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C-Clips Holding The Brake And Clutch Pedals On Shaft


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Posted

Hello! First post here. Owner of a 47 Dodge Deluxe. Am replacing the master cylinder with a new one. Have to remove the brake and clutch pedals off the shaft of the master cylinder. How remove these clips? They look like they were crimped on and not a spring clip with little holes to spring-em open. Do I just destroy them off and replace with new (where get new)?

Thanks!

Posted (edited)

They come right off using a 13/16" open end wrench and a hammer. Put the open end of the wrench right up to the open ends of the horseshoe clip. Couple careful whacks and they come off easy.

Bob

Edited by Dodgeb4ya
Posted

Thanks Guys! I got them off!

 

Now, as my new Master Cylinder has not yet arrived I'm now wondering if I'll need to press off the brake/clutch pedals shaft from the old cylinder to re-press it on the new one!?

 

Appreciate your input!

 

 

Posted

Thanks Again! 

 

NOW, I have more questions. What are the two little screens on the back of the fluid drive bell housing? What can I use if I don't have a magnetic socket to remove the fluid drive tank inside the bell housing? ALSO, how does one drain the fluid drive fluid (it has been in there for probably 40 years)??

 

Thanks Guys. You are life-savers! We'll get her running again!

Posted

Screens are vents.

 

Drain by removing threaded plug, then rotate and spill it out the bottom.

 

Why do you want to drain it ?

Posted (edited)

 

 

What can I use if I don't have a magnetic socket to remove the fluid drive tank inside the bell housing?

 

 

 

Not sure what you mean about the magnetic socket to remover the "tank". Magnetic socket would be handy for the drain plug so that you do not drop it.

 

If up want to remove the fluid coupling itself you would need a long thin box/open wrench to remove the 8 (I think its 8) nuts that hold it in place.

 

Edit: add pic

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Edited by shel_bizzy_48
Posted

I wouldn't change the fluid. Just top it off if required. You need a factory shop manual to learn all the repairs for your car.

Posted

Thanks guys, AGAIN, for all the helpful info. I do have the vintage shop manual. It is just as brief then as the new ones written now. 

 

I just figured if it is original fluid, that maybe it needed changing. I'll check the level though. If it is dirty looking (check by putting my finger in it?), I'll change. 

 

What type fluid is it? Typical Auto Transmission Fluid? 

 

I got Grandpa's 47 Dodge Deluxe in 1995. He got it from his Dad back in 50. Grandpa didn't do much servicing of it (did change the oil and I started helping with that in 85), but it didn't get driven much since I came in the picture (I'm the son-in-law). Car only has 62K. Car has sat a lot. I'm going through all major systems just to check and ensure not needing attention.

 

Thanks for all your input!

Posted (edited)

Sealed unit. Probably will not get dirty.

 

There has been some past discussion about changing the fluid as it may lose whatever ability it has to transfer motion. Your call on that.

 

There was a very good thread by James Douglas with his research into a suitable replacement fluid. He uses his car as a daily driver, and is looking for optimal performance from his vehicle.

 

EDIT: a search for that thread is beyond my abilities. Search seems to now be limited to 1 year.

 

The preferred replacement seems to be a hydraulic oil.  ISO 32

 

The oil has the viscosity of 10W (non-detergent) motor oil.  10W oil was suggested to me by Chrysler Historical.

 

The last 2 pages of this thread talk a bit about sources for ISO 32

 

http://p15-d24.com/topic/33644-input-shaft-needed/page-3

Edited by shel_bizzy_48
Posted

If you can find out what is the proper socket size to use on the nut then go to a dollar store and then llok for round magnets.

Then take your spare socket and i would suggest that you get a cheap socket and then glue inthe magent to the bottom inside of the socket and build up the depth until you know that the bolt head will then touch the magnet in the socket then when you take out the bolt it wil then be attached to the magnet in the socket.

 

So this would be one of those special made tools only to be used for this purpose.  Sometime you have to invent the tool from a mordenr tool to meet your needs.  Yes Miller tools made a socket that had a magnetise capability but that is just what they did.

 

Rich HArtung

I will look in  my Miller tool cat to post a picture of the appropriate tool and its corresponding Miller tool number.

 

Rich HArtung

Desoto1939@aol.com

Posted

3/4" socket.

 

You can just shim your socket with a piece of paper or two for a snug fit.

 

It isn't really all that hard to get out. The magnetic socket is suggested to reduce the possibility of it falling down inside where it takes some work to get at it. I dropped one when getting my set up cleaned up to swap in. I just plugged the hole to prevent spills until I got around to removing the bottom cover to clean things up there.

 

There is plenty of room to get your fingers on the plug once you loosen it.

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Posted

Why not just stuff a rag in to pevent the plug from falling down?

  • Like 1
Posted

Another option if they are still made. I have a set by craftsman of magnets that you can slip into a socket. You can see them in the little yellow pouch.

IMAG0115.jpg

Posted

Why not just stuff a rag in to pevent the plug from falling down?

 

 

exactly..cheaper than special sockets, magnets and the what not...

 

 

You are assuming that all home shops are equipped with both a rag and a set of tools.

Posted

I don't take anyone seriously that doesn't have at least 3 sets of screwdrivers.  The A list qualifier is how many torque wrenches you have; I've currently got 4, thinking about a fifth  ........

 

Marty

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