Combined thread: fluid drive repair and swap of semi-automatic to standard transmission

[Bobandy]

I'm looking for a transmission warehouse in one of the western states.   I'm hoping to find some parts for my 52 Dodge Coronet.  I'm looking into changing out the GyroMatic to a Standard 3 spd.  Can someone direct me to this particular warehouse.  Haven't been able to find it, but know it exists...
Thanks, Bobandy

[bbbbbb99]

I'm looking for a transmission warehouse in one of the western states.   I'm hoping to find some parts for my 52 Dodge Coronet.  I'm looking into changing out the GyroMatic to a Standard 3 spd.  Can someone direct me to this particular warehouse.  Haven't been able to find it, but know it exists...

Thanks, Bobandy

 I have one out of a 53 Plymouth that I'm pretty sure works fine. I just shipped a front axle for $30some odd bucks FedEx so shipping may be fairly cheap.

[_shel_ny]

Try a google for:

 

Idaho Transmission Warehouse

 

or

 

Western Transmission  ( the one near Idaho Transmission Warehouse)

Edited September 5, 2014 by shel_ny

[greg g]

Plymouth transmissions need to have the input start changed to the longer one from a dodge.

[Don Coatney]

I'm looking for a transmission warehouse in one of the western states.   I'm hoping to find some parts for my 52 Dodge Coronet.  I'm looking into changing out the GyroMatic to a Standard 3 spd.  Can someone direct me to this particular warehouse.  Haven't been able to find it, but know it exists...

Thanks, Bobandy

Your question is somewhat unclear. Are you looking to eliminate the fluid coupling or just swap to a standard 3 speed and maintain the fluid coupling?

[meadowbrook]

I have one out of my 1950 Meadowbrook.

 

I took it apart though, to see what it was like. I still have the parts. It has about 70,000 miles on it and worked fine when I pulled it to fit in an OD unit.

[Bobandy]

I have one out of my 1950 Meadowbrook.

 

I took it apart though, to see what it was like. I still have the parts. It has about 70,000 miles on it and worked fine when I pulled it to fit in an OD unit.

Does it have the long input shaft that would work with the Fluid Drive unit.  My plan is to just replace the Gyromatic with a 3 spd but it still needs to reach the Fluid Drive unit.  The input shaft is about 11.5 inches from the face of the gyromatic tranny.  I'm looking at a 52 plymouth on Friday but I know I'll have to do the input shaft switch..  How much do you want for your all apart tranny... of course the real question for me is would I be able to put it all back together again.

[Bobandy]

Your question is somewhat unclear. Are you looking to eliminate the fluid coupling or just swap to a standard 3 speed and maintain the fluid coupling?

Thanks Don,  My intent is to maintain the Fluid Drive unit...  I did find the warehouse but they couldn't help.  Looking at a Ply tranny on Friday local to me...  I still need the central e brake and the longer (11.5 inches) input shaft...

[meadowbrook]

Hi. My Meadowbrook has fluid drive, so the input shaft is the longer one. Where do you live? It is a heavy item. As far as price, would $50 be too much?

[Bobandy]

I'm looking for a source for the best match fluid replacement for the original Mopar fluid for the old Fluid drive units.  I thought I had seen a tech document somewhere recently that discussed this in great detail.  I don't know if it was here (in a message maybe) or somewhere else.  Any help will be greatly appreciated.  Thanks,  Bobandy

[Dodgeb4ya]

Gyromatic M6 bell housing bolt pattern and the bearing retainer hole size is different than the std 3 speed transmission.

[Don Coatney]

What is the problem with your original transmission? Why do you want to replace it?

[_shel_ny]

try a search using:

 

ISO32

Edited September 10, 2014 by shel_ny

[_shel_ny]

Or:

 

scroll down when you get there

 

http://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/tech/tech_tips.html

[Young Ed]

Gyromatic M6 bell housing bolt pattern and the bearing retainer hole size is different than the std 3 speed transmission.

Dad and I replaced a gyro with an overdrive in a 51 dodge and its been a long time but I don't believe we did anything with the bellhousing. I know we had to do the input of the trans and the driveshaft didn't require anything.

[Bobandy]

Hi. My Meadowbrook has fluid drive, so the input shaft is the longer one. Where do you live? It is a heavy item. As far as price, would $50 be too much?

Hi Meadowbrook,  $50 is a good price, but does it have the Central E brake on the back end.  I live in Missouri, zip 63021  What's your zip code... 

[Bobandy]

Hi Meadowbrook,  $50 is a good price, but does it have the Central E brake on the back end.  I live in Missouri, zip 63021  What's your zip code... 

 

What is the problem with your original transmission? Why do you want to replace it?  Answer:  It's a sick Gyromatic... Does go into reverse properly and doesn't shift between low / second and third to fourth...  Carb has be changed by a previous owner and now has no kick down functions.  Besides I prefer the 3 spd manual... what I had as a teenager...  LOL.  Trying to regain some of my youth.

[_shel_ny]

Shift rods will be different EDIT: with the transmission swap

Edited September 11, 2014 by shel_ny

[TodFitch]

Hi Meadowbrook,  $50 is a good price, but does it have the Central E brake on the back end.  I live in Missouri, zip 63021  What's your zip code... 

Purchase and sale negotiations should be off line using the PM facility...

[Bobandy]

Purchase and sale negotiations should be off line using the PM facility...

 

Purchase and sale negotiations should be off line using the PM facility...

So sorry... I've tried to use the PM but it didn't seem to work.  Probably me.  Regardless, won't make that mistake again.   Bobandy

[Bobandy]

According to my Dodge manual, there are two types of seals for the Fluid drive units.  One is a Bellows type and the other is the so called "New Type".   If I'm understanding the manual correctly, you should use the Bellows type if you are changing it in the field (like my 2 car garage).  I've only been able to find the New Type which is very expensive to say the least.   Anyone know where to find the Bellows type seals?  Next question...  where can you find the Miller tools required to do this job.  I would really love to do this job myself if I can find the Bellows type seal and the tools...  Any help is welcome.

[desoto1939]

if you know the tool numbers ( Miller Tools) will be referenced in your Service manual. Then do a search on the Bay.  This is how I found my miller tools for my 39 Desoto. Since I do not have Fluid Drive I do not have these tools,  sorry that I can not help you.

 

Rich HArtung

desoto1939@aol.com

[Dodgeb4ya]

If your dodge is a 52 you probably have the later style seal. Why are you wanting to change it?

 

The couplings up to early 1950 used a bellows type seal assembly and late 1950 on used the housing type seal assembly. Several parts make up each style and can only be used on a FD coupling as a complete assembly.

 

You do need the Miller tools to do these repairs . Special wrenches and spanners plus the seal tool kit is required to do this job properly.

You will not easily find all these tools.

There is also a Miller tool set for removal/install of the graphite ring tool set I did not show thats needed too.

The graphite ring is usually the cause of the leak but the surfaces it seats on can be damaged too. You won't know till you open it up.

These two surfaces must be in perfect mirror condition to be able to just replace the graphite ring.

Bob

Edited September 18, 2014 by Dodgeb4ya

[Bobandy]

Hi Bob,  I've had the car about 1 1/2 months now.   I noticed right away that something wasn't right.  Didn't want to go into reverse at all, etc.  I didn't want the Gyromatic anyway, so I removed it.   I determined that something was leaking... clutch disc was stuck to the Drive Plate, gyro won't go into reverse (even out of car)...   I drained the FD coupling and discovered that it only had 1 1/2 gals of fluid.  Should be about 2 gals I understand...  I have plans to check an available 3 spd manual transmission (Gyro replacement) this weekend (to make sure it will work).  I've already had the clutch disc and pressure plate rebuilt locally.  Since I don't know just how bad the leak is, I'm about ready to just fill it (the coupling) up and put everything back together and observe what happens.  If it's not too bad, I may just replace the clutch disc if it gets wet and sticks again.  Clutch disc rebuilding is very reasonable compared to having someone re-seal the Fluid Drive coupling.  Even buying the seal kit is overly expensive.  Based on the cost of the seal kit,  I will not be re-building it myself.  Made that decision after discovering how costly the seal kit is.   Thanks for your response.  The more I read the more I learn....  Bobandy (Bob)

[Dodgeb4ya]

Was the clutch disc soaked with a sticky film of oil or just dark brown rust lines?