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Posted

You play tough!

Posted

I went as far as to grab a 5/8" wrench searching for anything one could bust anywhere near the head on my engine and found nothing that uses a 5/8" socket. I re-read the procedure for doing a compression test and struck out again. 

 

I think you broke your finger and used the socket as a splint.

Posted

I went as far as to grab a 5/8" wrench searching for anything one could bust...

Funny you should say that, Don.

 

I am thinking you might be one guy who encountered this particular 5/8" size recently.

Posted

Generator bracket bolts are 5/8 but I cannot imagine anything there breaking while doing a compression check.

 

You most likely run a wide fan belt but I don't see how that tool could assist in belt replacement.

Posted (edited)

may have been used to feed new plug wire boots on or feed wires into a wire loom.

Edited by Dave72dt
Posted

may have been used to feed new plug wire boots on or feed wires into a wire loom.

That makes sense but it is electrical and what could have broken when doing a compression check?

 

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Posted (edited)

heater shutoff valve?

Edited by Dave72dt
Posted

Tightening the starter bolt close to the block?

 

DJ

Posted

So I always understood that the throttle and choke ought to be fully open in order to do an accurate compression test. A few minutes ago I went looking for that page Don Coatney pastes every now and again about C T procedure and wouldn't you know it says as long as all the spark plugs are out it doesn't matter about the throttle. 

 

The beauty of the Internet, however, is that one can always find some website that agrees with one's particular truth — hence Exhibit One below that states the choke and throttle are to be blocked open.

 

I must have mis-installed the throttle cable after replacing the head gasket because, upon pushing in the throttle knob the linkage hit its stop while the knob was still out from the dash. I kept on pushing and the throttle cable sheath pulled out from the crimped tube behind the dash.

 

In order to repair the cable assembly we needed to get the throttle cable on the bench. Every 5/8" wrench I had would not work in that tight spot behind the dash/beside the lightswitch/above the dash curl/beneath the instrument cluster. All the while of course with my head between the pedals and my feet over the seat. The slit 5/8" socket took a 3/4" open end wrench on the opposite end flats and worked perfectly out and in.

 

Once the cable was on the bench, several tight wraps of 0.030 stainless steel safety wire compressed and secured the outer tube to the sheath nicely (also cleaned and lubricated the cable so it glides smoothly in and out).

 

I mentioned this morning that Don might have encountered this 5/8" fastener recently — based on a recent post by pflaming which advised Don to remove the dashboard to help his re-wiring job go easier.

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Posted

I've heard that about the throttle and choke plates before too. I think the important part of doing it, which ever camp you're in, is doing all the cylinders the same way so your test procedure is consistent.

Don probably has a special wrench for that or he took the cables out with the dash. No one won that puzzler but you found a solution to a problem that if anyone remembers later on , can use too.

Posted

When I switched mine I had the dash out also. I have been thinking of doing a socket like that too however couldn't you just undo the cable and feed it back into the car and slide the intact socket over its length?

Posted

...couldn't you just undo the cable and feed it back into the car and slide the intact socket over its length?

Hmmmm... where were you on Monday??

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