doctor dirt Posted August 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 Thats what he meant the bearing was closed. I don't know what to think about the "weak" tranny comment. He did say he matched up parts to a period correct Jeep 3 spd from Borg Warner. He said the markings on the parts in my tranny were the same as the Jeeps. Honestly men, I've done my damdest to do right by all my cars through the years but I've had some terrible times with my 49D29 and this P22 trying to find knowledgeable mechanics. Heading out now to go get it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 Perhaps more correct would be light duty versus heavy duty. To draw a similar picture, consider the 904 and the 727 auto trans. 904's were used extensively on cars and I think, some trucks. The higher horsepower and heavier loaded cars and trucks got the 727. Perfectly serviceable transmission and not surprisingly, have Jeep markings as well. Borg Warner built transmissions for everyone so some commonality of parts should be expected. Used and driven as intended, it will serve you well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctor dirt Posted August 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 Just returned with a leaking tranny! Took the car over to a friends hoiuse with a lift to make sure the fluid was tranny (I knew it) but to make sure. Its leaking from the front after removing the shield its pretty plain to see. Once again stuck with garbage work. I remember as a kid lining up a mechanic before I bought a 1961 Mercedes 220Sb sedan, my old man told me that mechanics come before the car purchase. Guess I forgot that again!! Waiting for the tranny to call me back..........might be a loooong wait! Doc looking to buy a WORKING non LEAKING tranny........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bighammer48 Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 (edited) When I was a lad of 16, I had a 51 Stude that leaked from the front seal. Twice I pulled it and put a new seal in and it still leaked, although a little less. My Grandpap was a mechanic in the Army after WWI and before WWII. He told me to pull the tranny, remove the seal and polish the shaft with crocus cloth. I did that, replaced the seal and it never leaked again for the 8 more years I drove it. There must have been something on the shaft that, even though it felt smooth, damaged the seal. JS I for got all about that being over 50 years ago until I kept seeing Doc's troubles. Edited August 3, 2015 by bighammer48 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 Once again was there a gasket installed between the transmission and the bell housing and was the transmission over filled? Read this thread that I found while doing a forum search and look at all the pictures. http://p15-d24.com/topic/35322-3-speed-gearbox-leak-at-input-end/?hl=%2Btransmission+%2Bgasket# Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lloyd Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 You might try PM to plyroadking. He is pretty knowledgeable about OD trans. Rebuilt a few and has sold them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctor dirt Posted August 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 (edited) I just got off the phone with the mechanic and I insisted he read the link I sent him that Don suggested. He said he did cover all that was suggested in that link and will pay for a flatbed to take the car back and have he and his dad try to figure things out. This is "Ralphs Transmission Service" in Sarasota Fl. they've been a working transmission outfit for over 35 years. Don he's telling me he didn't over fill it and I know he was in the manual because the manual was creased in the tranny area. Doc thanks Lloyd, I thought of that maybe if the tranny shop remains stumped I can get them to talk to someone from the forum. The shop does have an email & forum styled page set up I think. Edited August 3, 2015 by doctor dirt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 There's a lot of difference in the amount of heat and fluid movement created in a trans run at idle speed and no load versus road travel speeds and loads. If there is a vent on the trans, is it clear? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctor dirt Posted August 4, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2015 Dave I don't know but I will pass it along to the tech. I'm checking my manual and it has no brand or model for the tranny. My understanding is its a Borg Warner M5 ? I'm looking for the fluid amount needed for the tranny also and the correct weight needed. Doc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctor dirt Posted August 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 The car is being picked up at noon today. I found 90W GL 1 for the trans but the tech is telling me that the GL 5 has better properties to consider, at this stage I'm ready to pour some Budweiser in the damn thing! Lets see how long it takes to actually do some work on it! Patience is tried and vanishing just hoping for the resolve. Doc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 when I sent you the PM containing the NAPA part number to get the GL1 I did so because the very manual that is your guide to repair states that GL1 was to be used and not the GL5 that was used even in that day but for the rear axle. There is a need for the two oils and their uses are distinct. Today's oil is commonly GL5 and many say that the newer additives are not harmful to the yellow metal but again, the additives for the sheer protection are not needed in your tranny. GL rating is set by the API and there is truly not a common ALL FOR ONE AND ONE FOR ALL OIL I cannot see any real reason to substitute a product of wrong application when the original GL1 formulation is still easily obtained... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niel Hoback Posted August 5, 2015 Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 Do not use GL5. It will eat pits into the synchronizers and bronze bearings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctor dirt Posted August 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2015 The GL 1 will be used, I was just passing along what the tech offered me. The gal. is sitting on the seat along with every gasket he will need. The tech I refer to is the new owner who took the shop over from his Dad Ralph. The young man grew up in the shop and other than being stumped by this "tractor tranny" I'm sure knows his way around a more complicated piece of equipment. Hoping for the best or I'll ship the damn thing to Plymouthy Adams and he'll get it right for me..................................right? Doc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctor dirt Posted August 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 Car is ready......................NO breather hole...DAVE72dt is the WINNER!!!!!! As the young tech explained he slipped up not starting at the easiest point to trouble shot. Now I need to find a ride to Sarasota on a Friday morning. The owner was complaining about a crummy 125. tow pay on him, imagine the nerve after wasting my time for a 5 weeks going back & forth between the two garages. I will take my time and search out someone who can read and understand the OD info I have and see whats up with it. For starters I'm told the ground from the OD is on the COIL? Thats seems odd if not wrong! Theres no way I believe I'm free and clear until I ride a few hundred miles. May the MoPar Gods ride with me..... Back to the actual topic it seems we've had some success with the rear main seals and my new front seal seemed to be solid. Thank you men, I do appreciate your knowledge and kindness this is the spot for info on the P15 thru D24 on earth! Doc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james curl Posted August 7, 2015 Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 If I rember right the kick down switch grounds the coil for an instant to allow the OD to shift out without being under load. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted August 7, 2015 Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 Did the trans guy find a plugged breather? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctor dirt Posted August 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 (edited) Not plugged, he said there was NO hole no breather no line no hose no nothing! I never heard of that and don't know of any tranny box that doesn't have a breather. I just put about 50 miles on the coupe and took it out of OD on position until I can speak with the fellow from the Sarasota Car Club. The car ran out strong shifted correctly and I smelled no fumes from undrneath. I pulled over after about 25 miles and watched underneath and it remained dry. The last time home it was throwing puddles. I have a house A/C tray under the car on the side of my house and we'll see how dry it is in a few hours! I gave the car to a detailer in town here who does beautifull work when I git the car. After 3 weeks at one garage and 4 weeks at another and another 2 weeks the first go around this coupe is a mess! The interior stinks like the tranny shop and I asked the tranny shop to spray the underneath down (they have two outside lifts one for cleaning the under carraiges) but they didn't do it. Stay dry P22!! Doc. jamescurl...I believe your correct from what I remembered reading the manual. I will verify that shortly. thanks Edited August 7, 2015 by doctor dirt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctor dirt Posted August 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 ...................parked the coupe at 1:30pm and just checked the pan underneath and its DRY! Not a drop...... hallaula not sure of the spelling.. waiting for the temp to kick down to 80d and I'll wash the stinky thing and do a litle spray wax and see if the detailers good work is under there some wheres. Thanks , should I start a new thread for the OD or add on to this one? I jumped from the rear main to the tranny leak on this one. Let me know....thanks boys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bighammer48 Posted August 7, 2015 Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 Update on my rear main seal:I got the top half of the old seal out with some difficulty. The new seal is in and all bolted up to spec. Just have to put the oil pan back on, then we'll see if I did it right! I ended up with a BEST #3675 seal from Andy Bernbaum. $50.50 to my house. OUCH! Couldn't have done this job without all of the help and pictures from you fellow MOPAR guys. Thanks a million. Of note, I sent Bernbaum an email asking why the seal costs so much. It is his number L-156, which in his online catalog is $9.50. He charged me $39.50 plus shipping. Of course, no response from him. Will use Roberts from now on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctor dirt Posted August 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 (edited) Andy is long gone theres a new regime in there now. There is one fellow there who is pretty rude but I just by-pass his butt. I think mine was 32.00 and it came through NAPA. The GL 1 -W90 was at NAPA too. bighammer48 ..............when you gonna fire that D24 up? Edited August 7, 2015 by doctor dirt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted August 7, 2015 Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 Where is the vent? My OD leaks too and it seems to leak after driving and not just while sitting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctor dirt Posted August 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2015 (edited) On mine the tech said he vented it on the top side of the tranny and I think he said he ran it to the bell housing. I'll verify that for you. As far as I know trannys are vented on the top side with a leader hose to expell the heat that develops. Mine was leaking badly as I drove it. I think Don & Plymouthy will jump in, I'm far from a mechanic I'm the guy who drives and breaks them....... Edited August 7, 2015 by doctor dirt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted August 8, 2015 Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 (edited) There is no external vent on the R10 OD. I've never needed one on my OD cars. A drip or two after a week is the way they are... nothing to become alarmed about. Edited August 8, 2015 by Dodgeb4ya 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ194950 Posted August 8, 2015 Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 There is no external vent on the R10 OD. I've never needed one on my OD cars. A drip or two after a week is the way they are... nothing to become alarmed about. Thanks for confirming that there is no vent to atmosphere on the r-10 and many others I suppose. I looked and looked for an air escape vent on the two r-10's I rebuilt several years ago and found none. Do other manual trans vent to the outside? Thanks. DJ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted August 8, 2015 Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 If there is a vent on the trans, is it clear? If there was not a vent, my question would be why is it creating enough heat and expansion to need one when others with similar transmissions do not. Wrong or insufficient lube, worn brgs or brgs set too tight? How hot is the trans case immediately after running compared to one that is not leaking? What is normal trans temp on one of these? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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