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Posted

When I have to work under the dash, I lay an old sleeping bag or two on the floor, remove the seat, and get a pillow. Then I can literally lay down on the floor and with the pillow can work without having to hold my head up. But then i have a three on the tree, with a floor shift under the dash would be out of the question for my old body.

 

I'm long past 58 and don't even remember 41. Wow 41 was back in 1979, LBJ then Nixon were presidents: Nam, gas shortages, men on the moon,  a few Datsum and Toyota / Tonka pickups were around and 8 track tape decks.

  • Like 1
Posted

. . . I'm long past 58 and don't even remember 41. Wow 41 was back in 1979, LBJ then Nixon were presidents: Nam, gas shortages, men on the moon,  a few Datsum and Toyota / Tonka pickups were around and 8 track tape decks.

If you remember LBJ and Nixon as presidents in '79 then you have quite a different memory than I. Maybe you are remembering 1969. Except I think the first gas shortage was in '73.

Posted

We'll we got all the drums off

Puller did the trick

Looking at the condition of the drums and shoe' s, this may indeed be a 30,000 mile truck.

As read on the odometer.

Yep that's a good idea I will end up putting a modern rear end in the truck

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Posted

How'd ya get 'em off Justin  - use a puller? Looks like they're in pretty good condition. I was going to suggest that you don't pound on them too hard as you might knock them out of shape, but you work quicker than that by the looks of it! I hope that the rest of the project goes so well.

Might need to drop the size of your photos down just a bit.

Posted

That's the same condition as the rear end in my 49 truck. Was going to reuse it, until I started pricing cylinders, shoes, seals, etc. I'll spend the $12 on new spring perches and use my spare Ranger axle. If I get ambitious, will use the Ranger 5 speed instead of the original top loader 3 speed, have to up the fuel economy quite a bit. Last time I drove it (1994) it was in the low teens area, needs at least 20 something to not go back to permanently being used as yard art or a storage bin in the barn. And I'm fine with barning it, my VW Super Beetle could use some 4 wheeled company occasionally, but I'd prefer to drive it (no EFI, no fuel infection, no computer... I loathe modern vehicles).

Posted

If the wheel cylinder sets from Rock Auto are the $9 Chinese garbage that I was sent, keeping it stock isn't worth it. Iopened the package, sent the entire order right back with a very nasty letter to the company. I will not use parts made in China or India, the quality control is a farce. Electrical switches that last for one use, wheel cylinders that leak from the word go, $100/each brake drums that are scrap iron in under 3000 miles, porous master cylinder castings with warped lids... and most of that was from NAPA.

Posted (edited)

If the wheel cylinder sets from Rock Auto are the $9 Chinese garbage that I was sent, keeping it stock isn't worth it. Iopened the package, sent the entire order right back with a very nasty letter to the company. I will not use parts made in China or India, the quality control is a farce. Electrical switches that last for one use, wheel cylinders that leak from the word go, $100/each brake drums that are scrap iron in under 3000 miles, porous master cylinder castings with warped lids... and most of that was from NAPA.

 

Haven't had that experience ( yet?). 

Doesn't matter whether I'm buying from Rock Auto or my local Mom & Pops:  if I'm buying brakes, I try to get Raybestos, Bendix, or Wagner if at all possible. 

 

I'm not interested in "gyp parts" ( as Old Henry used to call them) from the third world.

 

 

My greater point is "they're only original once".  I get fidgety every time someone's found an old survivor, and already has it "dropped, flopped, and re-powered" before it's even tied-down on the trailer to come home.

 

Just my opinion,  I think folks should give the old stocker a chance... 

 

:cool:

Edited by De Soto Frank
Posted

With a top speed of 53 mph, I'd get killed in mine before I got to the end of our farm's road frontage. 45 mph road, and if you can't do at least 65, you'll get run into. Absolutely zero traffic enforcement where I live, if it isn't a crash with injuries or several thousand dollars in damage, there isn't even a police report filed. Standard operating procedure in Shelby County TN. My house is on the county line, so both sheriff's departments try to turf everything to the State officers, who have far higher priority roads than our little twisty 2 lane (barely) cow path.

 

My smallblock powered 69 D100 will likely never see the pavement again. Tops out at 60 indicated. Has 4 wheel drums, armstrong steering and a 727 slushomatic. Too slow off the line, too slow on the top end. Even with a fresh front end and all new brakes, it can't compete in the demolition derby known as the Interstate 240 loop around the city, let alone the surface streets.

 

The 49 low rider truck will never see the road in this county. I'll take it to a couple other nearby counties the days I want to drive it.

Posted

With a top speed of 53 mph, I'd get killed in mine before I got to the end of our farm's road frontage. 45 mph road, and if you can't do at least 65, you'll get run into. Absolutely zero traffic enforcement where I live, if it isn't a crash with injuries or several thousand dollars in damage, there isn't even a police report filed. Standard operating procedure in Shelby County TN. My house is on the county line, so both sheriff's departments try to turf everything to the State officers, who have far higher priority roads than our little twisty 2 lane (barely) cow path.

 

My smallblock powered 69 D100 will likely never see the pavement again. Tops out at 60 indicated. Has 4 wheel drums, armstrong steering and a 727 slushomatic. Too slow off the line, too slow on the top end. Even with a fresh front end and all new brakes, it can't compete in the demolition derby known as the Interstate 240 loop around the city, let alone the surface streets.

 

The 49 low rider truck will never see the road in this county. I'll take it to a couple other nearby counties the days I want to drive it.

But based on this I'd have to say that drivers in California are more forgiving of old vehicles moving slowly than yours. Didn't notice any issues while I had the car in Arizona last spring either. Nor in Oregon the other year.

  • Like 1
Posted

But based on this I'd have to say that drivers in California are more forgiving of old vehicles moving slowly than yours. Didn't notice any issues while I had the car in Arizona last spring either. Nor in Oregon the other year.

Once on a recent road trip we were crusing along a freeway leagally in the HOV lane. We were going faster than the non HOV lanes but there was a gap of several hundred feet between us and the car ahead of us. A really nice driver started to tailgate us very closely guestering with his hands, arms, and fingers suggesting that we should get out of his way as he was in a great big hurry to pass and start tailgaiting the car that was several hundred feet in front of us. Soon he found what he thought was a good place to pass us and did so in what I believe to be a non safe manor still flailing his long finger as he swerved in and out of traffic. In less than a half mile he caught the car in front of us that was at a dead stop as traffic was backed up. We switched lanes as our exit was coming up and soon passed this really nice driver naturally giving him a horn toot and frendly wave as we went by him.

  • Like 2
Posted

Once on a recent road trip we were crusing along a freeway leagally in the HOV lane. We were going faster than the non HOV lanes but there was a gap of several hundred feet between us and the car ahead of us. A really nice driver started to tailgate us very closely guestering with his hands, arms, and fingers suggesting that we should get out of his way as he was in a great big hurry to pass and start tailgaiting the car that was several hundred feet in front of us. Soon he found what he thought was a good place to pass us and did so in what I believe to be a non safe manor still flailing his long finger as he swerved in and out of traffic. In less than a half mile he caught the car in front of us that was at a dead stop as traffic was backed up. We switched lanes as our exit was coming up and soon passed this really nice driver naturally giving him a horn toot and frendly wave as we went by him.

HOV lanes are a different animal. Even when in a modern car I find people acting as you describe.

 

When I'm in the old car on a freeway I am nearly always in the right hand lane. Coming back from Arizona in "horse returning to stable mode" I did my previously unthinkable: Drove I-5 up the central valley. Or maybe that should be "Central Valley", not sure if it should be capitalized. Speed limit there is 70 with nearly every non-semi doing at least 75. Still it seemed that my 60 MPH (or so) speed did not faze people. I will admit to keeping a close eye on the rear view mirror though.

 

It does seem there are times an places you should not be driving an old and slow vehicle. At least you need to be careful with a Model T (probably 35 MPH maximum cruising speed) on some Texas highways. http://www.ktre.com/story/23605098/two-vehicle-wreck-shuts-down-southbound-traffic-on-us-69-near-wells?app&hpt=us_bn8

Posted

inner city work -a-day traffic can be brutal to any driver in any car at almost any time..I like these guys in front of me and give them every change to speed on..they run interference real well...kinda like having a personal line blocker..

Posted (edited)

Being stuck in the Middle of a 7 day stretch of the Midnight shift, And working on some Tig Welding side work...

I haven't had any time to work on the 48!

Guys if this was your project what would you start with first ??

Here are my Plans for the truck again.

  • Mopar 318 with a four barrel Carb & Auto tranny (Still need to find a Motor and Trans)
  • Have front Axle stretched (4" drop")
  • disc brake conversion up front, with Power brakes.
  • Modern rear Axle, mounted on top of the Leafs. C-Notch the Frame.
  • Rust repair/Patch Panels for anything larger than a Golf Ball.
  • Reinforce/rework front Cab Body Mounts. (Some rot in the Driver side in Particular.)
  • Update wiring system.
  • Clear coat original paint.
Here are pics of the mounts

Is it possible to find this driver side floor board Panel ?

Anyone have one for sale ?

Thanks for all your support thus far !

Justin

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Edited by Silo-rodncycle
Posted

If it were mine: disc brakes, 3:43 rear axle or close to that, remove one leaf spring, EZ wiring, fine tune the flathead, weat sand the body with 800/1000 grit, rims and tires and I would enjoy the truck for a year or two while I gathered all the other parts. You might be very surprised at how nice a truck you have and you would save a TON of work and a LOT of money. JMHO

Posted

I'm not a particular fan of most patina and definitely not a fan of rust, even those smaller than a golf ball in size.  Clear coat on the outside will not protect those areas where moisture, fog and other condensation can get to already deteriorated spots. I'd fix them all or none.  The sb and trans will require a firewall notch so while you're fabricating that, the floor pans should be a cinch.  Check your proportions before you decide to drop it; it may turn out looking a bit goofy if you do, at least it would to me..  Check the frame arc over the rear wheels.  That arc comes right up to the floor boards and a heavy c notch will get into the floor itself.

Posted (edited)

Wow, I thought my truck's frame was crusty... All I had to do was hit it with a wire brush and it was smooth and ready for paint. You'd best plan on boxing in the whole thing, that's getting a bit thin.

The frame is pretty solid Actually...

I just has a weird tan scales ? Not much pitting to note of

A wire brush seems to take care of it

Anyone come across this tan scaly rust . There are some stalagmites show up on the body

Justin

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Edited by Silo-rodncycle

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