CowboyConnor Posted February 23, 2016 Report Posted February 23, 2016 So yall, I am in a pickle. I have my engine currently at the shop where it has been rebored and honed. The owner called yesterday and told me there was a little bit of space between the piston, rings, and cylinder in #6. He said that id burn a little oil and maybe smoke a bit. I cannot decide if I should have him take more off the cylinder wall and just order larger pistons, and rings (again). Or If I should just leave it. Needing some advice. I personally feel I have too much blood, sweat (money) and tears in this car to not have it re-done. Also, what do you think a fair price to rebore would be? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 23, 2016 Report Posted February 23, 2016 (edited) who made the call on what over sized piston and ring set you have now...? might be best to sleeve bad cylinder and bore to the same as the others you now have new pistons for.. Edited February 23, 2016 by Plymouthy Adams 2 Quote
bones44 Posted February 23, 2016 Report Posted February 23, 2016 Have them sleeve it and bore the same as the others 1 Quote
dpollo Posted February 23, 2016 Report Posted February 23, 2016 I agree with Bones and PA. sleeve it and bore to match the others. This will be a lot cheaper than any other alternatives and it is a permanent repair. As you suggested, you have too much invested to press on as is and wind up with a stinker. As to actual cost, it has been some time since I have sleeved anything, but you need only one. I cannot see the extra work costing more than $150. The shop should cut you some slack here since someone chose the wrong oversize or bored one cylinder too big. Too late to point any fingers but fair is fair. 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 23, 2016 Report Posted February 23, 2016 dpollo, on 23 Feb 2016 - 09:59 AM, said: I agree with Bones and PA. sleeve it and bore to match the others. This will be a lot cheaper than any other alternatives and it is a permanent repair. As you suggested, you have too much invested to press on as is and wind up with a stinker. As to actual cost, it has been some time since I have sleeved anything, but you need only one. I cannot see the extra work costing more than $150. The shop should cut you some slack here since someone chose the wrong oversize or bored one cylinder too big. Too late to point any fingers but fair is fair. Why I asked the question on who made the call on the newly purchased pistons and rings...if the shop made that call..the cost of sleeving should be at a somewhat discount and the boring to size is already covered in the first bore process. If the owner made the call, bought and supplied the pistons to the shop, then the shop was only at fault for trying to accommodate the owner. Quote
dpollo Posted February 23, 2016 Report Posted February 23, 2016 P A is quite correct and there is nothing to be gained by getting anyone's back up. Quote
Don Coatney Posted February 23, 2016 Report Posted February 23, 2016 That is the reason I pay the machine shop to buy the critical parts. I have never had a machine shop gouge me on the cost of the parts they supply. and they know what size is required. Buying parts prior to a rebuild is asking for trouble. 1 Quote
CowboyConnor Posted February 23, 2016 Author Report Posted February 23, 2016 The shop told me what to buy once they had started the boring process. Everything else fits nicely except #6. This car is my baby and I want what is best in the long run for it haha. Would sleeving be just as good long term as boring all of them out larger and going with larger pistons and rings? Quote
dale Posted February 23, 2016 Report Posted February 23, 2016 ID personally get it bored to the max. plane the head, replace the valves and seats ( if they have seats ) so to burn unleaded. Good idea for a HD oil pump. You need all the horsepower you can get for this car .. Quote
mrwrstory Posted February 23, 2016 Report Posted February 23, 2016 Most important is to understand how just one cylinder, #6, got to be the wrong size. If the shop screwed up, (seems like the case) they bear responsibility. I suggest, as many others have, the oversize cylinder gets a sleeve. I also agree with you and others that rather than making it a battle, offer to pay for the rework in order to give the shop some slack and not, at this late stage, have someone in a adversarial mood expediting the correction. Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted February 23, 2016 Report Posted February 23, 2016 mrwrstory, on 23 Feb 2016 - 11:25 AM, said:Most important is to understand how just one cylinder, #6, got to be the wrong size. If the shop screwed up, (seems like the case) they bear responsibility. I suggest, as many others have, the oversize cylinder gets a sleeve. I also agree with you and others that rather than making it a battle, offer to pay for the rework in order to give the shop some slack and not, at this late stage, have someone in a adversarial mood expediting the correction. as I read it, the estimated bore for clean up was incorrect and left a cylinder "no so clean and smooth" requiring a bit more removal of metal to clean up which WILL make a cylinder out of proportion to the others.....this was his question, bore all larger or forfeit the block. I do not think he had consider option 3 of sleeving at the time. 1 Quote
CowboyConnor Posted February 23, 2016 Author Report Posted February 23, 2016 I had not thought of sleeving until you all suggested it. I am happy with the shop because they are doing something for me that I cannot. No battle here! Just want to get it right the first time. Im planning on this being the only time the engine ever comes all the way out of this car so it has to be done the right way. Thank you all for your help! Quote
dpollo Posted February 23, 2016 Report Posted February 23, 2016 Perhaps not the final word but I think you have the right idea now. One further point, The valve seats will be just fine as long as they are still serviceable. They will handle unleaded fuel. I did an engine many years ago for a customer who was using his 50 Ply. as a daily car Rebore, reground crank, touched up the valves and seats. It ran 70 000 miles on unleaded gas before a tree fell on the car. The engine was removed, top end checked for wear ( it was OK ) and installed in another car and is still running well at 80 000 + miles. This is more than the average life of a new engine, so valve seat recession is not likely to be a problem. Good luck and good going in your "newly rebuilt " Plymouth. Quote
CowboyConnor Posted February 23, 2016 Author Report Posted February 23, 2016 Thanks Dpollo. I ended up buying all new parts for the engine so it should run well once finished. Quote
knuckleharley Posted February 23, 2016 Report Posted February 23, 2016 So yall, I am in a pickle. I have my engine currently at the shop where it has been rebored and honed. The owner called yesterday and told me there was a little bit of space between the piston, rings, and cylinder in #6. He said that id burn a little oil and maybe smoke a bit. I cannot decide if I should have him take more off the cylinder wall and just order larger pistons, and rings (again). Or If I should just leave it. Needing some advice. I personally feel I have too much blood, sweat (money) and tears in this car to not have it re-done. Also, what do you think a fair price to rebore would be? I have no idea why that one cylinder would be overbore more than the others. Maybe a slight flaw in it,or maybe your machinist just overbored them to fit the pistons he could find,and one didn't clean up enough? I give him props for calling you and telling you are it,instead of just finishing it up and then blaming you for doing something during break-in that caused it. Regardless,what you need to do is have that one cylinder re-sleeved,and then bored to size to match the new piston and rings. Egge Machine Shop sells cylinder sleeves for old cars and trucks,but I am sure they are available from a bunch of other sources because they are made to a specific size,not to a specific engine. I would visit the machinist so I could be looking into his eyes as I asked him why he didn't suggest sleeving that one cylinder to start with,and if he has ever done it before. If you are not happy with what you see,pay him what you owe him for what he has done,and leave with your engine and all assorted parts right THEN and hunt down a more experienced machine shop to finish it up. Quote
CowboyConnor Posted February 23, 2016 Author Report Posted February 23, 2016 He said he is going to machine it more and sleeve it. I bought egges full kit for it so I will stick with them. I snagged some pictures of it too. 1 Quote
mmcdowel Posted February 23, 2016 Report Posted February 23, 2016 Was excessive smoking the need for the rebuild in the first place or did it have other issues? Quote
Reg Evans Posted February 23, 2016 Report Posted February 23, 2016 From the photo you posted of the block I saw lots of pitting around the valves on #5 & 6. Must have blown a head gasket and then sat for a long while. Quote
CowboyConnor Posted February 23, 2016 Author Report Posted February 23, 2016 Reg, is this a problem or is there an easy fix to get everything to seal up right? Quote
Reg Evans Posted February 23, 2016 Report Posted February 23, 2016 Those pits, if still there, should not be a problem as long as you re-sleeve #6. Quote
dale Posted February 24, 2016 Report Posted February 24, 2016 When I was a kid we took an old wornout Plymouth and traded it in for a chrysler six bored 1/16 over at Sears Roebuck for about $250.. People thought the old Ply had a V-8..Can you even buy ready to install rebuilts like a Plymouth anymore ? Quote
CowboyConnor Posted February 24, 2016 Author Report Posted February 24, 2016 Here are two before pictures of the engine 1 Quote
Young Ed Posted February 24, 2016 Report Posted February 24, 2016 Have you talked to the shop yet? What did they say? Quote
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