Help! Stumped on P15 Standard Clutch Replacement

[J.P.G.]

Hello All,

 

I am in need of some advice. I'm currently attempting to replace the clutch in my 1946 Plymouth Deluxe Club Coupe. I have disconnected the drive shaft and transmission, but can't figure out the best way to access the clutch and flywheel. My shop manual doesn't get into very much detail here at all, and I'm stumped.

 

The bell housing seems to bolt on top of a frame crossmember. So, what is the best next step in removing this?

 

Is there an easiest way to remove the clutch linkages from the bell housing? (That is, should I just disconnect them from the clutch petal, or from the bell housing?)

 

Does the clutch plate put pressure on the bell housing (that is, will it spring off when I take out the bolts)?

 

Should I remove the flywheel cover?

 

Is the engine supported directly by this bell housing (since it's bolted to the frame)? If so, how should I support the engine while making this repair?

 

Many Thanks in Advance, and Best,

 

J.P.G.

[J.P.G.]

Hello Again,

 

To clarify, this car is totally original in its components and configuration, and has a standard three speed transmission without overdrive or Fluid Drive.

 

Thanks Again,

 

J.P.G.

[Plymouthy Adams]

fly wheel cover comes off...you will loosen the clutch cover a bit at a time around the circumference of the cover...it will drop down and out..inspect flywheel and clutch over for score, heat marks or cracks due to stress..inspect the pilot bushing..good time to replace as a insurance policy...

[Don Coatney]

This might or might not help.

 

[_shel_ny]

You do not need to remove the bell housing to remove the clutch and pressure plate.

 

Remove the pan assy. 6-10-2. Turn the engine by hand to gain access to the bolts holding the pressure plate (6-14-1 in the diagram.) As Don C and others have suggested in the past, make a scribe mark or 2 of your choice on the flywheel and pressure plate to assist in locating in back where it came from when you put it all back in.

 

You can remove spring 6-27-5, and let rod 6-24-1 swing down to take pressure off the fork 6-22-1 (not that there is much there, but it will let the fork and release bearing flop around a bit more.)

 

The clutch and pressure plate do not touch the bell housing. They must be free to turn.

Edited September 15, 2015 by shel_ny

[Ulu]

...you will loosen the clutch cover a bit at a time...

 

Yes, Very Important!

 

DO NOT take the bolts out (or replace them) one at a time!

 

If you don't loosen the bolts evenly, you can warp the clutch cover.

 

Then the thing will chatter and drag & annoy you forever.

[J.P.G.]

Hello Again,

 

Thanks very much for all of your advice! It's exactly what I needed, particularly the diagram. I'm pleased to say that I've successfully removed the clutch and flywheel, and will ship the former off to be rebuilt and take the latter to be ground smooth tomorrow.

 

This forum is a godsend, I don't think any other vintage of antique car has a stronger support system. 

 

Now, all I have to do it put it all back together (I reckon I'll be back with another question shortly, ha!).

 

Thanks Again!

[P15-D24]

Take the floor board out. Makes accessing everything a lot easier. 

[greg g]

Where are you in western PA?  Reason I ask is that there is a fellow who is a Mopar flathead master in that area.  His name is George Ashe and he has a wealth of information regarding these cars.  he also re manufactures carburetors, makes dual intake and exhaust manifolds, rebuilds and sells overdrive transmissions ect.  He lives in Venus, PA.  near Oil City.

[lahti35]

Where are you in western PA?  Reason I ask is that there is a fellow who is a Mopar flathead master in that area.  His name is George Ashe and he has a wealth of information regarding these cars.  he also re manufactures carburetors, makes dual intake and exhaust manifolds, rebuilds and sells overdrive transmissions ect.  He lives in Venus, PA.  near Oil City.

Wow! What's this dude's contact info?

[_shel_ny]

Wow! What's this dude's contact info?

 

Do advanced search. "George Ashe".

 

Lots to read.

Edited September 17, 2015 by shel_ny

[deathbound]

Wow! What's this dude's contact info?

George Asche, nicest guy you'll ever talk to.....(814)354-2621

[J.P.G.]

Good stuff! I'm in Sewickley, a small town 15 miles north of Pittsburgh. Oil City isn't far at all, maybe an hour's drive. I've always loved the stock configuration of my car, but a duel intake sounds pretty tempting, I must say. Do they notably improve performance?

[J.P.G.]

And it's great to hear there's an expert near by, I'm pretty new to all of this. I've had the car for five years now, but it's never needed any major matinence til now.

[greg g]

Do Take heed, a short conversation with George is about 45 minutes minimum.  

[J.P.G.]

Say, I've another question. I'd like to remove the bell housing anyway to clean it and clear the vents. I've removed what I believe is every bolt, but it's stuck fast. How do I remove it?

[greg g]

it is located with dowels.  Probably they are corroded and hanging up.  You could accomplish the cleaning and checking of the the vents by removing the center section of the front floor as mentioned above.

[J.P.G.]

I've already removed the floor, but I'm so close to getting it out, I'd hate to have to reassemble everything without cleaning it. There's 70 years of grease and dirt caked on everything. Where are these dowels? Maybe if I spray some pblaster on them, it'll free up.

[Ulu]

There's one dowel on each side of the bell housing. Grab the bottom and try to rock it slightly out, then in, until you see the crack open up between engine and bell housing.

 

Then you can pry them apart gently.

 

Don't scar up the mating surfaces or else you'll be filing off the burrs later.

[_shel_ny]

Will punch easily with a drift.

 

Did not have any corrosion the four I have dealt with.

 

The one in the pic looks nasty as it has been exposed for years.

 

 

Edit:  keep in mind that with all the bolts out the housing will have a tendency to fall when you drive the dowels out

Edited September 18, 2015 by shel_ny

[Ulu]

I've never had to drive the dowels through. I always just rock the bellhousing by hand from top to bottom, and it comes loose

[J.P.G.]

Sweet - thanks again! I've got it all apart and cleaned up now, and the flywheel has been ground smooth. As soon as the clutch parts return in the mail, I'll have the dear old Plymouth out and about again!

[desoto1939]

Sweet - thanks again! I've got it all apart and cleaned up now, and the flywheel has been ground smooth. As soon as the clutch parts return in the mail, I'll have the dear old Plymouth out and about again!

 

 

Did you get my PM about the Pilot removal tool and the tool to install and burnish the pilot bushing?

 

Rich HArtung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[J.P.G.]

I did, so sorry for not responding sooner. Many thanks, but the place I've sent the clutch assembly and disk also rebuilt my throwout bearing and installed a new pilot bushing.

 

I'm trying to put it all back together now, and can't get the flywheel to clear the bolts and bell housing. I'd hate to have to loosen all of the bell housing blots again, is there another way?

[Plymouthy Adams]

J.P.G., on 27 Sept 2015 - 4:10 PM, said:

I did, so sorry for not responding sooner. Many thanks, but the place I've sent the clutch assembly and disk also rebuilt my throwout bearing and installed a new pilot bushing.

 

I'm trying to put it all back together now, and can't get the flywheel to clear the bolts and bell housing. I'd hate to have to loosen all of the bell housing blots again, is there another way?

wow..what was the cost on mailing the crankshaft?