1955 C1B Build Thread

[59bisquik]

Actually, I first took out a few leafs but didn't like the idea of that on 60 year old springs and it was sitting a bit lower on one side.

Then I installed new leaf springs with no leafs removed and did the shackle flip. That was the easiest since I didn't have to cut off the perches and put the axle on top of the springs.

As to flipping the shackle AND moving the axle, it wouldn't work unless you put a notch in the frame. The frame would probably sit on the axle.

 

[lonejacklarry]

1 hour ago, 59bisquik said:

 "Then I installed new leaf springs with no leafs removed and did the shackle flip. That was the easiest since I didn't have to cut off the perches and put the axle on top of the springs."

Did the spring folks you mentioned know what would fit or are they custom made for your application?

"As to flipping the shackle AND moving the axle, it wouldn't work unless you put a notch in the frame. The frame would probably sit on the axle."

I thought about that but figured it might fit with some leaves removed.  But then there is the issue of 60 year old axles.............hmm.

 

 

Edited February 4, 2017 by lonejacklarry

[59bisquik]

I went through McVeigh spring. The springs were for a 54-56 1/2 ton Dodge, so they are vehicle specific, not generic or custom made.

The old axle wasn't a worry. I rebuilt it and it works just fine. I just didn't want to go through the hassle of cutting of perches when I could just flip the shackles.

http://www.mcveighstruckspring.com/

Edited February 4, 2017 by 59bisquik

[lonejacklarry]

Thanks for the information.  You have been helpful.

[59bisquik]

Option A was to clean the engine, prime it with Kerosene and was is out and then try to start it - EPIC FAIL!

I didnt like the condition of the main bearings when I started to drop the caps. Then after deciding that I needed to dig further into the engine after finding the main bearing galleys stopped up with burnt oil and grime. After taking the heads off, I found out why the engine was most likely pulled in the first place... burnt valve!

 

So the day started off with plans of a Kerosene purge and ended up like this...

Plan B will be to take the block down to hot tank and crack check. Looks like a rebuild is in order. Guess we will see once the block is back from the machine shop on how much is needed.

Edited February 4, 2017 by 59bisquik

[RodFru2u]

Good luck, You are going about it right. This way you will know the condition when you install it in your project.

[wayfarer]

Nasty looking valve......  So, time to get out the check book.

Be sure to sonic check the cylinders and only consider the absolute minimum overbore. There is no power or reliability to be gained from big bores. We can make pistons in any diameter and rings sizes are available in a wide array of sizes to match...just no need to hog it out unless there are multiple damaged walls.

When you are ready to dip the block be sure to remove the lifter galley plug located inside next to the distributor drive gear. You will access this through the back of the block.  Call if you have specific questions.

You might consider starting a separate engine rebuild thread for all to follow.

 

Edited February 5, 2017 by wayfarer

[59bisquik]

Thanks Gary! 

That was the plan, try to do very little boring if at all possible. None of the cylinders have a ridge and the bores look pretty good. No scuffing or tell tale issues to the eye. We will see when it hits the machine shop.

As for pistons, if they need replaced, is it worth bumping up the compression? This should be around 8:1 stock if I read correctly.

[59bisquik]

Since my 270 swap is gonna slow down due to the above pics, I figured I would finish some of my other projects since the flathead is gonna be under the hood for a bit longer than originally planned.

New Offy intake is on. Surprise surprise... two of the intake studs go into the water jacket! Next step is to mount up the carbs and figure out the linkage. I also have my spare head that I will mill and put on. Might as well enjoy it until the V8 is ready.

 

[59bisquik]

Finally got around to finishing carb rebuilds and got them installed. She seems to run ok in the driveway. I need to get the linkage made and then I can road test her

Edited February 26, 2017 by 59bisquik

[59bisquik]

Next step... new "old bulls eye" headlights.

Step 1: acquire an old set of Auto-Lite Bulls Eye head lights and CAREFULLY remove the lens. They are FRAGILE! Generally the glue is shot and they have turned black. Just use small pliers or diagonal cutters to roll the lip back just a bit. Too much will put pressure on the remaining folder over part and will crack the lens. Take your time and go slow. Once you are all the way around, the lens will be loose and will come right off.

Step 2: Get a set of new H4 conversion headlights with smooth metal reflectors. Avoid the models with clear lenses and patterns on the metal reflector. I am not sure what that would do to the light pattern. The smooth metal reflectors look like the original ones and the pattern should remain similar.

Mark the back of the headlight with an arrow for the top so you can orientate the lens later.

Put in the oven at 400 degrees for 20 minutes to loosen the glue and then remove the lens. I used a kitchen knife and they popped right off with very little effort.

Step 3: Install the old Bulls Eye lens in the new housing and glue. Use a new replaceable H4 6V 55/65W Halogen bulb.

Edited March 12, 2017 by 59bisquik

[ggdad1951]

Awesome!  I have all the parts...just haven't donew it yet!  What glue did you use?  I've got about 4 pairs of lenses ready to go.

[Merle Coggins]

And what's the technique to remove the bullseye lense from the rest of the lamp? 

I have functional bullseyes now, but if one ever fails I'd be tempted to do this upgrade.

[59bisquik]

21 minutes ago, Merle Coggins said:

And what's the technique to remove the bullseye lense from the rest of the lamp? 

I have functional bullseyes now, but if one ever fails I'd be tempted to do this upgrade.

Sorry... I put the whole technique in the tech archive and did a summary here.

Step 1: acquire an old set of Auto-Lite Bulls Eye head lights and CAREFULLY remove the lens. They are FRAGILE! Generally the glue is shot and they have turned black. Just use small pliers or diagonal cutters to roll the lip back just a bit. Too much will put pressure on the remaining folded over part and will crack the lens. Take your time and go slow. Once you are all the way around, the lens will be loose and will come right off.

[59bisquik]

7 hours ago, ggdad1951 said:

Awesome!  I have all the parts...just haven't donew it yet!  What glue did you use?  I've got about 4 pairs of lenses ready to go.

It was Permatex glass and windshield adhesive/sealant.

Edited March 12, 2017 by 59bisquik

[59bisquik]

Finished product....

Even matches the little bullseye in the parking lamp!

 

[Alshere59]

10 hours ago, Merle Coggins said:

And what's the technique to remove the bullseye lense from the rest of the lamp? 

I have functional bullseyes now, but if one ever fails I'd be tempted to do this upgrade.

You might want to consider using electrolysis. Just reverse the leads and it will eat the metal rim away from the glass. I cracked a lense prying it out when I converted mine, but the next one I just lifted the metal off. I just had it deep enough to cover the edge holding the glass.

http://antique-engines.dickerson-design.com/electrol.asp

[ggdad1951]

I used a belt sander and ground the lip off...no prying or cracking!

[59bisquik]

Plan A: Pick up a set of 270 Hemi heads and convert Poly engine to Hemi and continue to build the engine.

Plan B: show up at the Hemi guys shop and add up the cost to finish the 270. End up purchasing a running 315 Hemi and then he threw in a stock 4V manifold and the correct stamped Red Ram valve covers.

 

[59bisquik]

Couple other scores for the new hemi....

Stock 4V Manifold

Red Ram valve covers. Just need to strip and powder coat!

Edited April 3, 2017 by 59bisquik

[59bisquik]

And lastly as eye candy for the bed when she is cruising or at shows... A super cool barn find from my dads place. A 1935 Raleigh bicycle with rod and linkage brakes. She looks pretty good for almost 90 years old and just out of the garage. Gotta get her shined up and in the bed shortly.

 

[Young Ed]

13 minutes ago, 59bisquik said:

Couple other scores for the new hemi....

Stock 4V Manifold

Red Ram valve covers. Just need to strip and powder coat!

 

Why not leave them chromed?

[59bisquik]

The chrome is pealing and they are starting to rust, so that's why I am gonna strip and powder  coat. If they were nicer, I would definitely leave the chrome.

[wayfarer]

Good to hear of your progress!

[59bisquik]

Took her for a spin today with her new cargo... about as much as she will ever carry with the exception of some lawn chairs and an ice chest! After Viva is over, I can start working on the Hemi install. There is so much I didnt know between truck and car setups. I guess you learn something new everyday.