Molly Time!

[Los_Control]

Love it when I get a chance to come over and work on Molly. Seems like every time I try, my uncle has something else that needs to be done.

Being disabled does not help much, I can do everything, just have to sit down and take a break every 15 - 20 min or so.

I got my wheels broke down and need to take them home to clean and paint. Just thought would show a photo of why I do not want stock wheels.

I just dont trust them for a daily driver, and like the beauty ring/dog dish, and they will fit over disk brakes.

Got the plymouth suburban on blocks, start stripping it tomorrow. Putting the whole rear axle assembly with 3:73 gears in Molly.

[John-T-53]

That wheel looks like it failed due to a combination improper attachment, or loose lug nuts while being driven. Corrosion may have also played a role if areas were severely weakened to begin with. This wouldn't normally occur on a wheel just because it's stamped steel or stock.

[Los_Control]

I should apologize and, more info. those are actually 2 different wheels. One that is not broke is the left front and broke is the right front.

The right front cracked while we were towing it around in the yard, it broke when I put it on the tire machine and dismounted the tire.

The rear wheels look the same also. I have a 52 plymouth that am parting out, and all the wheels on it are the same.

Both of these vehicles spent time in the Seattle/Tacoma area where it rains constantly. This could be why my wheels are so bad.

Here in the dry south east part of the state, I have a small farmers utility trailer with a pre 47 dodge straight axle, and the wheels look really good on it.

I have a 52 b1b parts truck and the wheels do look good on it also. Will have to break them down and inspect them.

 

When I was a kid, I got a job pumping gas, when I came into work and it was slow, there were always a pile of customers tires that were left for repair.

I liked fixing them, was left alone back in the corner and nobody bothered me, boss loved it because nobody else wanted the job.

Then I started doing service work, changing semi tires on the side of the interstate  

Then for 15 years I retreaded semi truck tires and became the repairman and eventually manager of the shop.

Then I decided to be a carpenter 

 

But all the time while in the tire business, We had discounts on new tires/wheels, just take a little out of your pay each week. Everything I drove had new tires and custom wheels.

Then we would sell them off our cars, just to get a excuse to buy another different set and try them.

I am just a little anal about wheels. And with all the new custom wheels I have owned, my favorite cars over the years had stock black wheels with beauty rings and dog dishes.

[Los_Control]

So I am going to try this again. I have been bouncing around this forum for over a year. And having problems staying in the same thread and making sense.

About 6 months ago I realized how bad my memory and confusion was. And it started 5 years ago. I was given some medication that caused me neuropathic  pain, and all the confusion issues. I stopped taking the medication 1.5 years ago, and after 1 year, my mind cleared up enough to recognize how messed up I really was.

Then I started talking with my DR about that and taking some meds that help, and now going to a psychiatrist to see if we can figure it out. (we are going to argue a lot)

But the symptoms of early Alzheimer would describe me pretty good.  But the longer away from the medication I was on, the better I am getting.

I want no sympathy, just giving a explanation on why I have been so scattered brained over the last year. And I just have to laugh at myself and the funny things I do.

I have had zero budget to work on this truck, Been fighting social security disability for 5 years because cant tell them (in the past) what was wrong with me.

So my lawyer and I have a hearing coming up in 2 months, will be the deciding factor on my claim, I would expect my claim to be accepted at that time as 80% of claims are drug to the hearing and won there. And a small budget will be created and work will get done. Biggest issue now, I do not have gas money to go there and putter around on molly when I want. When I do, I stay for a couple days, and drag home boxes of parts and work on them here .

I think molly time is fitting, as the old truck kinda keeps me grounded and from going totally insane.

When I stay at Uncles to work on the truck, you need to be careful going outside after dark, cats are kind of ornery.

 

 

[Los_Control]

I have question on the rear end, wonder if anyone knows or can point me in correct direction.

The rear end from the 52 plymouth suburban is 2" narrower then Molly's b1c rear end. I did not expect this.

When I pulled the rear end out of the plymouth and measured, I contemplated shoving it back in there and forget about it.

 

I decided to move forward with the swap, I need the 5 on 4.50 bolt pattern so it will match the front, I want the 3:73 gears, and I like that it is period correct, instead of a modern jeep or explorer rear end ... and its already mine.

I am guessing that 1" narrower on each side wont really matter that much if any. What about tracking? planning on wider tires in the rear anyways.

And expect I will have to weld in new spring perches.

 

So now I am wondering/thinking that my 52 b1b parts truck will have the correct width axle housing, does anyone know if the 52 plymouth center section with 3:73 gears will work in that 52 dodge 1/2 ton rear end housing using those axles?

 

Just not easy for me to get over to the parts truck, is parked on some property my grandmother owned.

Thought would ask here.

 

Here is a recent photo, 6 month update of the truck, not much has changed. I put it on blocks a couple weeks ago to prepare for the rear end swap.

Look where I put the blocks.

I drug the pressure washer down several weeks ago, was surprised but pleased, how easy the blue paint was coming off. When I get it rolling and yard driving, I want to pull it up next to the shop, take my time with a garden hose and bucket of water, try to preserve as much original paint as I can. So I just saw what I could do and stopped there.

Figure somewhere between a week and a month, would be a red truck again.

 

The floor cleaned up pretty good, there is a few pin holes and a little ragged around the floor board panels, but a little rust protection and paint and will last a few more years yet. Until ready to do a proper repaint.

 

As far as running, I think it is ready, gone through the fuel system and distributor. The starter had bad brushes, so I put another used starter in it.

Then like a idiot, I turned the engine over to build up oil pressure. With the plugs in it. With a 12 volt battery. I think my used starter now needs new brushes.

But it was really promising, it sounded like no compression at all at first. I have been adding atf to the cylinders and rolling her over by hand for the past year.

The more it turned over, I could hear and feel the compression returning.   I have a rebuilt 218 short block in the shed, was bought 20 years ago and stored inside, the head was never installed on it. It has to come apart and hone the cylinders, hoping it does not need rebored and new pistons.

 

So I moved on to the under carriage.

Basically the front drums are frozen, why the tie rod got bent and front wheel broke while moving it around the yard. Sure they moved while we towed it, but I can not turn them by hand with it sitting on blocks.

Will disassemble, clean and inspect the complete front end, save what is worth saving.

With no budget to work with, is going slower then I want, but with all the leg work out of the way, will go much faster when there is a budget.

Not given up on her yet. Need to rest up a few days after pulling the rear end, then go spend a few more days out there playing with molly.

 

 

[Merle Coggins]

You can probably take the 3.37 differential out of the car axle and swap it into your truck axle. The only thing to watch for is the spline count on the axle shafts. 

I have a '50 Plymouth 3.73 diff in my B2C truck axle. 

[Los_Control]

Thanks merle, main reason why not considering that, but you give me another idea. I want to get rid of the B1C 5 on 5 bolt pattern.

My front axle has already been switched to 5 on 4.50, 40 years ago when last on the road.so would need to carry two spares.

Just saying, I want the bolt pattern on the axles, as much as I want the gear ratio.

 

If the center section from the plymouth would swap, I then put the plymouth rear end back in the car with my 4.10 gears so it can be moved.

Am afraid will have to put it on a trailer and haul it to the scrap yard to dispose of. No wrecking yards would come pick it up.

So I can take off whatever I want, just have to be able to roll it around for easy disposal.

 

So molly gets the 3:73, keeps the current 5 on 5 bolt pattern, then later when convenient, I can pull the axles/brake drums from the parts truck and swap them into molly.

My thought is, if the plymouth fits the b1c, the b2b will also be close enough can mix and match.

So we get rid of the plymouth by Jan first, (self imposed date) And I have all the parts needed to take my time and build the rear end for molly with all new brakes, seals and bearings and the 2 truck rear ends.

 

Hope that makes sense, I just thought the b1c with the bigger brakes, bolt pattern and funny ujoints, would not be a match, did not consider or even measure to see if the center section would fit.

Of course this all depends on if I have 28 spline axles.

[Don Coatney]

This might or might not help.

[Los_Control]

11 minutes ago, Don Coatney said:

This might or might not help.

Thanks Don, if you look at that, says all mopars 37-48 with 47" spring width. This matches my 49 pilothouse. I see nowhere on the chart for 1952, maybe in those years they varied to much.

So I am only guessing the 52 dodge pilothouse is same width as 49 pilothouse, the car widths varied.

[Merle Coggins]

Well then, put the car axle under the truck and use a couple of 1" wheel spacers regain the original track width.  

[59bisquik]

You could do as Merle suggested and use the car axle with 1" spacers. (I was getting confused with all the swapping... you can also get 1" spacers that will change the pattern too)

Now skipping forward a few years, so not sure it its all the same. I used a 54 Plymouth 3.73 center section in my 55 Dodge C1B. It was the same spline count and dropped right in. All I did was swap the input flange so the driveshaft would still hook up. The Plymouth rear axle was narrower and had smaller brakes than my 55, so I didnt consider just swapping the whole axle. 

[Los_Control]

my brother inlaw said would drive me by Grandmas old place so can take measurements off of my parts truck. I think the rear end will be the same width as my 1949.

I just got off the phone with my uncle, he says we can just shove the axles back in the plymouth and load it on the trailer without a center section, I think he is right.

 

See I honestly thought the 52 plymouth would be a direct bolt in. I was caught off guard yesterday when I found out it would not.

 

So I think the plan now is, leave my truck alone.

Put the 3:73 center section in this rear end, new bearings seals and brakes etc ... then put it in my 1949.

Sorry for being so confusing. I thought I had everything all figured out, planned on junking the 52 pilothouse rear end, now I need to rebuild it and use it.

And if I measure it tomorrow, find out it also needs modification, then can consider all the other options mentioned.

All depends on this 52 plymouth center section bolting into this 52 dodge pilothouse then bolting it into my 49 pilothouse .... I mean what could go wrong?

 

 

 

 

 

[59bisquik]

Any chance of making the visor or rear bumper fit on your truck?

[Los_Control]

The visor is aftermarket and adjustable, slides in and out of the center trim piece and adjust for width. So it will fit, not really thinking about using it on the truck, but will try it to see if I change my mind.

The rear bumper is in real nice shape and my 49 has no bumper. So I want to try it and see, and bumper brackets bolt to the frame, I think with minor mods it would work.

Of course if I put a chrome bumper on the rear, would want to use the front also. The front the chrome is starting to peel on the bottom, but all that can be fixed, if the width and fit is good. So I have been thinking about using them, They will be slightly wider but not by much.

 

[59bisquik]

Well strip off the visor and bumpers and maybe you can use them down the road or sell them if they don't work out. I know there is generally a market for old visors.

[Young Ed]

You saving stuff off that 51 wagon?

[medium_jon]

22 hours ago, Los_Control said:

When I was a kid, I got a job pumping gas, when I came into work and it was slow, there were always a pile of customers tires that were left for repair.

I liked fixing them, was left alone back in the corner and nobody bothered me, boss loved it because nobody else wanted the job.

Then I started doing service work, changing semi tires on the side of the interstate  

Then for 15 years I retreaded semi truck tires and became the repairman and eventually manager of the shop.

Then I decided to be a carpenter 

 

But all the time while in the tire business, We had discounts on new tires/wheels, just take a little out of your pay each week. Everything I drove had new tires and custom wheels.

Then we would sell them off our cars, just to get a excuse to buy another different set and try them.

Neat story @Los_Control. Thanks for sharing

[Los_Control]

I feel a little silly here, but want to claim our ancestors were quite clever instead.

Working on my dome light, I see no way to remove the lens.

I would think that would squeeze the plastic lens and it would pop out.

This one almost feels as if it is glass, or is a real thick plastic and not squeezing. Or maybe needs to be warmed up to be flexible?

Any thoughts on how to dissemble this light for cleaning? Before I break it.

Another question I have, removing door and window cranks.

I was thinking to try needle nose vice grips, push the escutcheon back against the spring and clamp the pliers on the shaft to hold them back out of the way.

What is actually holding the handle on? My truck has no handles on it, I see a square shaft with a hole in the end.

Is it a pin that is driven through the handle / shaft, I just need to drive it out? Hoping I can figure it out when I get to it, just curious if any advice or tricks you guys like to use?

 

Also wondering if the handles from the 52 suburban would fit my 49 B1C? They have some cool scroll work on them and would use them if they fit.

as always, thanks in advance.

 

[ggdad1951]

Yes a pin is through those holes to hold the handles on.

The light the whole bezel pops off to release the lens.

[Los_Control]

Thanks very much ggdad!

[Young Ed]

and the last part yes those car handles should fit just fine. 

[Los_Control]

1 hour ago, Young Ed said:

and the last part yes those car handles should fit just fine. 

Thats great news. The 49 they are just gone, no interior door or window handles. I do have a set on the 52 parts truck that positive would work.

But if given the choice, I like the spiffy plymouth handles, also checking out the plymouth cowl vent arm/handle.

On the truck somebody came by and tried to force the rusted cowl open, broke the handle.

[Los_Control]

question on king pins.

Can these be replaced with the axle in the truck? Or is it a simple task to just remove it and press them out?

I have never attempted or tore a axle down to the king pins, and not sure what to expect.

I need to get the drums off, front brakes are froze and wont spin. Grabbing the drum and lifting it up, can see 1/16" - 1/8" slop in the top of the king pin.

And at this point, wondering if I should pull the axle or leave it on the truck and work with it there.

My goal is a safe daily driver, not a full restore.

Thanks in advance for your valuable input!

[59bisquik]

King pins could possibly be replaced with the axle in the truck if you had the right tools. However, to replace the bushings, first the king pin needs to be removed and its a gamble if that can be done with hand tools or if a press is needed. Second,  you have to press out and press in new bushings. Then the bushings need to be reamed to fit before the king pin is put back in. You either need to find and purchase a ream or have a local shop do it.

The easy answer is, remove the axle and take it to a shop to have the king pins replaced.

[Los_Control]

1 hour ago, 59bisquik said:

The easy answer is, remove the axle and take it to a shop to have the king pins replaced.

I had no plans on removing the axle, just fix the brakes and bearings.

Then I saw how much slop in the king pins and was wondering if just pulling the axle is best way .... I think it probably is.

 

Trying to pull out the cowl vent now, could not locate where the bolts that hold it in are, searching site now.