Never know, it may not perform the way I want it and I'll scrap it and start over???

Seems to me that if you were to coat it,that would help keep the heat trapped in the intake,and be bad for both performance and fuel economy. In hot weather it could even lead to fuel vaporization and stalling.

[knuckleharley]

On 12/1/2017 at 5:00 PM, LazyK said:

racers port an polish their heads and intakes to get them as smooth as possible. smoother means less turbulence and more velocity = more air/fuel in the cylinder

Racers are concerned with making maximum power at wide-open throttle,not drive-ability. Street cars operate at  much lower RPM's that don't need and can't even use as much fuel flow,and need a little bit of "roughness" in order to run properly at idle and typical cruise speeds. Not such a big deal if you live in a rural area,but it can be a big deal if you mostly drive in city traffic.

[Adam H P15 D30]

Nope, it's bolted down and will not come off for a coating.  Paint is fine.

Going to be a while before I drive it again, trying to get dad to paint it, windows out getting new felt.