lippy Posted September 12, 2014 Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 I am a newby with this forum Re-doing a 49 Wayfarer 230 flat 6 Want to install an auto trans , update the front suspension & rear end Dual carbs & headers are also on the wish list Any input would be appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted September 12, 2014 Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 Lots of information out there. Do your homework and report your findings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lippy Posted September 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 Thanks for the help & warm welcome to the forum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ledfootslim Posted September 12, 2014 Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 (edited) Well, headers and dual carb manifolds are not the easiest parts to come by, but they pop up on E-Bay occasionally. Here is a pretty decently priced two one-barrel manifold. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Offy-Offenhauser-38-56-Dodge-37-56-Plymouth-230-218-two-dual-carb-intake-/151393865475?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accesso This guy in Florida does some cool hop-up parts and brake kits, but I haven't done any business with him. http://rustyhope.com/site/ Good luck with the build! Edited September 12, 2014 by ledfootslim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ledfootslim Posted September 12, 2014 Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 And if you would consider dual exhaust rather than headers, it is simple to do it yourself. I just used a two inch whole saw on my original manifold, had my machinist weld a neck on, and voile! Works flawlessly, sounds great and cost me thirty bucks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vht Posted September 12, 2014 Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 I got a 51 I'm doing. Didn't know a thing about them, I was more a 60's and 70's guy. Got on here and have had a lot of help and info. They even answer stupid questions to. Good luck. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reg Evans Posted September 13, 2014 Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 Welcome to the forum ! Google Langdon Stovebolt for exhaust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lloyd Posted September 13, 2014 Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 Welcome to the forum! I have a 39 Plymouth and am installing an R7 with overdrive. Swapping the engine over to a 218 with 230 crank and with Dons help I found out the back flange on the crank was not the same as the original crank. Required some mods to the flywheel and bell housing. Got that done and now I'm into a total brake rebuild, replaced all brake lines, got new wheel cylinders, master cylinder and pads and found out I needed a hub puller to get the brake hubs off, then found out these brakes aint like the newer ones with a star adjust from the back. Need a tool for that as well. Then I got a re-wire to do because the wires are in pretty bad shape. The insulation will crack if you bend it on most. All this after I managed to get a set of headlight and taillight buckets and complete assemblies, trunk lid and a fender and started putting together some front suspension parts. Decided to put off the R7 because it would require some drive shaft and linkage mods - be a project in itself, so I'm going to put the original trans back. Then after I get it going later on take another look at the trans swap. Sounds like you are looking to do a major tear down and rebuild, I decided to let my trans swap wait so I could get driving and take care of any other issues that may come up. Did they have an automatic transmission in 1949? What are the options? Heres a link to some pretty nice headers: http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/store/#!/~/category/id=412417&offset=0&sort=normal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lippy Posted September 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 Thanks guys, I,m taking the 230 to the machine shop Monday Reg, thanks for the Stovebolt link Lloyd , Wilcap makes adapters for 350 auto & T5 manual trans Planning on ordering an adapter for the 350 auto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted September 13, 2014 Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 Suggest you go to the resources section found in the above toolbar. Read everything, but specifically go to tech tips and read the section marked "installing valve guides" so you can instruct the machine on the correct way to install the valve guides. You will not find this information in any books. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 13, 2014 Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 the procedure for the installation of the valve guides is clearly written in the Plymouth service manual page 149...with detail info on the undersize bore and what diameter to ream these for proper fit...no shop should be allowed to touch these engines without the service manual at hand... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted September 13, 2014 Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 If you are really up to the challenge of swapping to an automatic you have a couple of choices, but, the install is NOT an afternoon project. Some of the pitfalls are listed on my web pages. In addition to the 904/500 TF, you could use a 50's PowerFlite and not spend a dime on adapters. In fact you might even find a complete engine-trans package in serviceable condition. The L6 was used in passenger cars until 1960 when the /6 appeared. As Don suggested, there is a ton of info if/when you have time to 'data-mine' this sight. Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1941Rick Posted September 13, 2014 Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 Langdons for twin carb manifold and reds headers for headers..they are not hard to find. Do your research swapping for an automatic, might not be happy with it. R10Overdrive is an easy swap. Just remember you are starting with about 100 HP. Not much room to gain gobbs of power. 10% of 100 is 10, 10% of 300 is 30. as you can see there is no big jump from 100HP. These engines have tons of torque and that is what makes them shine. Good Luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted September 13, 2014 Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 while the flathead was respectable in terms of torque its true success was the availability of this torque at low RPM..compared to the successor the slant 6 the same torque was about the same with the 225 version but at double the RPM...I have never seen a full scale HP/Torque curve of the flathead 6..while the torque does come on in low rpm (1200) ..the HP does not peak till 3600...the torque will allow you to get this car moving and was very adequate to drive the car unweighted at speed for the era it was built..loaded as with any car any period, the ability to pull away loaded and maintain speed with load will shift upward in the RPM range where HP will take care of the added need of power but at a cost of fuel and accelerated engine wear and in most cases making nervous ninnies out of 90% of the owners....(feet per sec at x rpm) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lippy Posted September 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 Suggest you go to the resources section found in the above toolbar. Read everything, but specifically go to tech tips and read the section marked "installing valve guides" so you can instruct the machine on the correct way to install the valve guides. You will not find this information in any books. Thank You Don I will talk to the machine shop regarding installing the valve guides The shop is Opel Engineering in Streamwood, Ill So glad I found you guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lippy Posted September 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 If you are really up to the challenge of swapping to an automatic you have a couple of choices, but, the install is NOT an afternoon project. Some of the pitfalls are listed on my web pages. In addition to the 904/500 TF, you could use a 50's PowerFlite and not spend a dime on adapters. In fact you might even find a complete engine-trans package in serviceable condition. The L6 was used in passenger cars until 1960 when the /6 appeared. As Don suggested, there is a ton of info if/when you have time to 'data-mine' this sight. Gary Thank you Gary Time to do some research Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greg g Posted September 15, 2014 Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 If you go to a different transmission, what are your plans for a parking brake? Don't know about your state, but mine requires one on a road liscenced vehicle. If you look you will see your car has its e brake on the transmission. A trans swap will need a rear end swap unless you are just going to rely on the auto's park prawl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lippy Posted September 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2014 I'm in Illinois, Something else to figure out I prefer an e brake on any car Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lippy Posted September 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 I took the 230 apart. The engine has been rebuilt back in the day, probably a Sears or Jasper, seeing this is a 49 Dodge & it has a 52 Dodge engine in it. The clearances on the main & rod bearings are all .002 or less, good news Bad news: 2 exhaust valves are cracked & 3 top piston rings are shattered with one piston damaged The engine was bored .060 over with a minimum of ridge at the top & bottom That's the Wayfarer awaiting it's verdict on the lift Any advice ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Young Ed Posted September 21, 2014 Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 Measure the bores and if they check out ok get pistons and rings. Fix the valves. Vroom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted September 21, 2014 Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 Piston damage due to ring breakage is typical on high mileage engines. Suggest you replace all pistons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry Roberts Posted September 21, 2014 Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 The bores can be sleeved back to the original size if necessary . $$$ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fstfish66 Posted September 26, 2014 Report Share Posted September 26, 2014 Thank You Don I will talk to the machine shop regarding installing the valve guides The shop is Opel Engineering in Streamwood, Ill So glad I found you guys opel engineering is still around huh,,, i think they were tied in to the napa store ?? been a while i dont live there any longer,,almost wish i did,,, good luck congrats on the car,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
juspasinthru Posted September 30, 2014 Report Share Posted September 30, 2014 Keep your factory trans and change your rearend to a late 60's Dodge truck many different rearend gear choices. This will allow you a better cruising speed at lower rpms and still keep it all Mopar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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