central52 Posted May 29, 2015 Report Posted May 29, 2015 On my 47 Dodge, I can't seem to turn the heat off from the dash. The knob won't budge. I assume it goes in and out. Traced the connection to the engine, and saw this unit with the wire going into the back. If I unscrew those gizmos where the wire goes thru, will that free up connection? Ed Quote
Young Ed Posted May 29, 2015 Report Posted May 29, 2015 That will remove the cable but won't turn off your heat. From there you can determine if its the cable or the valve that's stuck. Also where does the extra piece of heater hose go to from the underside? Looks like someone has added some extra plumbing. Quote
greg g Posted May 29, 2015 Report Posted May 29, 2015 push comes to shove. Disconnect the valve, find an appropriately sized bolt, insert it into the engine side hose, clamp it off. Leave it that way till you need heat again. It will at least keep your tooties from toasting till you get it fully fixed. Quote
BobT-47P15 Posted May 29, 2015 Report Posted May 29, 2015 Re the second hose..........does the car have two heater units.....one on the driver's side firewall.............or is there one under the front seat?? A simple manual one connector valve can be found at O'Reilly auto parts pretty cheap. However, that larger one operated by a cable is another story, I would imagine. They do appear on eBay from time to time. Yours may simply be rusted or gunked up due to time and crud. May look like this one??.............. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1946-1947-1948-chrysler-mopar-dodge-desoto-plymouth-water-temp-control-valve-/361288990471?hash=item541e807f07&vxp=mtr Quote
central52 Posted May 30, 2015 Author Report Posted May 30, 2015 (edited) Thanks, guys, for the input. My previous car, a 47 Plymouth, never had this cock-a-manie, heater setup. Here are some more pics. It does have another heater unit on the driver's side. Curious, what is that one hose going into a cylinder down below? The hose then goes into the lower engine block. Ed Edited May 30, 2015 by central52 Quote
DonaldSmith Posted May 30, 2015 Report Posted May 30, 2015 (edited) Each heater has a supply and return hose. One set connects to the valve at the back of the block, and one set connects to the fitting at the front of the block. My car is fancier and neater, with a tube to the front of the block, but same idea. Here's another shot of the heater piping and hoses: (Ed) Edited May 30, 2015 by DonaldSmith Quote
Young Ed Posted May 30, 2015 Report Posted May 30, 2015 Mine started out like Eds but I found the plumbing off a dodge in the junkyard and upgraded mine to the hard pipes. Much better! I suspect most or all of the pipes could be made out of stuff at the hardware store Quote
greg g Posted May 30, 2015 Report Posted May 30, 2015 My experience with those valves old and new is that they are never completely closed. They will continue to flow hot coolant to the cores even closed manually at the valve. Just sayingb that a new valve may not address the problem completely. Quote
Uncle-Pekka Posted May 30, 2015 Report Posted May 30, 2015 There is no way to fix it. The heat is permanently ON. Only one logical solution: Sell it to Finland - cheap. Trust me - Uncle will help you out, Quote
central52 Posted May 31, 2015 Author Report Posted May 31, 2015 good info, guys, I was able to disconnect the wire from the dash. Sprayed w40 oil on valve lever, moved it to the closed position. Going out today to a car show. Let's see what happens. Another question about this Dodge heating and cooling system. I'm looking at the manual explaining the the cowl vent, and the "weather door". What the heck is that? How do I manipulate those doors, just to get outside cool air flowing in? Thanks for bearing with me on all these questions. Ed Quote
Young Ed Posted May 31, 2015 Report Posted May 31, 2015 2 levers. one for the cowel vent and one for the door. Push them both forward for fresh air. Push only the cowel vent lever forward and fresh air will come in and be forced into the heater(s). Quote
central52 Posted June 1, 2015 Author Report Posted June 1, 2015 Well, drove to car show with valve one way, heat. Drove back from show, with valve turned the other way. heat. So, like someone earlier said, it leaks heat, and you just have to live with it. Damn. Ed Quote
Don Coatney Posted June 1, 2015 Report Posted June 1, 2015 Well, drove to car show with valve one way, heat. Drove back from show, with valve turned the other way. heat. So, like someone earlier said, it leaks heat, and you just have to live with it. Damn. Ed Or you could fix it. See posting #4. Quote
central52 Posted June 2, 2015 Author Report Posted June 2, 2015 Yep, a shutoff valve should do it. Now to find one at a reasonable price. Ed Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 2, 2015 Report Posted June 2, 2015 Yep, a shutoff valve should do it. Now to find one at a reasonable price. Ed ALL OTC parts houses should have a paper copy of Four Seasons book.....their computer is cross linked to models on the average and only way they search...you will need to know your NPT size before you go.... Quote
central52 Posted June 2, 2015 Author Report Posted June 2, 2015 Thanks, Plymouth Adams, will look into that. Checked my Andy Bernbaum catalogue, he has one for $32.50. It's only for a single hose. I'd like to get one for two hoses, as my 47 Dodge has two heaters. But, I can live with just one. Ed Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 2, 2015 Report Posted June 2, 2015 I do not think you will find your Dodge head tapped for two individual controllers...a single threaded device with a Y output or a single feeding a Y will more than suffice... Quote
Don Coatney Posted June 2, 2015 Report Posted June 2, 2015 If you don't like the idea of opening the hood to turn the heat on and off you could install dual solenoid valves electrically controlled one for each heater. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted June 2, 2015 Report Posted June 2, 2015 This tool works well to control water flow! 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 2, 2015 Report Posted June 2, 2015 This tool works well to control water flow! the original UNIVERSAL hot water control valve.....even works well on foreign imports.. Quote
central52 Posted June 3, 2015 Author Report Posted June 3, 2015 Hmm. looks interesting that solenoid setup. Will it fit my car? Anyhow, I just came up with the idea of just disconnecting the two upper hoses that goes into the firewall, and connecting them together. If it works, will send pics. Ed Quote
Young Ed Posted June 3, 2015 Report Posted June 3, 2015 Hmm. looks interesting that solenoid setup. Will it fit my car? Anyhow, I just came up with the idea of just disconnecting the two upper hoses that goes into the firewall, and connecting them together. If it works, will send pics. Ed Are those the supply lines or the return lines? I think they should be the returns and I think hooking them together will just cause a leak. The system will still be trying to deliver hot water but it won't have anywhere to go. Quote
46Ply Posted June 3, 2015 Report Posted June 3, 2015 This tool works well to control water flow! Reminds me of a time a few years ago, after I got the Mercedes back from the shop. I found one of these clamped to the windshield washer hose!!! Quote
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