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Posted

I'm looking for a camshaft for my 1947 Dodge 230 cui. Have been in contact with Edgy speedshop to regrind a cam, but need a good core. Since I live in Europe the best solution for me is to buy a core in the US and ship it to Edgy. Might need a little help here. I'm not shure if there are different design (read about early and late design, but not shure if the 1947 is early and late)?

 

Or if anybody can help me lokate a good camshaft core?

 

Thanx.

 

HellYeah

Posted

Hell.....dunno if this helps but I have both a 46-54 and 57/58 Workshop manuals and the specifications, as for the bearing sizes indicates that the 3&1/4 or 230 engines used the same camshaft, now I don't have any sort of cam degree specs and yes there could have been some variation but as you are getting the cam reground then I wouldn't worry too much so long as you get a cam from a 23" engine, ideally in the best condition.........I had a 230 cube industrial engine that I had an Edgy head, twin Offy intake, split exhaust, etc and sent the industrial cam to the local cam grinders to have a 3/4 race grind, the grinder had no problem grinding it and I didn't expect that there was to be any hiccups............admittedly I ended up selling the uncompleted engine but the purchaser hasn't got back with an issue........      

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  • Like 1
Posted

The difference between the 1941-1948, and the 1949-1952 camshafts seems to be the hub diameter.

 

1"  early, and 1- 1/8" later.

 

The sprocket hub, and thrust plate holes seem to be spaced the same for both.

 

VPW lists:

 

the 2 different camshafts. 

The 2 different camshaft sprocket hubs,

and 1 common thrust plate.

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  • Like 1
Posted

Shel, thanks for the info  pic.........have learnt something today.....is good.......andyd

Posted

How about checking out vintage power wagons parts for a longer duration cam and heavier springs as a kit?

Give them a call and discus with them about is this is what you are looking for?  ;)

 

http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/pdf/parts/01engine.pdf

 

1 stop shopping and 1 shipping charge.

 

DJ

Posted

Earl Egerton says "The cam I would recommend is 260 dur .410" lift.  Its a mild cam but really wakes the engine up" when I asked for recommendation for a engine with 8 to 1 comp head, dual intake and dual exhaust for normal street use. I have now a cam core on it´s way to Edgy for regrinding.

  • Like 1
Posted

Earl Egerton says "The cam I would recommend is 260 dur .410" lift.  Its a mild cam but really wakes the engine up" when I asked for recommendation for a engine with 8 to 1 comp head, dual intake and dual exhaust for normal street use. I have now a cam core on it´s way to Edgy for regrinding.

Same regrind I have in my engine and I am very happy with the performance.

 

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  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Anyone knowing some date for the cam vintage power wagons is offering?

 

 

Answer from VPW:

"Our performance cam has an increased duration but we do not alter the lift and it works well with the dual intake carburetors.  The cam spec information is provided with the cam and we otherwise do not provide that information."

Answer from VPW compare to the 260 dur / 410 lift:

"Our duration is a little less but close and the lift is less.  So many of the old engine heads have been milled several times and so you need to be careful with valve lift."

Posted

Answer from VPW:

"Our performance cam has an increased duration but we do not alter the lift and it works well with the dual intake carburetors.  The cam spec information is provided with the cam and we otherwise do not provide that information."

Answer from VPW compare to the 260 dur / 410 lift:

"Our duration is a little less but close and the lift is less.  So many of the old engine heads have been milled several times and so you need to be careful with valve lift."

So they want to sell you something but they will not tell you what it is? Reason enough for me to look elsewhere.

Posted

Agree with Don. I am not a big fan of keeping secrets and cam profile details haven't been very secret since Isky started messing with them.... ;)

Posted (edited)

I have v-blocked a number of performance cams that have been removed and grinders tag NLA to read.  It is not that difficult with v-blocks, timing wheel and dial indicator..I will admit to not ever reading a stock flathead profile..do not make the mistake of reading only a single lobe as in some cases exhaust profile is different in cams in general...most stock cams are straight grind....and as such will only vary a degree or so in their profile...any substantial change in reading lobe to lobe will raise a red flag for unusual wear and warrant change.  I have seen hand ground cams from so-called top line grinders be as much as .030 off lobe to lobe in lift only...this greatly will change the other characteristics of the cam in duration and ramp profile and manner in which the valve will open and shut....while a quick test using a vernier caliper may show consistency in heel to toe and side lobes in general,  if found inconsistent..do the v-block for sure..

 

if I were to guess would say between the 220 and 230 duration..again only a guess based on other stock cams of slightly later years and applications

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
Posted

The only difference in terms of regrinding a cam is picking a profile that is specific for a "valve-in-block" arrangement.

OHV profiles are different.

One of these days I'll run a L6 cam through our CamDoctor and see what is there.

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