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The Phoenix is awakening / B3B Rises from the Ashes


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  • 2 weeks later...
On 2/18/2020 at 7:08 PM, pflaming said:

My engine developed a knock. It wasn’t very loud when the engine was cold and driving slow around town. A week ago I put it on the road for a 40 mile round trip. The last 10 miles were very bad, I thought the engine might blow, but if I drove slowly in high not so bad, so drove on home.

 

I bought a stethoscope, a friend listened to it and believes the crankshaft is broken!  Responses welcomed!  

 

So what's the latest on the engine knock?

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That friend was me, and I've changed my mind. I think the #5 cyl has galled  both the rod bearing and the wrist pin, and they are both going, first one then the other, as cyl pressure varies.

 

 

 

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On 2/18/2020 at 8:14 PM, kencombs said:

 . . .  a heavy solid sounding knock when idling.  . . .

 

This was absent, but both a light and heavy knock were noticed, both on pressure and overrun. It idled too smooth to be valvetrain. I wanted to drop the pan while I was at Paul's, but he had other business. My money is on the #5 con rod.

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  • 2 months later...

Update! Yesterday I swapped my 63 VW and parts for an S10 T5 transmission for the truck. A friend gave me a good complete 230 engine to replace my 218. Those two items will significantly improve the performance in power and highway mileage. Will make the swaps when I finish the Sportster. That is nearly done, some electrical and paint the body.

1A66E990-B761-4674-8C3D-2E47AAE557AA.jpeg

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Did, but rattle can paint.   I since have learned how thin that pain can be, so resanded now I’ll go the route, primer, the rustoleum  bright white,.

 Back to the thread. Tonight I bought this cab foe $100. I want the corner windows. Can I cut our the entire rear window panel and swap it into my tripuck? Or just do the corners separately? 

82DACDE2-DBDC-4BB6-BDF2-C821ED4F7BE1.jpeg

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Yes, either can be done but not easily and not recommended.  This is a major body modification that can easily ruin 2, repeat, 2 cabs or 1 truck.  Swapping cabs might be more practical.  Unless you are well experienced in sheet metal welding and weld distortion control, management and repair or have an extra 3 or 4G to spend on having it done, I'd leave it as is.  You'd lose the originality of your truck as well the patina since the cut and weld would show.  Get your engine and trans swap done first, the Empi and the suburban before embarking on this adventure.  It'll give you time to think this over carefully.

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Since I know you personally Paul, I feel it's coming from the heart when I say....leave your truck cab the way iit is. You have a lot invested in that build, in that very cab. It's fine the way it is. If you decide to build a second truck.....make that your starting point. IMHO.

 

48D

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Thanks for the great advise. The seller brought the cab, but the corner glass was gone so I did not buy it. Now will leave it as is.  

 

The upside of today,  the seller was a mechanic and he corrected a wiring issue in my suburban and the engine fired up immediately.  I had the ground from the battery to the bolt on the radiator spout, thus a faulty ground. Now will get it driving nicely, then to CHP for title and license. What remains on that is cosmetic. 

 

AND very close to driver on the Sportster.  I’m downsizing down to my truck, then down size the shop to the walls. 104 today, cooler on Saturday and next week. 

Once again thank you to forum members who guard my back. 

 

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