flathead Posted August 3, 2013 Report Share Posted August 3, 2013 (edited) I took my '48 B1B up the road the other night, to test out the new fuel tank I installed. I had gone about 1/2 mile and was going slow in 2nd gear when the rear axle locked and stalled the engine. I could drive backwards for a couple feet, then it would again lock. And I could go forward with the same results. Every once in a while it would go a few feet then lock. I finally walked home and loaded the car hauler to bring it home. Once there, the truck rolled off the trailer a few feet, then locked. I remove the drums to see if something was wrong with the brakes, they were fine. While up on blocks with the wheels removed, I started the engine and put into 1st gear. It ran for quite some time and then locked & stalled. Tried the same thing in reverse and achieved the same results. Any suggestions? Edited August 3, 2013 by flathead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 Sounds like a catastrophic failure with your differential. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MBF Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 I had a similar problem with an IH KB-7. The problem turned out to be the emergency brake was not fully releasing on the driveshaft. The owner sold it very cheap, and much to my surprise....... it was a simple fix. Are there any noises in the rear while running? When it locks up can you still turn 1 wheel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flathead Posted August 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 I removed all the nuts from the 3rd member, removed the yoke, and notice massive play on the end of the pinion. Remove the oil seal, then the bearing. The bearing seems okay, there must be another bearing at the other end of the pinion. I believe that's the source of the problem. I do not know how to remove the axles so I can pull the 3rd member; anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Coatney Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 Do you have a service manual for your truck? If not you should get one as well as a parts manual. The manual should give you disassembly procedures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 remove the drums, remove the backing plates/retainer...pull axles..note the shims and protect the for reuse on install..axles moved out a few inches each side and the hog head is cleared for removal you should have a shop manual for this operation..the adjustments are critical on the third member.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scruffy49 Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 Too bad you are so far away. My truck came with me from WA to TN a couple years ago, I'd have given you the factory rear end. I'm swapping to a modern rear axle assembly. It is still under the truck, haven't had time/money/ambition to pull my donor axle and do the swap. Maybe Kevin down in Vancouver has a spare he'd let go reasonably... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B1B Keven Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 Maybe Kevin down in Vancouver has a spare he'd let go reasonably... I don't, but I know where some are. Springfield Auto Recyclers 750 S 28th St, Springfield, OR (541) 747-9601 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41/53dodges Posted August 4, 2013 Report Share Posted August 4, 2013 If all else fails the cherokee axle swap is a great option, plus more economical in some cases Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buds54dodge Posted August 6, 2013 Report Share Posted August 6, 2013 I had a similar problem, the pin was coming out that held the spider gears and would hit the pinion and lock up. then you could back up a bit and it would lock up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flathead Posted August 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2013 Do you have a service manual for your truck? If not you should get one as well as a parts manual. The manual should give you disassembly procedures. I do not have a manual yet. But everything I read says to "slide the axles out" - but how? remove the drums, remove the backing plates/retainer...pull axles..note the shims and protect the for reuse on install..axles moved out a few inches each side and the hog head is cleared for removal you should have a shop manual for this operation..the adjustments are critical on the third member.. I have done all of the above, but what is holding the axles in? Too bad you are so far away. My truck came with me from WA to TN a couple years ago, I'd have given you the factory rear end. I'm swapping to a modern rear axle assembly. It is still under the truck, haven't had time/money/ambition to pull my donor axle and do the swap. Maybe Kevin down in Vancouver has a spare he'd let go reasonably... Thanks, I appreciate your generosity If all else fails the cherokee axle swap is a great option, plus more economical in some cases. I am seriously considering this as an option Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
41/53dodges Posted August 6, 2013 Report Share Posted August 6, 2013 Sent you a private message Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 6, 2013 Report Share Posted August 6, 2013 (edited) once the retainers are off..the axle could still be a bit snug in the housing..a slide hammer will be of use now..they will pop out with a couple good bangs on the average..they DO NOT use c- clip internally... Edited August 6, 2013 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted August 6, 2013 Report Share Posted August 6, 2013 If you don't have a slide hammer, a short piece of pipe, or some other spacer, between the drum and the axle end plate can be used to create a make-shift puller. (I've even used a few deep sockets over the studs) The pipe/spacer should be large enough to go around the outside of the bearing and just long enough so that when the drum is placed back onto the shaft, you can get the nut started but the drum isn't seating onto the taper. As you tighten the axle nut you will pull the shaft out of the axle. When you get to the point where the drum begins to seat into the shaft taper, pull the drum again and extend your spacer. Or at that point you may be able to pull the axle out anyway. Merle 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flathead Posted August 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 So once the brake back plate is removed, the axles basically have nothing holding them back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 I have installed the drum on the axle shaft and put the axle nut on 4-5 turns and used the drum as a slide hammer to remove axles in the boneyards when no puller was available. Crude but works at times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TodFitch Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 I have installed the drum on the axle shaft and put the axle nut on 4-5 turns and used the drum as a slide hammer to remove axles in the boneyards when no puller was available. Crude but works at times. That is how I got mine out when I was rebuilding everything. No need for a special purpose tool for single use. So once the brake back plate is removed, the axles basically have nothing holding them back? That is true on my '33 and it seems pretty standard for Chrysler product cars for a lot of years. Trucks with full floating axles are different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 So once the brake back plate is removed, the axles basically have nothing holding them back? The bearing cup is a slight press fit into the axle housing, so depending on how tight the fit is will determine how hard they are to pull out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted August 8, 2013 Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 Some pics of what the axle looks like with out backing plate and drum on and a couple different ways of pulling the axle shaft . Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flathead Posted August 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 I had a similar problem, the pin was coming out that held the spider gears and would hit the pinion and lock up. then you could back up a bit and it would lock up. That very well could be it. Once I figure out how the axles come out, I'll know immediately! I had a similar problem, the pin was coming out that held the spider gears and would hit the pinion and lock up. then you could back up a bit and it would lock up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flathead Posted August 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 Okay then, tomorrow I will give it a try! Thanks all, I will keep you posted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flathead Posted August 8, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 Hey you're not too far from me! Some pics of what the axle looks like with out backing plate and drum on and a couple different ways of pulling the axle shaft . Bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodgeb4ya Posted August 8, 2013 Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 OMG.... I finally have a new MoPar friend! Your'e 25 miles away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flathead Posted August 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2013 Okay so I've decided to replace the rear axle with one from a Cherokee. Any thoughts on what a good ratio would be? The one I was running was 3.90 and the engine was screaming at anything over 40. Can't go too high, as the stock 218 won't pull a tall axle. Thoughts? Ideas? Input? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted August 10, 2013 Report Share Posted August 10, 2013 (edited) Okay so I've decided to replace the rear axle with one from a Cherokee. Any thoughts on what a good ratio would be? The one I was running was 3.90 and the engine was screaming at anything over 40. Can't go too high, as the stock 218 won't pull a tall axle. Thoughts? Ideas? Input? with the above thought on lower ratio..then obviously you also know what higher gear would be sufficient... I will add a note here....I am not flaming anyone here...just continue your line of thinking in the other direction.... Edited August 10, 2013 by Plymouthy Adams Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.