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Posted

I found a 1953 truck on CL that I couldn't pass up. The body is solid, although someone started unbolting the front fenders. The bed has no rust and isn't beat up and the running boards are even good. 

 

The only things missing are the grill pieces and the drive shaft. I can live without the grill pieces, but not the driveshaft. So if you have a driveshaft, please message me!

 

The engine is running and it has the Spitfire head on it. More pics to come. 

 

Bringing it home

 

  • Like 6
Posted

Spitfire head indicates the truck has a long (25") engine from a Chrysler. Might even be a 265" engine with a full flow oil filtering system. Post photos of the engine distributor side. Look for the engine number on a flat surface just below the head above the generator.

Posted

Most likely the aftermarket "Spitsfire" head. But either way, welcome to the truck side. B)

I think there is only one aftermarket Spitsfire head in existence thanks to the artist Reg Evans.

 

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  • Like 3
Posted

More pics. The numbers on the engine weren't readable. I'll have to do some clean up to see if they can be read. 

 

 

Posted

welcome to the truck side indeed! :)  good save.... what is the long term goal?

 

with that governor on it, I wonder if it is a 236 or 265?  

Posted

welcome to the truck side indeed! :)  good save.... what is the long term goal?

 

with that governor on it, I wonder if it is a 236 or 265?  

 

Thanks. I do have to credit the seller. He didn't sell it 3 different times before me because he found out they were going to cut it up and make a rat rod. He didn't want to see that good of a truck cut up. 

 

My long term goal is to get it a dependable driver. I'd like to start with the original drivetrain and eventually switch out the rear end and transmission to make it go better on the highway and upgrade the brakes. Other than that, I want it to look like an original truck with the flathead 6 powering it.

Posted

Welcome and nice save. It wasnt uncommon for the original truck engines to get swapped for one from a car. When i bought my '52 B3b it had a 1953 Plymouth 218 in it. That motor is now in my '39 Plymouth Coupe.

 

-Chris

Posted

I'm doing a wide search for the drive shaft now.

 

vikingminer49er has one, but his knowledge of them was helpful to determine that his had an older type of connection. I need the one with the snap ring retainers. 

 

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Posted

I've been having a difficult time finding a drive shaft, but I found a place to get one made. Since I have to get one fabricated, I decided to go ahead and get a modern rear end and do that replacement that I had planned for the future anyway. So I ran over today to the local salvage yard and got one from a 94 Cherokee.

 

I also got the master cylinder and proportioning valve from the donor Jeep as well. Since I'll have modern brakes on the rear and master cylinder, I went ahead and ordered a Scarebird disc brake kit for the front.  Hopefully this will get my drive line and brake systems squared away. 

  • Like 2
Posted

If you ever had any ideas of a T5 swap to get OD, then now is the time to do that mod as well before building a new custom driveshaft...the new one wouldn't fit if you switched later on

  • Like 2
Posted

I'll look around for a T5. The S10s are getting harder to find around here. Is there another one that works as well for the trucks?

Posted

The S truck T5 works best because of the shifter placement, not sure what other ones would work...I know Mustang is not a fit. The full size 1/2 tons with V6's used the T5 as well I believe...should be the same...but that might be even rarer

Posted

I made some progress on the truck. I have the bed and the rear end removed now. Getting ready to put the Jeep rear end in it. 

 

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  • Like 1
Posted

Careful cutting the old spring perches on the old jeep rear diff, and make sure you have good heat and penatration when welding on the new perches.....sorry...obvious stuff I know...but that's a pretty crucial part to the swap, and it's also s good time to service those rear shackles...I know mine weren't great when I started. Good luck

  • Like 1
Posted

". . . make sure you have good heat and penatration when welding on the new perches.....sorry...obvious stuff I know...but that's a pretty crucial part to the swap, "

Per 4mula's comment, I am going to check the welds on my Jeep axle. They are four years old. TKS for the heads up.

Posted

Checked mine over this spring when I removed 2 more leaves from the rear springs...looked good, but I went with my arc, rather then my mig , just to be sure I was getting them stuck good

Posted

I got the hood and front end removed.

 

IMG 0959

 

I'm going to put the 1953 truck engine I have in this for a few reasons, one is the oil pan clearance. I have two transmissions: a 3 speed and a 4 speed. With the Jeep 3:55 rear end, I was reading several threads and I'm leaning toward the 3 speed since it seems like first gear isn't used much in the 4 speeds. Are there any other considerations for using the 4 speed over the 3? 

Posted

Column vs floor shift. Possibly syncro trans vs non. 

Posted

I have the Jeep rear end fitted in now. I still have to do aligning and perch welding, but it fit in like a glove to the original hangers. I'm using the perches from the old axel. New shocks should be here tomorrow and new shackles are on the way too. 

 

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Posted

I noticed that the longer block sits at a pretty steep angle.  I'm not sure how level these need to be, but I imagine that it would introduce a few problems.

 

IMG 0980

 

I'm going to use the shorter block engine from a truck so it will fit in there as designed. 

  • Like 1

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