knuckleharley Posted January 5, 2014 Report Share Posted January 5, 2014 Cutting steel for..... As the others have said,you do some really nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
falconvan Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 This is killer, you do some awesome work, bro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 Did you keep the 4 speed tyranny? If so is it mated to a diff so that low low is now low and thus you have a four speed tyranny? Again if so, then what rear axle ratio do you have? Cool, even for a old geek like me. Sort of reminds me of a 2x4 'cart' we pulled behind our ponies. Had to really plan ahead since it had no brakes! A fresh pony could gallop around 30 mph for a brief time and at 4" above the ground those where great rides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chop Posted January 6, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 It has a 904 auto tranny now and 2.80 gears in the rearend. I'm going to see how it drives then maybe swap them for something in the 3.3 area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 ...Love the exhaust...no doubt the neighbours will too! Lookin' good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martybose Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 I've never been a fan of straight pipes; for this thing I would think something along the lines of these http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Sanderson-Twister-Outside-Chassis-Header-for-Small-Block-Ford.html would be neat. Marty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankieflathead Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 (edited) Do know if the Dodge Brothers ever make a roadster body in the twenties? Sure they did, Ray, and a durned handsome one at that, but I doubt if there are any fiberglass replicas of them out there. This one's from 1920.... Edited January 6, 2014 by frankieflathead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankieflathead Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 A great build and some 1st class fabbing skills there, Chop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankieflathead Posted January 6, 2014 Report Share Posted January 6, 2014 (edited) Do know if the Dodge Brothers ever make a roadster body in the twenties? And a here's a good look at a 1921..... http://www.flickr.com/photos/target_man_2000/5541536558/sizes/l/in/photostream/ Edited January 6, 2014 by frankieflathead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chop Posted January 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2014 I've never been a fan of straight pipes; for this thing I would think something along the lines of these http://www.sandersonheaders.com/Sanderson-Twister-Outside-Chassis-Header-for-Small-Block-Ford.html would be neat. Marty I'm picky about my straight pipes, on a stock motor they usually sound bad but with the cam and compression this motor has it should sound pretty good. You can't beat the tones a hot motor makes with each cylinder firing into it's own exhaust pipe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dodgeum 35 Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 Cool Project.What did you do with the Truck Trany. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldguy48 Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 I'm picky about my straight pipes, on a stock motor they usually sound bad but with the cam and compression this motor has it should sound pretty good. You can't beat the tones a hot motor makes with each cylinder firing into it's own exhaust pipe. I hope you can share an audio clip with us of that engine running. I'd love to hear it "bark". Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumpy Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 Indeed...I too salute you. !!! I think the engine is right as rain in your chassis/car. Beats the heck out of any modern V8 engine, as far as "wow" appeal, class, and cool factor. I'm really glad to see it. ken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsturner Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 Very cool, it's nice to see people using our engines in unconventional ways, and refreshing to see a hot rod with something other than a small block GM in it. Nice fabrication work too. I notice you only have two engine/trans mounts. Most vehicles that I know of have at least three, otherwise the engine/trans is free to rotate around the axis between the mounts. Any plans to add another mount, or are you pretty confident in your current setup? flathead to 904 auto all mounted up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumpy Posted January 26, 2014 Report Share Posted January 26, 2014 I believe his front motor mount will keep that from happening, if it's close, or the same as the stock motor mount used on the flathead six. ?? Now I think a couple of chrome chain torque straps from the motor to the frame would look cool, but that's just me. k. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCurrent Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 Very cool, it's nice to see people using our engines in unconventional ways, and refreshing to see a hot rod with something other than a small block GM in it. Nice fabrication work too. I notice you only have two engine/trans mounts. Most vehicles that I know of have at least three, otherwise the engine/trans is free to rotate around the axis between the mounts. Any plans to add another mount, or are you pretty confident in your current setup? But these are the normal mount points for this particular motor and trans......right? anybody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 But these are the normal mount points for this particular motor and trans......right? anybody At least on my older engine, there are two mounts at the rear. One on either side of the engine/bell housing. When they first came out with "Floating Power" they actually had a small leaf spring at the rear of the engine to take the torque. I guess they later decided the rear rubber mounts were enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jsturner Posted January 27, 2014 Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 I believe his front motor mount will keep that from happening, if it's close, or the same as the stock motor mount used on the flathead six. ?? Now I think a couple of chrome chain torque straps from the motor to the frame would look cool, but that's just me. k. I was thinking about that. The stock front mount is just a block of rubber vulcanized to two steel plates. How much torque would it take to tear that apart? Maybe it's a lot tougher than I think. +1 on the chain torque straps But these are the normal mount points for this particular motor and trans......right? anybody At least on my older engine, there are two mounts at the rear. One on either side of the engine/bell housing. When they first came out with "Floating Power" they actually had a small leaf spring at the rear of the engine to take the torque. I guess they later decided the rear rubber mounts were enough. The front mount is the normal mount point for our flatheads of course, but our engines are meant to be backed up by a transmission with two mounts, one on each side of the bellhousing. Chop's transmission is meant to be behind an engine with two mounts, one on each side of the block. I know a few folks on the forum have later model automatics behind their flatheads; how did they mount them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumpy Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 It would probably be wise to give the engine and trans some additional support, but I'm sure the he has already thought of it. My idea would indeed be torque straps or chrome chains, but there's different ways to do it. After all, there's no doubt in my mind that that car will be seeing some "enthusiastic" driving and leaps off the line, "dropping" of the clutch, and certainly the smell of burning rubber will be known. !!! In that case a little extra insurance holding the engine down will be required. Just a thought. ken Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 Gary, you make these adapters.....what do you recommend for mounts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 " . . . that car will be seeing some "enthusiastic" driving". Lumpy, he's building this to put into his den, it's a trophy piece, that's why the L 6? . . . for show not go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumpy Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 Laughing out loudly! I'm thinking if he is 19 years old, it's going to go as much as show! (or am I incorrect on the age?) Also, in that light of a chassis, that engine is going to have plenty of ooooooomph! ken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wayfarer Posted January 28, 2014 Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 Gary, you make these adapters.....what do you recommend for mounts? Frank, as here, this question arises with every adapter and it would seem that everyone has their own take on what is needed. Some folks get pretty inventive, but the feedback generally supports (pun intended) the idea of using the front and rear mounts with a torque limiting device at the bell, usually on the pass side. Although the distance between the mounts is considerable, I have never heard of any issues with the TF bell. The adapter is steel so that is not a concern. I do recommend using a pair of struts on the lower half of the trans along the lines of the factory pieces that were used on 318-360 powered pickups and vans. It is not generally advisable to install a 3-point mount as something will bind. Years ago, a customer used mounts at the adapter (it is thick enough to attach mounts to) and then made up a trans mount with the trans supported on a pair of valve springs to hold some of the weight but yet allow for substantial movement. Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Elder Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 So like a Heim joint setup from the frame to a long bolt that passes through the block adapter and the tranny ear with room to mount the heim.......would that help with the twist? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCurrent Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 At least on my older engine, there are two mounts at the rear. One on either side of the engine/bell housing. When they first came out with "Floating Power" they actually had a small leaf spring at the rear of the engine to take the torque. I guess they later decided the rear rubber mounts were enough. That's right! I was only thinking of the motor mount and not so much of the trans mount as most of them only mount at the rear. Also the original trans mount would be at the bell housing. I need to keep my comments to myself and think it through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.