wdoland Posted October 20, 2013 Report Posted October 20, 2013 My ammeter has power to and from it but it doesn't work. Need to find a new one. Is there interchangeable ones? My parts book has # 1163 534 and the ones on ebay look the same but the numbers are different. Does anyone know if these other numbers can be used? Thanks 1 Quote
Don Coatney Posted October 20, 2013 Report Posted October 20, 2013 What tests have you done to insure your charging system is working? You can have power on both sides of the ammeter but withiut current flow (charging or discharging) the meter will not show a reading. And ammeters rarely fail. Quote
wdoland Posted October 20, 2013 Author Report Posted October 20, 2013 Well I tried fooling with it and couldn't get it working so I sent it to a shop. This guy use to work at Chrysler years ago so I hope he knows his stuff. He checked it and said it was shot. I just had the generator rebuilt so I had him check the charging system. He said it's working. I pick the car up tomorrow, I'll ask him again about the charging system. Quote
_shel_ny Posted October 20, 2013 Report Posted October 20, 2013 1232795 in my book. Crosses to 1163534. Quote
wdoland Posted October 20, 2013 Author Report Posted October 20, 2013 The 123795 on ebay now has scripts on it, and I need block lettering. Maybe that's the difference between the two numbers. Thanks, shel_ny! Quote
RobertKB Posted October 20, 2013 Report Posted October 20, 2013 The 123795 on ebay now has scripts on it, and I need block lettering. Maybe that's the difference between the two numbers. Thanks, shel_ny! Ammeter is probably the same with a different dial/face. The dial is usually just held on with a couple of very small screws so you could probably change out the dial for the one from your car. Just a thought. Quote
Young Ed Posted October 20, 2013 Report Posted October 20, 2013 Ammeter is probably the same with a different dial/face. The dial is usually just held on with a couple of very small screws so you could probably change out the dial for the one from your car. Just a thought. Agreed. I am running a Chrysler temp gauge in my plymouth after swapping the face over. Quote
wdoland Posted October 20, 2013 Author Report Posted October 20, 2013 Well I just picked up a NOS gauge on ebay for $20.00 plus $5.00 shipping. It said " 1163534 - 1232795 both part numbers apply to this gauge" And it's block letters. I grabbed it because I saw others on there that were over $100. Quote
RobertKB Posted October 20, 2013 Report Posted October 20, 2013 Congrats, let us know how things work out once you receive it. Quote
wdoland Posted October 25, 2013 Author Report Posted October 25, 2013 Got the NOS ammeter tonight. Crawled under the dash to see how easy it will be to replace. I think it would be easier to pull the engine and cut a hole in the firewall to get at that damn gauge! Quote
DJ194950 Posted October 25, 2013 Report Posted October 25, 2013 A couple of old throw couch pillows (if none, your wife won't mind if you borrow them off the couch ) for your head, a magnetically held light, feet over the back cushion of the front seat and a tool person to get the tools you forgot to get within reach. Best of luck, its like a stretching exercize and prep for an space voyage! Too much blood to my Head!! Doug. Quote
Oldguy48 Posted October 25, 2013 Report Posted October 25, 2013 Probably should schedule an appointment with your chiropractor before you get started. Chances are...you'll need it. Wayne Quote
james curl Posted October 25, 2013 Report Posted October 25, 2013 I have a friend that wires cars for people and he has cut a 4' long piece of 3/4" plywood about 18" wide that he can slip on the floor between the seat and the front door post. He has an adjustable set of legs to adjust the plywood level with the car that he lays on while working under the dash, seems to work real good for him. Quote
hendo0601 Posted October 25, 2013 Report Posted October 25, 2013 I have yet to work under the dash of my windsor, but back when I had to do wiring work on my 66 I found it way easier and less of a hassle to just go ahead and pull the steering wheel to make more room. You can buy a steering wheel puller kit at harbor freight for super cheap, or rent one from a local auto parts store. It literally takes about 3 minutes to get the wheel off and it makes a world of difference when working up under a cramped dash. It took a few times of smackin my head on the bottom of the wheel to finally say "fudge it!!!" and pull the wheel. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 25, 2013 Report Posted October 25, 2013 (edited) Got the NOS ammeter tonight. Crawled under the dash to see how easy it will be to replace. I think it would be easier to pull the engine and cut a hole in the firewall to get at that damn gauge! Whats the problem? The amp gauge is right here! The other picture shows the amp gauge in a converible dash behind the top switch.. With out the convertible top switch in the way it's the easiest gauge to replace of the four. Bob Edited October 26, 2013 by Dodgeb4ya Quote
desoto1939 Posted October 25, 2013 Report Posted October 25, 2013 Ok to answer your question the Ammeter Autolite Number 11236A is used from 1946 - 1948 on all the chrysler 6 and 8 cylinder cars. This information was taken from my master Autolite catalog that goes from 38-51. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com Quote
wdoland Posted October 25, 2013 Author Report Posted October 25, 2013 I'm going to climb under there this weekend. It really doesn't look that bad after I remove the aftermarket temp. gauge the p.o. put under the dash right below the amp gauge. The wires under there hardly move at all (from age) so I might be replacing some of those too. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted October 26, 2013 Report Posted October 26, 2013 Tough to replace thick amp wires under the dash! Be careful with them if you can. Quote
Dave72dt Posted October 26, 2013 Report Posted October 26, 2013 Disconnect the battery before you start wrenching on the wires Quote
Solution wdoland Posted October 26, 2013 Author Solution Report Posted October 26, 2013 (edited) Well I got the new ammeter in and it only took an hour and a half. Please excuse any misspellings or typo's because I can't raise my head to see the screen due to the kink in my neck. Also my fingers are all cramped up. Had to change the face of the gauge because mine is black and the one I got on ebay was brown. Took the glass off. took the screws out and took the back of the dial off. My original on was all rusty from water but I couldn't see where water had gotten into the cluster. Oh, well. Trying to put the dial back on with the little magnet and the needle was a challenge. Didn't realize how much my hands shake. Put a small pin in the one hole to try to hold it in place while I had tweezers holding the other sides screw. Got them in. Cleaned the glass face plate and carefully put it on hoping I don't break the little tabs that hold the glass. Whew! Back out to the car. Worked the new gauge into it's spot and held it with my hand while I crawled out to see if it was in right. I put the wrong glass dial on! It's yellowish and my gauges are white. Son of a .... Back in the house. take it apart, put the other glass dial on, back in the garage and got it in but not screwed down. Can't find the one (the other was missing) screw. It fell somewhere and for the life of me, I can't find it. So I take a screw out of the fuel gauge because that has two. Had to put Elmer's glue on the screw to hold it to the screwdriver but I got it in. Hook up the battery, turn the key, hit the starter and IT WORKS!!! Now I'm so proud of myself until I look at my previously working fuel gauge and it's not working. Son of a .... I guess there's two screws holding them in place for a reason. Off to the hardware store I go with on of the screws in hand...it's gonna be a long day. Edited October 26, 2013 by wdoland Quote
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