Cooling System Flush - Clear, Clean Water

[Bingster]

Just flushed the block and radiator of my '47 Desoto.  Clear water on both.  Funny, but when I changed oil a few months back, the oil was clean, too.  Some water puddled in the spark plug wells before I began blowing them out with air. What if any water got into the cylinders?

[Plymouthy Adams]

4 minutes ago, Bingster said:

Just flushed the block and radiator of my '47 Desoto.  Clear water on both.  Funny, but when I changed oil a few months back, the oil was clean, too.  Some water puddled in the spark plug wells before I began blowing them out with air. What if any water got into the cylinders?

are you asking.....................through the spark plug hole????????????????????????????????????????????  I would think your problems would be a bit greater that asking that...

Edited August 19, 2017 by Plymouthy Adams

[desoto1939]

Bingster, It seems as if you are going from one project to another project on your car but never fully completing any one of them.

Have you gotten the issue fixed with the generator and the radiator belt?

Now that you flushed the radiator system and engine block did you have the spark plugs insterted into the head or were they just loose and not snugged down like they should be with the copper metal gasket?

The flathead MoPAr heads would get water into the indent if rain did get into the engine compartment. My 39 Desoto has the butterfly style hood and some time water does drip into the indent of the plugs.So soakup the little bit of water and then start the engine to get the head warm and hot and the little bit of water will dryup.  Also you should start the car to insure that there are no leaks where you disconnected the various hoses.  So I guess we can assume you have the fan belt installed and the belt is now fitting perfectly on the generator.

 

Rich HArtung

[Mike36]

If the oil was clean, why did you change it? 

[Bingster]

Okay, in the order in which they've come.

Yes, plugs had already been installed in the head.

And in flushing the cooling system, I gave the gen strap a tug and it moved. All that rust buster must have worked.

I changed the oil because you guys said to change it before attempting to start a car that's been sitting for seven years.

I work on parts based on the time I have. I had a day today and so did the flushing.  If I only have time to crimp spark plug wires, I'll do that.  Make new battery cables, etc. etc.  Believe it or not, it works for me and things do get completed.

 

[Don Coatney]

44 minutes ago, Bingster said:

Okay, in the order in which they've come.

Yes, plugs had already been installed in the head.

And in flushing the cooling system, I gave the gen strap a tug and it moved. All that rust buster must have worked.

I changed the oil because you guys said to change it before attempting to start a car that's been sitting for seven years.

I work on parts based on the time I have. I had a day today and so did the flushing.  If I only have time to crimp spark plug wires, I'll do that.  Make new battery cables, etc. etc.  Believe it or not, it works for me and things do get completed.

 

So are you going to report your completed repairs on the threads you have opened for these repairs or must everybody guess if the repairs have been completed?????

[Bingster]

I see your point.  Actually, until that gen strap moved today, I hadn't had time to solve that problem so there was nothing to report.  But I am hoping that's going to solve it. I can't think of anything else I left open but there certainly could be.  I'm sure that by the time I'm ready to fire off the engine, that I'll have more questions of some sort. And I will be diligent to report them.

[Mike36]

Didn't remember your car sat for 7 years. You were right to change oil. Good luck on starting.

[desoto1939]

Bingster Thanks for the update on the project.  Some of us did not know if you were making progress. Glad to hear that you have the fan belt installed. So you are making progress and keep on going.

 

Rich Hartung

[desoto1939]

when you have drained all of the water and are ready for antifreeze make sure you use the old style green antifreeze. The new extended stay stuff is not recommended for our older cars you need the original green. About two years ago i spoke to a technician from one of the major AF suppliers and they told me directly to only use the old green the newer extended stay is not to be used.

Also recommend taht everyone put a pint of Antirust inhibutor, can be puchased at NAPA. This puts the antirust components and chemical back into the radiator and engine block.  Basically the antifreeze will last a long time but the antirust chemicals is what breaks down over time.  Put this in every fall when you are getting ready to store the cr for the winter but make sure you run the engine and get it up to full temp to open the thermostat this wasy it will insure that the  antirust inhibuto has circulated throughtout the entire engine.  Also it is a lubricant for the water pump. I have done this everyear in the fall ounce of prevent is worth money saved for a cloged engine with scale and rust and other issues.

 

Rich Hartung

[Niel Hoback]

I need to know what part of the water pump is being lubricated by the coolant. The coolant cannot reach the bearings without destroying them. So, what is the lubricant for?

[TodFitch]

22 minutes ago, Niel Hoback said:

I need to know what part of the water pump is being lubricated by the coolant. The coolant cannot reach the bearings without destroying them. So, what is the lubricant for?

Between the rotating shaft/impeller and the non-rotating pump body is a seal that has rubbing surfaces. Seems to me the lubricant would be for that.

[Niel Hoback]

Excellent. That's the best answer I've ever gotten. Thank you.

[Bingster]

Thanks Rich. I'm just about to buy coolant and I wouldn't have known, thinking coolant is coolant.  But I do get the 50/50?

Also, I like your idea about putting in a valve on the water pump by-pass elbow instead of the tube. I was reading in my parts book and it says the thread is tapered. Would you know what that means?

[Young Ed]

18 minutes ago, Bingster said:

Thanks Rich. I'm just about to buy coolant and I wouldn't have known, thinking coolant is coolant.  But I do get the 50/50?

Also, I like your idea about putting in a valve on the water pump by-pass elbow instead of the tube. I was reading in my parts book and it says the thread is tapered. Would you know what that means?

You can get the 50/50 if you want. I prefer to save a little $ and mix my own water into it. 

[Jerry Roberts]

1 hour ago, Bingster said:

Thanks Rich. I'm just about to buy coolant and I wouldn't have known, thinking coolant is coolant.  But I do get the 50/50?

Also, I like your idea about putting in a valve on the water pump by-pass elbow instead of the tube. I was reading in my parts book and it says the thread is tapered. Would you know what that means?

These engines have pipe threads in some places and a pipe thread is tapered . to seal a tapered pipe thread you would apply pipe joint compound or a similar thick sealant . Sometimes you can apply teflon tape also . 

[Bingster]

So should I apply pipe joint compound to all threaded drain valves in the block as well?  Any particular type? I'm having a helluva time getting that rear heater valve out of the block. I'm afraid it's gonna break off, although I wouldn't think that a pipe that hefty would snap in two.  The heater valve is attached to the pipe that is attached to the block.

[TodFitch]

21 minutes ago, Bingster said:

So should I apply pipe joint compound to all threaded drain valves in the block as well?  Any particular type? I'm having a helluva time getting that rear heater valve out of the block. I'm afraid it's gonna break off, although I wouldn't think that a pipe that hefty would snap in two.  The heater valve is attached to the pipe that is attached to the block.

Brass fittings with pipe threads can deform (and thus seal) a little on first use so sometimes you can get away without pipe compound the first time you install a new brass fitting. But in general pipe compound or teflon tape should be used. I find I have better luck with a good pipe joint compound than with teflon tape. Not better luck as far as sealing but better luck in not getting bits and pieces of teflon tape inside the plumbing.

For items on my old car, I use the old fashioned gray colored stuff on the assumption that some will stay visible and grey seems more period correct than blue. For plumbing in the house, there is a blue colored joint compound that works really, really well (it also does not wash out of your clothes so you need to be neat).

It could be that the pipe screwed into your head has significant rust on the inside and is not nearly as "hefty" as you think. If it does snap, some good penetrating fluid and an "easy out" might get the remains out of the block.

[Don Coatney]

This stuff is nasty but works well.