Tatback Posted May 16, 2015 Author Report Posted May 16, 2015 Here are a few photos of how mine is connected. There is also a line from the top of rhe automatic choke to the starter solinoid. carb left front.jpg carb left rear.jpg carb rt front.jpg Hmmm, thank you. I'm going to really have to go look at it. On another note, I'm looking to rewire as I go along. I don't want to have to buy a kit for 1400 when I can do it myself for much less and solder every connection. I found this site.. http://www.magnetoparts.com/wire.htm Are most of the wires under the dash and thought the car 12 gauge or 10 or a mixture of both? Quote
DonaldSmith Posted May 16, 2015 Report Posted May 16, 2015 The wires are various gauges. The postwar wiring diagram does not indicate gauges, but somewhere I have list of wires, gauges and colors. Send me a PM when you're ready. I rewired my car, using modern wire. Then I got some cloth-covered wire from magneto parts for the wiring exposed in the engine compartment. So you could pop* for just enough cloth covered wire for the exposed wiring. The colors of the modern wire corresponded to the original colors, somewhat. No yellow-black, etc. So I judiciously applied magic marker where necessary to keep track of similar wires. *pop. pope, poop and pip are used interchangeably as of late. Quote
Tatback Posted May 16, 2015 Author Report Posted May 16, 2015 I know this may really bother some people but I'm not opposed to just using modern wire. I'm looking to make this car safe first for my family to ride in. Modern wire may not appeal the purists but it won't cost me an arm and a leg to require right now and I won't have to worry about a fire. Many of the wires are exposed and I'm surprised nothing has shorted out or sparked already. Could I just use any modern copper wire? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted May 16, 2015 Report Posted May 16, 2015 (edited) the gauge of the wire depends on the current draw and distance of the run...there are many helpful AWG wiring charts that are expressed in current and voltage applications...if staying 6 volt this will require a heavier wire over that of upgrading to 12 volt....you need to use the correct voltage chart for your wiring upgrade...these charts are easily found on the internet..I have posted links to them here before..it can probably be found using the search feature but I think your search engine on the internet would be quicker... Edited May 16, 2015 by Plymouthy Adams Quote
Don Coatney Posted May 16, 2015 Report Posted May 16, 2015 Wire should be automotive rated. Available at most good auto parts stores. Quote
Tatback Posted May 16, 2015 Author Report Posted May 16, 2015 the gauge of the wire depends on the current draw and distance of the run...there are many helpful AWG wiring charts that are expressed in current and voltage applications...if staying 6 volt this will require a heavier wire over that of upgrading to 12 volt....you need to use the correct voltage chart for your wiring upgrade...these charts are easily found on the internet..I have posted links to them here before..it can probably be found using the search feature but I think your search engine on the internet would be quicker... Thank you, I'll search right now. Wire should be automotive rated. Available at most good auto parts stores. Good to know, I'll start looking. Quote
DJ194950 Posted May 16, 2015 Report Posted May 16, 2015 Thank you, I'll try and get to my parents house to take some pictures before we leave for our cruise. HOA doesn't allow me to work on the car where I live Guess it's time to start looking for a new place to live with a large garage and NO HOA! 2 Quote
Tatback Posted May 16, 2015 Author Report Posted May 16, 2015 I completely agree! A larger house with more bedrooms for more little ones and a larger garage for me! I will also never NEVER deal with an HOA again. 1 Quote
White Spyder Posted May 16, 2015 Report Posted May 16, 2015 For 80 bucks Rhode Island wire will sell your the engine and dash diagrams with the gauges of the wire to meet 6volt specs. Quote
_shel_ny Posted May 17, 2015 Report Posted May 17, 2015 Wiring diagrams should/may be in your manual when you get it. Wiring diagrams with wire gauges are available on this site. 6 volts is 6 volts and the wire gauges will be the same even if the diagram says Plymouth. Resources----- Downloads----- Reference Information Quote
soth122003 Posted May 17, 2015 Report Posted May 17, 2015 Hey Tatback, Welcome to the forum and it's nice to have another Floridian here. Just too bad you live way way down south. Your car looks sweet as can be and I hope most of your work is light cosmetic. You are also right about the room under the hood, it's nice on rainy days just to crawl in with a drop light and tools and do what needs to be done.(LOL) I have a 48 P-15 Special deluxe and have been in the process of a slow restore in the driveway. I use mine for my back and forth to work driver on inclimate weather days. The thing you will find out about these cars is that they are bulletproof, made to last and easy to work on with just a standard set of tools for the most part. Any special tools you need can usually be rented from most auto parts stores. As far as this forum goes, it is one of your greatest resources for information, questions or just humorous "There I was" stories. The people here are great and have been there and done that, so don't hesitate to ask. Joe Quote
Tatback Posted May 17, 2015 Author Report Posted May 17, 2015 For the battery cables I'm going to try a local tractor or welding shop and get some 00 cut to length. shel_ny, I didn't even know about the Resources tab. Since your post I've spent a couple hours there, thank you for that. soth122003, thanks man, I had plans once it got here to repaint it and redo the wheels but when I saw it on the trailer I loved it. Going to stay with that look for now. I figured I should order some things that probably wouldn't be available locally that way they can be on their way while I'm on the cruise. I found Andy Bernbaum auto parts and so far in my cart: cowl vent gasket 1 piece formed Door weather strip 50' Front vent window rubber Rear vent window rubber Brake shoe and lining assembly All the weather stripping is eh around the doors but the windows are horrible. I noticed the site also has window sweeper and window channel in 8'. Would one of each be enough to do the windows or would I have to buy two of each? I don't know if the sweep is only on the outside or inside or both. There are also just plan sweeper and channel and chrome beaded. How would I know which one is on the car? The sweeper if Im looking at the correct part on the car is in rough shape Anything that I'm missing that I should get now from them? I want to make sure the car has no leaks (weather stripping) and all I know is one brake kinda works. No pedal pressure then the front drivers side tire locks up when trying to bring the car to a stop. Its like 10% braking from that wheel then 100% lock. The others I don't know if their bad, need adjusting, or just to be bled. I figured I'd just buy two sets of shoe and lining that way I know their all new and its that much less of a chance I'll have to kiss the windshield. Quote
ssnowden Posted May 17, 2015 Report Posted May 17, 2015 (edited) Guess it's time to start looking for a new place to live with a large garage and NO HOA! That's exactly what I did. We went from an HOA in the suburbs to 5 acres in the country in February. I'm having to totally remodel the house and completely ignore the car for now, but it came with a big work shop near the back of the property. Eventually I'll be able to have some space to work on the P15 once my honey-do list gets down to a manageable size or I just decide I can just live in the shop. Welcome to the Forum and that's a great looking car. I wish mine was that far along. Edited May 17, 2015 by ssnowden 1 Quote
soth122003 Posted May 17, 2015 Report Posted May 17, 2015 Hey Tat, As far as your brakes go, I would do a bleed on them first and then check for leaks. After that, if any leak or stick, I would order the seals for the brake master and wheel cylinders and get a brake hone as well. When you get back from your trip, you can rebuild the ones that are bad and replace all the brake fluid in the system. These old drum brake systems work pretty well. Just make sure you drive defensively. Joe Quote
_shel_ny Posted May 17, 2015 Report Posted May 17, 2015 Until you do the brakes, the parking brake band is around the drive shaft, and if it is working correctly it will hold the car in place on a good grade, and will stop you without locking up like your front wheel is doing. Quote
Tatback Posted May 17, 2015 Author Report Posted May 17, 2015 Thank you for the responses, the parking brake doesn't work that well either lol. I wasn't told that bit of info till I was heading down rear first off of that car hauler. There was a request for more interior pictures, so they're on their way right now Quote
46Ply Posted May 17, 2015 Report Posted May 17, 2015 Yep! Nice old car. Sure hasn't been abused. I'm surprised at the condition of the upholstery for a car that old. It looks good. How about a couple more without the blankets on the seats? Love that old broadcloth wool. Quote
DonaldSmith Posted May 17, 2015 Report Posted May 17, 2015 But the parking brake is no good if one rear wheel is jacked off the ground, and you have the fluid coupling. Just so you know. Quote
Tatback Posted May 17, 2015 Author Report Posted May 17, 2015 Thank you, I'll have to get those pictures once I come back from the cruise. We went to my parents just to drop off the little one for the week. The seats aren't in that bad of shape, just very brittle. The top of the back seats is completely worn through with all the inside coming out. Donald, thank you for that info. If I'm jacking up the car at all the wheels will all be chalked. Actually they are right now just to be safe. Quote
deathbound Posted May 18, 2015 Report Posted May 18, 2015 Hmmm, thank you. I'm going to really have to go look at it. On another note, I'm looking to rewire as I go along. I don't want to have to buy a kit for 1400 when I can do it myself for much less and solder every connection. I found this site.. http://www.magnetoparts.com/wire.htm Are most of the wires under the dash and thought the car 12 gauge or 10 or a mixture of both? If you can cut back some of the wire loom to expose clean, non-faded wire, the following link for a wire code chart may be helpful in determining wire gauge. I believe most of the new cloth covered wire is vinyl covered copper with the braided cloth covering. I know it's more expensive, but sure looks nice when it's exposed. Nice looking car......& F-HOA's. http://oldmopar.com/oldmopar/wirecodes.html Quote
Tatback Posted May 18, 2015 Author Report Posted May 18, 2015 Oh very cool, thank you. I'll print out that link and use that when redoing the wires. They are smaller than I thought they would be. And ROFL about the HOA. Here let me give you a bunch of money each month so you can tell me what I can't do. 1 Quote
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