ACJCF2
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Everything posted by ACJCF2
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2000 Jeep Cherokee and master on my 1949 Coronet. Got the pedal out of a 1996 automatic Cherokee.
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No restrictions with Grundy Worldwide. Reasonable too.
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I am using a booster and master cylinder from a 1997 Cherokee.
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I just started cleaning mine. I purchased the three step system from Bill Hirsch, marine clean, metal tech and sealer. I went one step further, I poured a half gallon of Simple Green in the tank and agitated it and drained it. Then I put the marine clean and another slosh followed with a pressure wash. That got a good amount of trash out. I'm now on the metal tech step and I may have to re-tech before treating. Hirsch has good products.
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I placed a post with pictures on the technical archives regarding the use of a power brake booster/master cylinder assembly, brake pedal assembly and gas pedal in my 1949 Dodge Coronet. In an effort not to abuse the pixel restrictions, I direct interested persons to the archive section. I got the Booster/MC from a 1995 Cherokee Sport and the automatic brake pedal assembly and gas pedal and cable assemblies from a 2001 Cherokee. These items should work well with the Cherokee rear end swap and Scarebird disc brake upgrade. I hope folks find this post helpful. Your posts have helped me.
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This is a booster and master cylinder from a 1995 Jeep Cherokee Sport I've kicked up for my '49 Coronet build. I also harvested the brake pedal and bracket and the gas pedal and cable. My study of many of the member builds helped me with my day at the pick your parts lot. Thanks!
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Beckman Mellowtones. Glass or steel packed.
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I have kit on order for my 49 Coronet. They have been very good to work with answering my questions prior to ordering.
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Your tailgating story reminded me of the three crowding me driving around Jacksonville, FL, heading to the Daytona Turkey Run. I had a 54 Ford 6 cylinder ? (original) and was minding business running 55. I get nervous when I can't see your headlights so I abruptly let off the pedal and a big cloud ☁ of blue smoke erupts. Man you have seen those jokers nose dive. End of problem. ? That old 223 only smoked on deceleration.
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Mine 49 Dodge is 12 volt conversion and one day I thought was troubleshooting what I thought were headlight circuit breakers. Turns out (after some research) they were for the Gyromatic. It got hung up and wouldn't shift. I disconnected the battery and reconnected it and it reset and shifted fine.
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Well pardon me Frank.
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Have to sell Cambridge, but how much should I ask?
ACJCF2 replied to Jason @ Crazy 8's topic in P15-D24 Forum
Start at $5,000 and work from there. Have a bottom line figure you won't go below. -
It can be done but you will have measure and notch the fire wall as the \6 is a good deal longer than the flathead. The radiator will have to move forward some as well. Engine mounts will have to be fabricated and you will have to be mindful of the oil pan fitment around the steering linkage. You'll have to consider transmission mounts. You have you work cut out for you. Another member is install a 4.0L Jeep I-6 and ATO in a 49 or 50 Dodge if I recall. Share pictures!
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I'm going with the Wilcap adapter and starter.
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My 1949 Coronet was converted to 12 volts with alternator when I purchased it and the Gyromatic worked fine once I returned the idle speed to a correct 475 r.p.m. A new 12 volt battery livened the shifts up as well. I found no evidence of any Runtz or other step down aids within the system. I'm going a different route and pulling the Gyro and adapting a 200R4 transmission.
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I obviously haven't been on the forum in quite a while. I am shocked and saddened at the news of Don' s passing back in December. We privately messaged a few times. Always instructive and kind. Condolences to the family.
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Wishing all the MOPAR overheads a Happy and safe Thanksgiving!!! ??
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Ditto on the Cherokee (XJ) 8.25" Chrysler rear. While a bit pricey, Butch's Kool Stuff has a rear end mount kit .
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Yep, no damage, minimal yard debris.
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Thank you Dodgeb4ya, for the picture in #2. I have the same "Directional Signal Switch" on my '49 D30. I figured there had to be a spring or something for the two top forked arms to function with. My switch will not self cancel. Now, to find a suitable spring.
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If your local gas station offers it, use ethanol free marine gas. A bit more expensive but without the problem of ethanol.
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If you use the search feature, there are photos of one installed. You have to fabricate tabs on the lower control arm.
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Thank you casper 50 (fellow Devil Dog), I was thinking I may have to resort to making my own.
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I am in search of a source for the parking light assemblies on the front of my D-30. These would be the gasket between the body and light fixture. So far Steele Rubber, Metro Molded, and the other popular parts providers have yielded nothing. Any suggestions? PM me if needed. Thanks!
