Brake lines are frustrating

[Bobacuda]

I have concluded that when it comes to making all new brake lines for my truck, I did a fair job of making a sprinkler system.  And I did learn that I am terrible at bending lines, even though I used a bender that I have seen others make great lines with.  Adding insult to injury I even used the "easily bendable" lines.  I don't even want to talk about my abilities with steel lines. 

 

So, tomorrow I get to figure out how to stop the MC line from leaking at the distribution block and the rear brake line from leaking at the line splice ("It's fool proof.  Anyone can splice a line and not have it leak with one of these.").

 

And to those of you that can bend lines, install them and not have leaks, I tip my hat and admit, "I am not worthy."  But if you ever want a brake line to kink or to weep at a connection, just contact me.   

Edited April 20, 2014 by Bobacuda

[Plymouthy Adams]

are you currently making double flares?..the secret is the chamfer of the tubing prior to the insertion of the button..you can get a double flare kit at most Advance stores on deposit of cash and get your money refunded when you are finished....other than that...practice does improve your skill you should have enough tubing to practice with and get this a bit for uniform in appearance and fucntion

[Bobacuda]

I did make double flares.  Had the lines all nice and clean, followed the directions and the result looked as good as the factory end on a "store bought" bendable line.  I'm thinking that the MC line has "off-centered" stress from trying to make last minute bends to get it to install on the MC and then the distribution block.  I figure I will take it loose tomorrow, line it up better (if it needs it), reinstall and go from there. 

 

I had to make some lines for this truck 30 years ago that worked out fine, so I guess I lost my touch since then.  It is a '53 B4B that I bought in 1975 from estate of the original owner ($100).  The original owner had it 22 years and I have owned it the past 39 years.  Damn, that makes me feel old.

[TrampSteer]

When one gets older like us, we don't bend well anymore. A very fitting statement don't you think?

[ggdad1951]

I'll say it again....cupronickle....you won't be sorry.

[NiftyFifty]

Silly question... Are you making the flares on the bench or under e truck? I've seen guys attach one end and then try doing the job underneath, and its always a mess when you do. Only tips I can give are bends have to be gradual, and its easier to have some excess line to make the bend that way, rather then tight and kinked. Also you gotta make sure your tightening the line in the holder so its not going anywhere, and the flare buttons tight as well.

Its something you have to do a few times to make it right, problem is most guys hardly ever do brake lines so unless your practicing on the bench, its hard to get much experience

[P15-D24]

After fighting with this for years  I finally invested in two tools that make life good: 

Tube Bender:

 

Double flare tool:

 

Aren't cheap but you get the job done right the first time.  

[Bobacuda]

TS, I think you hit the nail on the head.  Bending isn't what it used to be.  The best thing about having the truck completely apart is that it is much easier to access the parts standing by the frame rather than always having to crawl underneath...and I still do a lot of that.  At least it's all clean right now.

 

I made all of my lines "on the bench."  I copied my old lines as best I could and tweaked them as I put them in.  I learned that I am talented enough to kink two or three of the "easy bend" lines to the point they were useless.  I used the loaner flare tool from Autozone and the flares looked as good as the factory end on the lines.  However, there are days when I believe I could screw up a crowbar in a sandbox.  Eventually I was happy enough with the majority of the bending and flaring as I was ever going to be. 

 

The old MC line would not have worked with the new MC because the brass elbow on the bottom of the MC stopped tight in a different location, changing the angle for the rotted, steel line.  Before I knew this, I had already bent a new line to match the old one.  So, I attached my new line to the MC first and I have been carefully tweaking it, but it leaked at the distribution block.  I'm thinking the tweaking may have the line pulling at an angle at the distribution block and it is not seating the double flare properly.  I only hope I haven't screwed the flare or the line up (no to mention the distribution block).  If I have to redo it, it will be my third time making that line.  Once I get that leak fixed, I'll take the splice on the other line apart and redo it.  Oh well, everyone needs a hobby.

Edited April 20, 2014 by Bobacuda

[Don Coatney]

Are you using a good quality tubing cutter to cut the lines? A hacksaw cut will not make good flares. Your tubing cutter should have a triangular shaped de-burring tool attached. Use it.

 

Also never use a wrench to start a threaded fitting. Make sure the threaded fitting is started by hand first. And always use two wrenches to tighten an unsupported splice and use tubing wrenches.

 

[Jeff Balazs]

When one gets older like us, we don't bend well anymore. A very fitting statement don't you think?

Boy is that the truth.

 

Jeff

[Don Coatney]

Where can one buy a new benderover?

[Jeff Balazs]

Where can one buy a new benderover?

Not sure.....but if you find one that works well let me know. That and a "body lifter"....... I can get down on the floor without too much difficulty ( thanks to gravity) but getting back up is another matter altogether.

 

Jeff

[Bobacuda]

Took the MC line off at the distribution block and yep, the installation of the MC had changed the angle of the line quite a bit.  After several tweaks, I got it reinstalled and only use a wrench for the final tightening.  I cranked down on the splice some more and it stopped leaking.  So for now, my sprinkler system is stopped.  I used an air compressor powered bleeder and went though about a quart of brake fluid, but I think there is still air in the system.  I got it as best as I could and I will do an old-fashioned brake bleeding next weekend when I have assistance.

 

So, my next headache is trying to get the "over-ride clutch" off of the armature of my starter.  I got a new one, but I have not been able to figure out how to release the old one, yet.  The Dodge Shop Manual is less than helpful, as was a 1955 Motors Manual.  I guess back then, mechanics were just born with that bit of knowledge.

[MBF]

Jeez, I thought I was the only one with the gettinbakup problem, so I never said anything.  I'm to the point where I can almost fall asleep on my creeper.

[Plymouthy Adams]

_{creeper..he be a Scooby Doo character if I recall...I could never ever get used to working with a creeper..seems every time I needed to torque an item I pushed myself away form the work area..I do have one in the shop...I do not recall every using it...I think it was a gift..cannot remember..}

[Don Coatney]

My creeper went in the dumpster before I moved.

[_shel_ny]

 

  I used an air compressor powered bleeder and went though about a quart of brake fluid, but I think there is still air in the system.  I got it as best as I could and I will do an old-fashioned brake bleeding next weekend when I have assistance.

 

 

 

My assistant was a board. Fit between the seat, and the pedal.Held the pedal down as I bled each wheel cylinder. It was co-operative. Always did what it was told to do within the limited scope of its abilities.

[TodFitch]

. . .  I used an air compressor powered bleeder and went though about a quart of brake fluid, but I think there is still air in the system.  I got it as best as I could and I will do an old-fashioned brake bleeding next weekend when I have assistance. . .

 

Saw a pretty cheap bleeder kit with an air compressor hookup at the store the other day. At first glance I thought it was a pressure bleeder setup but then looking at the pieces and reading the manual (I sometimes take the liberty of opening unsealed boxes) found that it was a vacuum bleeder and simply used compressed air to provide vacuum via the Venturi effect.

 

Is that how yours works?

 

I'd expect that I'd have the same issues with that as the simple hand pump vacuum bleeders.

 

Since my cobbled together pressure bleeder cost about the same as this packaged vacuum bleeder I figured there was no reason to buy it.

[Bobacuda]

TodFitch -

My bleeder is like the one you described, using the compressed air and venturi effect.  It works fine when changing out brake fluid in systems with no air, but I think it is only a "setup" procedure for new brake systems.  It gets fluid to the far reaches of the line, but i think I will still have to go the traditional bleeding route to get all of the air out.

Bob