Flooding?

[jdrader2]

Hi all,

Been a while since I posted. I have a 1950 Dodge Woodie (B-2-B 108). Just had a bunch of work done to get it going for summer but it’s not running well. I added a new carter carb that I think was meant for this year/engine. The one on the truck was a combo of many different carbs. Other stuff done; new vacuum advance assembly, compression test, new fuel lines, spark plugs and wires, distributor (cap, plate, points, rotor). Even with all that, it not running right. Almost like it’s flooding. Lots of gas in the carb but puttering out. I took the top of the carb off and the float is working although I have no idea how to set it correctly but I did try to adjust it down. Needle/seat is working right as well. Just seems like a ton of gas sitting in the bottom of the carb and actually seeps out of the lower gasket sometimes.

Not really sure where to go from here so I’d love any thoughts you guys have on the steps. I’m not really an engine guy but I have a mechanic buddy coming tonight to help me out.

Hopefully that’s enough info to get started.

Thanks all - Jeremy

[NiftyFifty]

You shouldn't be able to have gas leak between the car and gasket, so that's an issue there, but #1, do you know if you have the right main jet in the carb? Maybe its too large and pouring in more then the truck can take? Does it clean up at all at a higher rpm? If it doesn't then I'd suspect it as one issue.

[Young Ed]

Hi all,

Been a while since I posted. I have a 1950 Dodge Woodie (B-2-B 108). Just had a bunch of work done to get it going for summer but it’s not running well. I added a new carter carb that I think was meant for this year/engine. The one on the truck was a combo of many different carbs. Other stuff done; new vacuum advance assembly, compression test, new fuel lines, spark plugs and wires, distributor (cap, plate, points, rotor). Even with all that, it not running right. Almost like it’s flooding. Lots of gas in the carb but puttering out. I took the top of the carb off and the float is working although I have no idea how to set it correctly but I did try to adjust it down. Needle/seat is working right as well. Just seems like a ton of gas sitting in the bottom of the carb and actually seeps out of the lower gasket sometimes.

Not really sure where to go from here so I’d love any thoughts you guys have on the steps. I’m not really an engine guy but I have a mechanic buddy coming tonight to help me out.

Hopefully that’s enough info to get started.

Thanks all - Jeremy

 

You need to put a straight edge across the float chamber and then measure down to the top of the float WHILE holding it tight against the needle valve. If you just did a rebuilt the kit should have a cardboard tool that sorta looks like a section of railroad tracks. The track piece goes on the bowl and the two crossties go against the float to measure.

[Jeff Balazs]

Another thing you might want to check is to see if you have the correct gasket between the carb base and the manifold. The kits come with 2 different types......and you want the one with the slots which allow the vacuum circuit from the manifold to the step up piston to function.

 

Jeff

[JBNeal]

you can study the manual for a little more info or search the YouTubes 

[jdrader2]

Sorry for the long delay.  I think we're getting closer but still not there.  It turns out that it wasn't flooding, we were just losing spark.  It would run (timing all over the place) and then it was like someone turned off the key.  Then it wouldn't start.  We put a spark tester on and could actually see the spark changing and then just shut off.  Now we're not getting any spark at all.

 

We replaced the coil and tested the points but not we're just not getting spark at all or very very faint. 

 

Can you guys think of steps we should take?  Battery is good (8v).  Coil is new.  Distributor was removed and new bushing put on.  Points are working (we are getting some new ones but they seem ok).  But we're just not getting a spark.

 

Open to suggestions as we're starting to scratch our heads a bit.

Thanks,

Jeremy

[TodFitch]

Is something in the distributor shorting out when the points mounting plate rotates with the vacuum advance?

[desoto1939]

Check the little wires that are on the breaker plate. They could be loose or rubbing and the outside cover could be shorting out the dizzy.  ALso check the condensor it could be bad. Did you put in a NOS braker plate?  The old condessor could be old and still not working correctly. 

 

Just some other thoughts.

 

Rich HArtung

[Dave72dt]

Get the test light out and start tracing your power supplying the ign system.  You'll find something with a poor connection or not working consistently, broken wire, etc.  Where do you have power and where don't you?  What happens when you wiggle the key or the dist shaft?  Have you cleaned all the connections?  It's important to test the system instead of throwing parts at it.  That way, you can find out what the problem actually is.

 

In addition, I noted the 8v battery. Unless you've reset the regulator, it's not going to keep the battery fully charged.  The regulator will be kicking the generator out at the time it should be kicking it in.

[Jeff Balazs]

A lot of motorcycle and small engine shops sell a very useful little tool. It is called a spark condition tester and features an adjustable gap. They are about $10 and worth every penny. You can use one of these to check for spark and to help optimize the spark. With one of these hooked up you can easily check for spark after each correction or repair you make. It is a really simple device with nothing to break or go bad over time. Belongs in every tool box.

 

Also what sort of HT cables do you have? Solid copper core seem to work best.

 

Jeff