ssnowden Posted June 26, 2016 Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 I found a 1953 truck on CL that I couldn't pass up. The body is solid, although someone started unbolting the front fenders. The bed has no rust and isn't beat up and the running boards are even good. The only things missing are the grill pieces and the drive shaft. I can live without the grill pieces, but not the driveshaft. So if you have a driveshaft, please message me! The engine is running and it has the Spitfire head on it. More pics to come. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted June 26, 2016 Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 Spitfire head indicates the truck has a long (25") engine from a Chrysler. Might even be a 265" engine with a full flow oil filtering system. Post photos of the engine distributor side. Look for the engine number on a flat surface just below the head above the generator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted June 26, 2016 Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 Most likely the aftermarket "Spitsfire" head. But either way, welcome to the truck side. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted June 26, 2016 Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 (edited) Cool truck, good luck with your build! Oh....and some of us even prefer no grill bars!! Edited June 26, 2016 by 4mula-dlx 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted June 26, 2016 Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 Most likely the aftermarket "Spitsfire" head. But either way, welcome to the truck side. I think there is only one aftermarket Spitsfire head in existence thanks to the artist Reg Evans. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssnowden Posted June 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 More pics. The numbers on the engine weren't readable. I'll have to do some clean up to see if they can be read. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brent B3B Posted June 26, 2016 Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 welcome to the truck side indeed! good save.... what is the long term goal? with that governor on it, I wonder if it is a 236 or 265? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssnowden Posted June 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 welcome to the truck side indeed! good save.... what is the long term goal? with that governor on it, I wonder if it is a 236 or 265? Thanks. I do have to credit the seller. He didn't sell it 3 different times before me because he found out they were going to cut it up and make a rat rod. He didn't want to see that good of a truck cut up. My long term goal is to get it a dependable driver. I'd like to start with the original drivetrain and eventually switch out the rear end and transmission to make it go better on the highway and upgrade the brakes. Other than that, I want it to look like an original truck with the flathead 6 powering it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssnowden Posted June 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2016 I found the serial number on the engine. It was on the top instead of the side of the area on the block. If http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/cengines.html is right, this is from a 1949 Chrysler Royal or Windsor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1952B3b23 Posted June 27, 2016 Report Share Posted June 27, 2016 Welcome and nice save. It wasnt uncommon for the original truck engines to get swapped for one from a car. When i bought my '52 B3b it had a 1953 Plymouth 218 in it. That motor is now in my '39 Plymouth Coupe. -Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted June 27, 2016 Report Share Posted June 27, 2016 I found the serial number on the engine. It was on the top instead of the side of the area on the block. If http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/cengines.html is right, this is from a 1949 Chrysler Royal or Windsor. Your engine should be 251 cubic inches. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssnowden Posted June 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2016 I'm doing a wide search for the drive shaft now. vikingminer49er has one, but his knowledge of them was helpful to determine that his had an older type of connection. I need the one with the snap ring retainers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssnowden Posted June 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2016 I've been having a difficult time finding a drive shaft, but I found a place to get one made. Since I have to get one fabricated, I decided to go ahead and get a modern rear end and do that replacement that I had planned for the future anyway. So I ran over today to the local salvage yard and got one from a 94 Cherokee. I also got the master cylinder and proportioning valve from the donor Jeep as well. Since I'll have modern brakes on the rear and master cylinder, I went ahead and ordered a Scarebird disc brake kit for the front. Hopefully this will get my drive line and brake systems squared away. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted July 1, 2016 Report Share Posted July 1, 2016 If you ever had any ideas of a T5 swap to get OD, then now is the time to do that mod as well before building a new custom driveshaft...the new one wouldn't fit if you switched later on 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssnowden Posted July 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2016 I'll look around for a T5. The S10s are getting harder to find around here. Is there another one that works as well for the trucks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted July 1, 2016 Report Share Posted July 1, 2016 The S truck T5 works best because of the shifter placement, not sure what other ones would work...I know Mustang is not a fit. The full size 1/2 tons with V6's used the T5 as well I believe...should be the same...but that might be even rarer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssnowden Posted July 4, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 I made some progress on the truck. I have the bed and the rear end removed now. Getting ready to put the Jeep rear end in it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted July 4, 2016 Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 Careful cutting the old spring perches on the old jeep rear diff, and make sure you have good heat and penatration when welding on the new perches.....sorry...obvious stuff I know...but that's a pretty crucial part to the swap, and it's also s good time to service those rear shackles...I know mine weren't great when I started. Good luck 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted July 4, 2016 Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 ". . . make sure you have good heat and penatration when welding on the new perches.....sorry...obvious stuff I know...but that's a pretty crucial part to the swap, " Per 4mula's comment, I am going to check the welds on my Jeep axle. They are four years old. TKS for the heads up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NiftyFifty Posted July 4, 2016 Report Share Posted July 4, 2016 Checked mine over this spring when I removed 2 more leaves from the rear springs...looked good, but I went with my arc, rather then my mig , just to be sure I was getting them stuck good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssnowden Posted July 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 I got the hood and front end removed. I'm going to put the 1953 truck engine I have in this for a few reasons, one is the oil pan clearance. I have two transmissions: a 3 speed and a 4 speed. With the Jeep 3:55 rear end, I was reading several threads and I'm leaning toward the 3 speed since it seems like first gear isn't used much in the 4 speeds. Are there any other considerations for using the 4 speed over the 3? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted July 6, 2016 Report Share Posted July 6, 2016 Column vs floor shift. Possibly syncro trans vs non. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssnowden Posted July 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2016 I have the Jeep rear end fitted in now. I still have to do aligning and perch welding, but it fit in like a glove to the original hangers. I'm using the perches from the old axel. New shocks should be here tomorrow and new shackles are on the way too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssnowden Posted July 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2016 I got the cab off today. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ssnowden Posted July 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2016 I noticed that the longer block sits at a pretty steep angle. I'm not sure how level these need to be, but I imagine that it would introduce a few problems. I'm going to use the shorter block engine from a truck so it will fit in there as designed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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