Manifold Studs/WaterJacket?

[Barry Maxwell]

I recall reading in an old post that 2-3 manifold studs go into the water jacket and should be sealed accordingly. The Shop Manual says nothing about this. Is that, in fact, the case? I would prefer not to remove the manifold that I just installed (with some difficulty) to check it out if I don't have to. Many thanks.

Barry

[John-T-53]

Barry - I never removed my manifold studs but I wouldn't be surprised if they do intrude into the water jacket.

There's also two bolts that go through the exhaust manifold and DO go into the water jacket - I'm 100% certain on this!

[Jeff Balazs]

Barry;

Yes that is true. I used permatex on mine. I used the same treatment on the bolts that hold the water pump in place.Better safe than sorry.

Hope this helps, Jeff

[Dodgeb4ya]

I think they all go into the water jacket. Permatex #2 is a perfect sealant when installing studs or head bolts in our MoPar flatties..

Did you just install these studs and now they are leaking?

Non clogging GM coolant tabs or Subabru cooling system conditioner will seal up these very minor leaks with out plugging heater cores or radiators.

Bob

[ggdad1951]

yes they penetrate the water jack...don't ask me how I know....I little permatex will solve the issue

[Merle Coggins]

Like they say, seal the threads on all manifold studs. Also, several of the front cover and water pump bolts need to be sealed as well as the head bolts. When in doubt, any bolt that screws into the block should have sealant on the threads, especially if it's not a blind hole.

 

Merle

[Barry Maxwell]

Thanks guys, I am glad that I asked before tightening all the nuts. I couldn't remove several of the studs, so I chased the threads and will reuse them. The rest are all new, and I will wrap with several layers of Teflon tape. I finally got my engine back from the engine shop, and it's now primed, painted and mounted on the rolling chassis. I am in the process of mounting everything on the block (gen., starter, water and fuel pumps, etc.) This is the fun stage of the project for me, and I am taking my time and enjoying it. I still have about 30% of color sanding and buffing to go, plus MUCH more before it is anywhere close to being finished. Nevertheless, I am having a ball. Retirement sure is great! Thanks again to all of you.

Barry  

[Merle Coggins]

Not sure how Teflon tape would work in that application. I'd opt for a paste type pipe dope.

[ggdad1951]

I agree

[Barry Maxwell]

Not sure how Teflon tape would work in that application. I'd opt for a paste type pipe dope.

 

 

Merle:

Good point, I will use a Permatex product. BTW, I removed all my new studs and the only ones that go into the water jacket are the two for the long studs. The depth is about 2-1/2". The remaining studs all go about 1" into blind holes. Nevertheless, I will use sealant on all the studs just to be safe. Thanks.

Barry

[Dave72dt]

Use anti-seize on the blind holes.  You'll be able to get them out later a bunch easier and in case the nuts seize to the studs, you won't be as likely to break the studs off.

[Don Coatney]

Loctite 271 works as well as Permatex 51D

 

 

 

 

[ggdad1951]

thing I don't like about the Loctite for this application is that it HARDENS and you use heat to SOFTEN it....

[DJ194950]

I agree

 

Times 3

 

Doug

[Dodgeb4ya]

I believe all the studs/bolts go through into the water jacket except for the lowest middle stud.The one hidden under the intake.

Bob

[Jeff Balazs]

That Loctite #271 does not require heat to remove. It is decent stuff......and there are other products out there that will do a good job too. There are some very fine marine products that I believe are even better in this sort of service......Quicksilver Marine Perfect Seal would be my first choice. I have seen it seal and hold some very heavily corroded boat engines together.

Jeff

[Don Coatney]

I did a bit more research and I am now confused. Per the Loctite web page linked below the 271 does require heat to remove. But I have two bottles and nowhere on the bottle does it say non service removable nor heat required to remove. It has been a while sense I installed the manifold studs in my engine but I do believe I used the 271 when I installed them.

 

I also have a tube of a product called LEAK LOCK and I believe I used it in a few applications when I built my engine. 

 

http://www.highsidechem.com/leaklock.html

 

 

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_red/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Red-271.htm

 

Loctite® Threadlocker Red 271™ is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C).

 

 

As a side note I replaced several of my manifold studs and I bought the new replacements at my local Ace Hardware

 

 

 

[_shel_ny]

Don, turn that engine over. I can never find the 13th nut when using this pic as a reference

 

Although the last one I did I was practically standing on my head under the hood, so perhaps this is a suitable pic

[Don Coatney]

Don, turn that engine over. I can never find the 13th nut when using this pic as a reference

 

Although the last one I did I was practically standing on my head under the hood, so perhaps this is a suitable pic

[HanksB3B]

hope this helps

 

 

now find the missing stud....(Tim you'll need your specs)

 

and now look what I discovered...

 

 

Ever see anything like it ? (It's a hexagon but I won't touch it untill I replace my radiator and waterpump) You can't see it but you can get a few turns with the brass nut on enough so that it's as tight as as all the rest.

 

humm...,

 

Hank...  . 

Edited January 15, 2014 by HanksB3B

[HanksB3B]

I did a bit more research and I am now confused. Per the Loctite web page linked below the 271 does require heat to remove. But I have two bottles and nowhere on the bottle does it say non service removable nor heat required to remove. It has been a while sense I installed the manifold studs in my engine but I do believe I used the 271 when I installed them.

 

I also have a tube of a product called LEAK LOCK and I believe I used it in a few applications when I built my engine. 

 

I guess then, they are there to stay...

 

this has turned out to be a real interesting thread. By the looks of Don's collection of thread sealants and comments by others above,  it makes me realize how little I know about this topic. I know this much from working on bicycles that almost any nut or bolt should at least have a small amount of either grease or anti-sieze or other application correct sealant.

 

Hank 

Edited January 15, 2014 by HanksB3B

[Ronnie]

Hey guys, I am in process of putting Tom Langdon split exhaust on and I have a leak from one of the studs. So after digging around on thr forum this is the closest I could find to thr issue I'm having. The leak is at the nut and I was able to tighten it to where it would stop but I'm wondering if I should take everything off and permatex at the engine block rather than at the nut. 

[Dave72dt]

Yes.  I suspect that the stud came out with the nut originally and you may have reinstalled it without removing the nut from the stud.  Any stud or bolt that goes directly into a water jacket needs a sealer of some type and studs need to be fully seated bef.ore assembly