59bisquik Posted December 10, 2015 Report Posted December 10, 2015 I am getting ready to put the bed back together. However, my Dad didnt take pictures when he took it apart and I havent found anything during search or on Google. What is the correct order of the bed crossmembers and which way do they face? Thanks guys! Quote
ggdad1951 Posted December 10, 2015 Report Posted December 10, 2015 Look at the bef build link on my signature. It may not help. Best bet is to dry fit your bedside to see what might lineup. Quote
48Dodger Posted December 10, 2015 Report Posted December 10, 2015 (edited) From the cab to the tailgate: Cross supports are "C" shape, punched channeled steel, first three opening's facing the tailgate. The fourth channel is shorter than the first three, with the opening facing the cab. The third channel does not have a large bolt attached to the frame. 48D Note: Information is referenced from 48-50 dodge trucks at my location. Your last two channels look switched.....sorry my pics aren't better.....not enough light for my aging phone. Edited December 10, 2015 by 48dodger Quote
59bisquik Posted December 10, 2015 Author Report Posted December 10, 2015 OK... swapped the short one to the rear. Now for the last question, two of the long ones are the same with a notch at the ends and the third has an offset at the ends. I am guessing this one goes closest to the cab because it had some bolts torched off of it? You can see one of the torch spots on the back of it in the pic. Quote
JBNeal Posted December 10, 2015 Report Posted December 10, 2015 grey beard's reflooring project Quote
Phil363 Posted December 10, 2015 Report Posted December 10, 2015 (edited) Here is my cross member support sequence on my 1952 B-3-B. It is the same as the others have posted here. There are rubber support pads under the 1st, 2nd, and 4th cross sills that a bolt runs through to the frame. The 3rd cross sill (from the front of the bed) does not attach to the frame (just bolts to the bed floor and support strips themselves) but has two circular rubber pads with a dimple that measure approx. 2 1/2 inch in diameter and 1/4 inch thick. I will post a photo of one once I get home tonight. Your Pickup frame is looking good being painted now. Phil Edited December 10, 2015 by Phil363 3 Quote
59bisquik Posted December 10, 2015 Author Report Posted December 10, 2015 Thanks guys. So looking at Phils pictures, the angle bracket on the bed sides bolt to the crossmember and then the wood sits on top and then has the metal bed strips on top correct? Quote
Phil363 Posted December 10, 2015 Report Posted December 10, 2015 (edited) The angle bracket bolts to the bed sides and the frame rail and provides the ground for your original taillights which are attached to the bed sides. Attached the best photos I took that I have of both angle brackets going from the sides to the frame. It is important to make sure that you have metal to metal contact on both ends or the taillights will not work. The second photo shows the location that the bracket bolted to my frame and I have left the bolt in the hole just to remind me. Your connection location may be different from mine as you have a 1955 model. Edited December 11, 2015 by Phil363 1 Quote
ggdad1951 Posted December 11, 2015 Report Posted December 11, 2015 Thanks guys. So looking at Phils pictures, the angle bracket on the bed sides bolt to the crossmember and then the wood sits on top and then has the metal bed strips on top correct? look thru my thread as well: http://p15-d24.com/topic/30202-building-your-own-wood-bed/?hl=%2Bbuilding+%2Bwood+%2Bbed the proper order is (from top to bottom) bed side angle bracket : wood : crossmember : anti squeek material : frame 1 Quote
Tooljunkie Posted September 8, 2020 Report Posted September 8, 2020 I know this is an old thread, but i found it very helpful to get my box back together. Not a restoration by any means, but to get it to useable condition. thanks for the helpful information. Just need to pick up 6 carriage bolts and make up some washers. i had box standing up on end,squared with a couple ratchet straps and it went together easily. I placed box on frame as an assembly. Very happy with the end result, including removing the plating off the carriage bolts,vinegar works very well. Quote
Dozerman51 Posted September 8, 2020 Report Posted September 8, 2020 Looks like like a real job to me. Quote
Tooljunkie Posted September 8, 2020 Report Posted September 8, 2020 Was easier than i expected. Reused the bed strips, crossmembers from a donor box. drilled holes through crossmembers for frame bolts and everything lined up. repurposed wood, was rough sawn pine from my barn attic. Quote
bkahler Posted September 8, 2020 Report Posted September 8, 2020 18 hours ago, Tooljunkie said: Very happy with the end result, including removing the plating off the carriage bolts,vinegar works very well. Ok, I have to ask, why remove the plating? Quote
Tooljunkie Posted September 8, 2020 Report Posted September 8, 2020 (edited) 3 hours ago, bkahler said: Ok, I have to ask, why remove the plating? Sore thumb syndrome. I cant have any shiny bolts on the outside of this truck. Only reason i finished the lumber is to preserve it. And knocking the shine off all those bolts would be tedious. Edited September 8, 2020 by Tooljunkie Quote
Bobacuda Posted September 9, 2020 Report Posted September 9, 2020 There are A LOT of bolts to tighten. Sorry I don't have the before photo, but I do have a helpful tip. I did this back around 1978 by crawling around with lots of truck in the way. This last time, I made a roll around, open top cart to set the bed on for reassembly. The roll around cart will allow you (or some other poor soul) the "ease" of going under the bed to tighten all of the bolts with minimal things in the way. Over the years, the bed sides on my truck kind of "pouched" out, so this also allowed me to use straps and manpower to push them back in while bolting the bed wood straps in place. 2 Quote
Young Ed Posted September 9, 2020 Report Posted September 9, 2020 5 hours ago, Tooljunkie said: Sore thumb syndrome. I cant have any shiny bolts on the outside of this truck. Only reason i finished the lumber is to preserve it. And knocking the shine off all those bolts would be tedious. Funny the stuff we do. I did my truck with all stainless bolts. The original batch had nice smooth heads. During a test fit I ruined a couple (learned you need anti seize) and the replacements had letters on the head. Even though I'm sure no one would ever notice I filed the letters off those replacements 2 Quote
Tooljunkie Posted September 9, 2020 Report Posted September 9, 2020 You had a particular way you wanted it to look. As do i. i knew what i wanted the dash to look like,clean and shiny, along with whole interior. Original patina outside, inside neat and clean. 1 Quote
ggdad1951 Posted September 9, 2020 Report Posted September 9, 2020 coulda left one shiny so you could have a "where's waldo" thing goin! Quote
bkahler Posted September 9, 2020 Report Posted September 9, 2020 15 hours ago, Tooljunkie said: Sore thumb syndrome. I cant have any shiny bolts on the outside of this truck. Only reason i finished the lumber is to preserve it. And knocking the shine off all those bolts would be tedious. That makes sense as does your reasoning. The only time I used vinegar was to try and de-rust a sports car wheel and I made the mistake of thinking more soaking time is better. That was a mistake! Quote
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