Suburban, 53 Plymouth

[pflaming]

It appears I have a valve adjustment problem. Seems one of the valves does not want to return all the way down, so that could mean it is obviously staying open, ergo, no compression.

Will attack it tomorrow.

Update: two pictures the left valve stem is a full 1/8 " open. Either the valve is stuck or the lifter needs to come up.

Edited June 6, 2017 by pflaming

[Dodgeb4ya]

I'd try to start it and let it idle if it will to see if the valve will free up.

Don't rev it as it will force the valve to stay stuck up all the way up!.

I have been through this many times with customers cars that sat and had a partially stuck valve or two.

Spraying lube on the valve stem while the engine is idling if it will helps to free up a stuck valve.

You can also wedge the spring and valve down with the cam lobe pointing down too.

[DJ194950]

Both pics show to my eye the valve in the middle of pics is not  closing(not coming down in contact with the lifter) My reading glasses may be at fault also.?

 

DJ

Edited May 17, 2016 by DJ194950

[pflaming]

Update: my knees were so sore I have taken two weeks off and let them heal some. So have been putting my shop back in order and doing some deep cleaning.

 

Good thing because I found these parts. I need the engine mounts, the front engine mount, the window slips, and could have used that timing cover gasket, and those nice new manifold nuts and washers. An hour later I found a carburator rebuild kit, and a seal for the timing gear cover. 

My auto body friend had a mild stroke, so just now I don't have a body for this engine.

Edited June 6, 2017 by pflaming

[pflaming]

Still working, just more careful. Since my auto body friend had a stroke that car is not available so will have to use a different body. So now I'm pulled between transmissions the overdrive or a std three speed, so I cleaned up one while in transition mode. I first used Oven-off, then Super Clean full strength, then phosphoric acid, carb cleaner to eliminate stray oil and finally paint. Now it can cure for a few days.

Edited June 6, 2017 by pflaming

[pflaming]

Phoenix is at the glass shop getting new door Windows. Then hook up the turn signals, put in a seat, new rear shocks and its a daily driver again so now the Suburban returns. Last week I met a neighbor who is a retired body shop worker. He needs occasional shop space and has a mig welder and I need a new floor. We are having coffee in a day or two.

So with an outside temp of 105 I've been studying how to install my EZ Wiring, 18 circuit kit. I was trying to learn how to wire the dash and found this picture. " A picture is worth . . . "

The dash and the engine are ready to install so, wish me well, oh and the knees are better also.

[pflaming]

I always enjoy reading / looking at work in progress because those reports often deal with unique situations and solutions. This morning the suburban arrived at the shop. Tomorrow will address the front frame. So here goes! Will start with the front bumper and work my way back.

With a portion of the floor missing the brake master cylinder is easily accessible so will swap in a dual cylinder before I close up the floor.

Edited June 28, 2016 by pflaming

[pflaming]

Update on the disassembly. I've never worked on a car suspension so I'm cutting new tracks. I know this is old hat, to most but it's my journey.

Below post: I was curious about those springs, so I had my floor jack under holding the tension, then after top bolts were out, I slowly lowered the brake drum, worked out ok.

Edited June 6, 2017 by pflaming

[DJ194950]

If it's totally new and you got it off without the front springs flying out and Hurting- Anything. You have done good!

 

Time to clean and clean, check for looseness,etc. 

 

Good on Ya,

 

DJ

[pflaming]

The frame is cleaning up. A screwdriver as a chisel, a good putty knife, a wire wheel on my drill mother then 80 grit on the DA gets it clean enough for me. Ace has a product called Prep and Etch which is POR 15 at a third of the price, so will use that. I want the brake and fuel lines fitted before I paint, eliminate some potential scratches. Suspension is soaking with a degreaser then steam clean on Tuesday. And the beat goes on.

Edited June 6, 2017 by pflaming

[DJ194950]

Good job, that is diry work.

 

I must ask- when do you plan to straighten the frame front horn AND check to make sure that that front part of the frame itself did not get bent out of shape?

 

My 49-54 Plymouth repair manual has frame specs, measurements to insure frames are straight. The only problem to be of help to you is this book shows frame measurements of 46-50 frames only. Perhaps your appropriate year repair manual will have those?

 

Keep it up Paul! 

 

DJ

 

Edit to correct years for frame specs.

Edited July 2, 2016 by DJ194950

[pflaming]

That has been checked and all is square, but will do a second measurement now that the frame is clean. The horn will be repaired on Monday. There are "build holes" in the frame. Those are what count the most. I learned that from my friend in Elko, GA. TKS Tim.

[pflaming]

I looked at Rusty Hope's kit last night. What is the benefit of the frame attached shock absorber option? Will order a kit so curious about that option.

Edited July 3, 2016 by pflaming

[casper50]

I ordered one for my 47 coupe.  I'm pretty sure it was from RH.  Paid $50 if I remember correctly.  All that I received was 2 uprights cut out of 3/8's metal.  I had to weld a plate on the side that attaches to the frame as I didn't think the frame could handle that small of an attachment area.  I can send you a paper pattern that will save you $50 if you wish.

[pflaming]

Time to stop the rust. I treated the frame this afternoon, wonder what it will look like tomorrow. I used Prep and Prime from Jasco at $9.00 a quart.

Edited June 6, 2017 by pflaming

[casper50]

Painting over or leaving it?

[Young Ed]

Don't do too much prep work done before you get that frame horn fixed. When they did mine they used heat along with pulling and all your paint would get burnt off.

[pflaming]

Ed, TKS for the reminder. I wanted to have a clean frame to work with and I treated it for rust control. These pics show what Prep and Prime looks like after an overbite cure.

I stated that this product is the same as POR 15. POR 15 has a number of products the one used on frames, etc., is a coating, this product is essentially phosphoric acid, very similar to Klean's product Prep and Etch to which clear coat paint will adhere to " protect" an original patina look.

I will paint this frame once the frame is mended.

Two hours with a high pressure steam cleaner saved a lot of time and work. The king pin is tight, good news. Now how do I determine how far I should repair. I realize some will say, do it all, do it the right way, yet there are practical options. I'm thinking of replacing bushings and rubber parts, but then that is a total repair. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" is a consideration.

Edited June 6, 2017 by pflaming

[Desotodav]

Looks like you are making good progress Paul. Personally, I would want to overhaul as much of the suspension as I could for safety reasons. Keep up the good work!

I notice that you have springs installed around the brake drums and wonder is some here can satisfy my curiosity. I have heard a couple of stories of springs being installed around brake drums as an squeal minimizing measure, and another story of springs being installed for a heat dispersant for drums which are getting thin. I don't want to hijack your thread Paul, but just wondered if someone in the know had a simple explanation.

Edited July 4, 2016 by Desotodav

[Dave72dt]

Probably for the squealing.  I know when turning drums a band is put on them or they start making that irritating chalkboard sound.

[pflaming]

Dave, are these drums with springs then unique, if so I'll put them on my shop wall. Discs are going on the front so they are coming off anyway.

[Dave72dt]

No, not unique.  Any number of drums came with the springs on them, often rusted and/or broken when they came in for turning and usually didn't get replaced.  Replacement drums usually didn't get them replaced either.

[pflaming]

Per a discussion with E--------- of Detriot, we concluded that it is "likely " that my 13.5" inch coils have had 2.5" removed, that since the king pins, and all other joints are tight, that all rubber has no cracks and is not hard, that the tie rods and rubber socks are tight and soft the front suspension "may" have been rebuilt just prior to being parked.

I had a friend come and look as well and he said, " I would not even change the shocks, I would reinstall and drive it. ". So . . . We will see. All has been painted and will be installed tomorrow.

Edit: I just removed the small stamped metal rectangle from this '53 suburban and it reads Briggs Mfg Detroit. The tag from my '54 suburban reads Chrysler Corp. Detroit, interesting. Any one know the history on that?

Edited June 6, 2017 by pflaming

[JerseyHarold]

"Edit: I just removed the small stamped metal rectangle from this '53 suburban and it reads Briggs Mfg Detroit. The tag from my '54 suburban reads Chrysler Corp. Detroit, interesting. Any one know the history on that?" 

 

Chrysler bought Briggs Manufacturing in 1953, hence the change on the body tag.

[pflaming]

" Chrysler bought Briggs Manufacturing in 1953, hence the change on the body tag."

Would that make a '53 suburban more valuable than a '54? Or visa versa?